The following list, of Israeli wines that I tasted during 2006, includes primarily wines that were released during the past twelve months. It also includes, however, several wines that are scheduled for release within the next four-six weeks. Considering that this is a list of “the best”, the cut-off for entry was that the wines earn a minimum of 90 points. The list does not include barrel or long-range advance tastings and within each score category, wines are arranged alphabetical order by the names of the producers.

With special regard to scores: As I have said and written lately, some say that I tend to score Israeli wines somewhat on the high side. This year, after a good deal of reflection on this issue, I will present a minor hypothesis - that to the effect that as my scores hold fairly constant over time, the scores awarded to Israeli wines by others both within and outside of Israel will rise over the next two-three years. In other words, as ego-resounding as it may sound, but to put it in as light a way as possible, I am proposing that I am right and others have been rather consistently under-rating Israeli wines. Of course hypotheses, which are in their little more than predictions, are open to the foibles of the future. Personally, I'm willing to wait and see.

I am sure that I have missed one or more wines that deserve to be included on this list so if anyone can point out an Israeli wine to which I have awarded a score of 90 or higher during 2006 and that is missing on this list,, please let me know by email or IM.

Best

Rogov

3. Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, Israel, 2003: Deep garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with generous soft tannins that coat the mouth nicely, and, after 18 months in oak a surprisingly gentle spicy and vanilla oak influence. Opens with blackberries and black cherries, those moving to blackcurrants, hints of Oriental spices and, on the long finish a hint of dark chocolate. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2008-2014. Score 93. K

4. Margalit, Enigma, 2004: A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc and 19% Merlot. A Bordeaux blend but with the clear Margalit signature, with generous but near-sweet soft tannins and a moderate hand with the wood, and even now showing dark purple plum and currant fruits, those matched nicely by spices and a hint of red licorice that creeps in on the long finish. Best 2008–2012. Score 93.

5. Yatir, Ya'ar Yatir, Israel, 2003: A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot reflecting its 12 month in small oak barrels with gently spicy and lightly dusty wood and showing fine balance between tannins, wood and acidity. Well focused and on the palate light herbal and white pepper traits underlying rich blueberry, plum and blackcurrant fruits. Long and elegant. Enjoyable now but best 2008–2012. Score 93. K

Wines Earning 92 Points

6. Bustan, Syrah, 2003: Aromatic enough to be thought of as perfumed, this full-bodied, chewy and rich wine offers up flavors of blackberries, currants, and boysenberry jam, those showing tempting hints of pepper, wet earth and just a hint of grilled meat. Deep and intense, with a long, complex finish. Approachable now but best 2008-2012. Score 92. K

7. Castel, Petit Castel, Israel, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied and with soft tannins, this caressing red opens with a chocolate and berry-rich nose, those carrying over to the palate and joined by cassis, black cherries, dark plums and black pepper, all lingering gently on a long, polished and round finish. Elegant and supple. Drink now-2011. Score 92. K

8. Castel, Chardonnay "C", Israel, 2004: Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied with generous but intentionally subdued influences of the wood. Deeply aromatic with tempting citrus, melon, pear and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, those coming to a creamy and long finish. Best 2007-2009. Score 92. K

9. Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2004: A blend of Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc (89%, 6% and 5% respectivey), aged in oak for 13 months, this medium-dark garnet wine shows near-sweet tannins and a light earthy minerality, those supporting generous red currant, berry and cherry aromas and flavors. On the long finish hints of sage and anise to tantalize. Best 2008-2012. Score 92.

10. Chateau Golan, Eliad, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: A blend this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (70%, 21%, 3% and 6% respectively), this may be the most intense wine released to date by the winery. Dark garnet in color, ripe and complex, showing deep plum, berry, floral, coffee, peppery and earthy aromas and flavors all coming together beautifully in a long and graceful finish. Best 2008–2012. Score 92.

11. Clos de Gat, Merlot, 2003: A dense, muscular wine that needs time to settle down and for its elements to integrate but one promising to be deep, dark and absolutely beautiful. Complex oak-accented blackberry, currant and black cherry aromas and flavors on a background of chewy tannins, sweet cedar, and hints of pepper and vanilla, all of which linger beautifully. A wine that begs for cellaring! Best from 2008 – 2012 and perhaps as long as 2015. Score 92.

12. Clos de Gat, 2003: Full-bodied, showing still firm tannins but with those now integrating nicely this oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot (66%, 30% and 4% respectively) opens to reveal generous blackcurrant, black cherry and berry fruits, those on a spicy and vanilla tinted background. Good balance and with structure that bodes well for a harmonious and elegant future. Drink now-2012. Score 92.

13. Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2004: Oak-aged for 12 months, full-bodied, ripe, floral and creamy but with pleasing acidity and spiciness, this intense and opulent wine shows appealing layers of pear, green apple and figs, all with a hint of ginger that tantalizes. Long and generous. Drink now-2008. Score 92.

14. Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2004: Perhaps somewhat of an oxymoron, but this is indeed an "elegant blockbuster". Made entirely from Merlot grapes, full bodied and tannic, but don't let that hold you back because this one needs time for its elements to come fully together. On first attack spicy wood reflecting 16 months in oak, that opening slowly to reveal firm, mouth coating tannins and finally that giving way to show a tempting array of currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those backed up nicely by spices and on the long finish a hint of crème Anglaise. Approachable now but best from 2008-2012. Score 92.

15. Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Katzrin, Israel, 2003: Rich, ripe, concentrated and complex with generous layers of figs, tangerines, summer fruits and hazelnuts. Generous but not imposing oak on the finish makes it especially elegant as does a hint of butterscotch that comes in on the long finish. Drink now–2010. Score 92. K

16. Golan Heights Winery, Noble Semillon, Botrytis, Yarden, Israel, 2004: Golden in color, with fine concentration and balance and developing deep honeyed spices. On the nose and palate dried apricots, orange peel, toasty oak, and tropical fruits that come in towards the long caressing finish. Drink from release–2018. Score 92. K

17. Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark garnet towards royal purple with orange reflections, this well-balanced, medium to full-bodied wine is showing generous currant and berry fruits, those matched nicely by spicy wood, dark chocolate and espresso coffee. Long and luxurious. Best 2008–2012. Score 92.

18. Recanati, Special Reserve, Israel, 2003: A blend of grapes from vineyards in the northern Galilee, this deep, broad, gently tannic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot combines Cabernet currants, cassis and spicy-herbal overtones with typical Merlot softness. Good balance between wood, tannins and fruit and a long finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 92. K

19. Saslove, Adom, Marriage, 2003: Aged in a variety of oak barrels, fermented with different yeasts, this full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah (60%, 37% and 35 respectively) is one of Saslove's most complex and best efforts to date. Full-bodied and tannic but simultaneously soft, round and elegant, on the nose and palate a basic blackcurrant personality but that matched by a generous array of berry, black cherry, and spices, all lingering nicely on a long and fruity finish. Drink now-2011. Score 92.

20. Sea Horse, Elul, 2003: This well-balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petite Sirah (85%, 10% and 5% respectively) is already showing a rich and quiet elegance. Ripe black chery, currant and berry fruits are overlayed nicely by gentle hints of anise, spicy oak and a light earthiness, all of which come to a long and generous finish. Surprisingly approachable now but best from 2007-2012. Score 92.

Wines Earning 91 Points

21. Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Full-bodied and solid but soft enough to be thought of as caressing, with generous blackberry, plum, cherry, mineral and cocoa notes set off by vanilla and creamy oak. Forward but not vulgar and with structure and balance that bode well for its future. Drink now–2011. Score 91.

22. Barkan, Superieur, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Dark, almost impenetrable royal purple, firm, concentrated, one of the best ever from Barkan. Full-bodied, with soft, gently mouthcoating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy oak, showing intense aromas and flavors of black currants, blackberries and black cherries, those complemented nicely by hints of dates, sage and near-sweet cedar wood. A long finish with a burst of minerals and black fruits. Drink now-2012. Score 91. K

23. Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Altitude +720, 2003: Made from grapes from the Har Godrim vineyard near the Lebanese border and aged for 12 months in primarily French oak casks. Full-bodied, concentrated, and deep royal-purple in color, with firm tannins that are integrating nicely, Showing red currants and purple plums on a tantalizing earthy-herbal background. Best 2008–2012. Score 91. K

24. Ben-Hanna, Single-Humped Merlot, 2004: If the name of this one doesn't make you smile, nothing will, but no fear, all becomes clear when you see the picture of a camel on the label. Based largely on grapes from the Negev, made almost entirely for export to the United States, this is a frankly beautiful wine. Soft, round and generous with blueberry, blackberry and currant notes along with hints of mint and sweet herbs, all coming together harmoniously. Perhaps the best yet from this winery. Drink now-2008. Score 91.

25. Carmel, Merlot, Single Vineyard, Ben Zimra, Israel, 2004: Garnet towards royal purple in color, ripe, round and polished, and showing fine balance and focus to highlight its dark plum, blueberry and dusky spice flavors. Finishes with hints of oak and red bell peppers. Long and generous. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K

26. Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Israel, 2004: Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. Full-bodied, intense and concentrated, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing layer after layer of spicy oak, smoked meat and tar, those highlighting red berries, black cherries and licorice. Best 2008-2015. Score 91. K

27. Carmel, Cabernet Sauvigon, Single Vineyard, Zarit, Israel, 2004: Deep garnet towards royal purple, reflecting its 15 months in oak with judicious oak, solid tannins that are integrating nicely and finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Opens with currants and dusty oak, those going to spices and blackberries, and from first sip to last hints of vanilla, freshly cut tobacco leaves and a hint of mint Long and generous. Drinking nicely now but best 2008-2011. Score 91. K

28. Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2004 Aged in oak for 15 months, dark, almost impenetrable purple in color, with generous firm tannins and smoky wood both needing time to come together with currant, blackberry, plum and mineral aromas and flavors, those showing hints of Mediterranean herbs and light Oriental spices. Long and generous. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. K

29. Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Single Vineyard, Sha'al, Israel, 2005: As at past tastings, continuing to show medium- to full-bodied, generous sweetness and fine balancing acidity along with traditional Gewurztraminer litchis and spiciness, those matched by peach and nectarine fruits and, on the long finish hints of rosewater and honey. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K

30. Chateau Golan, Geshem, Royal Reserve, 2004: A new blend from the winery, this of 62% Syrah and 38% Grenache. Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, ripe tannins integrating nicely and showing currant and berry fruits, those matched nicely by spices, freshly crushed herbs and, as the wine sits on the palate hints of orange peel and black tea. A long super-fruity finish here. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2008-2010.NIS 185. Score 91.

31. Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2004: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Franc, aged in French and American oak for 12 months, medium- to full-bodied, with tannins and lightly smoky wood integrating nicely to highlight blackberry, currant and purple plum fruits, those opening to hints of strawberries and spices. Best 2008-2012. NIS 136. Score 91.

32. Clos de Gat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Har'El, 2003: Showing better than at earlier tastings, this medium- to full-bodied oak-aged blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, shows spoft tannic wine that highlight generous raspberry, ripe cherry and blackcurrant fruits, those matched nicely by moderate oak and a hint of anise. Surprisingly complex and inviting for a second wine. Drink now–2007. Score 91.

33. Clos de Gat, Syrah, Har'El, 2003: Deep ruby colored, this blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, shows generous peppery overtones that call to mind Australian Syrah. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm but nicely integrating tannins and complex plum, red berry and earthy aromas and flavors, all with a hint of leather on the finish. Drink now-2009. Score 91.

34. Clos de Gat, Syrah, Har'El, 2004: Dark garnet red in color, this medium to full-bodied blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon shows soft, well integrating tannins and tempting black plum and cassis aromas and flavors set off nicely by hints of spices and fresh herbs. Long and elegant. Drink now–2009. Score 91.

35. Dalton, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium-to full-bodied with a layer of spicy and toasty wood to show for its 18 months in oak, but that, moderately-soft tannins and acidity coming together nicely in balance and structure. On the nose and palate blackberries, currants and a hint of purple plums, those complemented nicely by hints of spices and on the long finish lightly minted dark chocolate. Best from 2008-2012. Score 91. K

36. Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Vineyard's Choice, Israel, 2003: Deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with ripe, rich and complex fruits showing true harmony and finesse. Abundant layers of currants, juicy cherries and tempting oak shadings. Soft, supple and well-balanced tannins promise for a wine that although ready for early drinking should cellar very nicely. Drink now-2011. Score 91 K

37. Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2004: Garnet towards inky black, medium to full-bodied with austere tannins and reflecting its 12 months in oak with appealing vanilla and cinnamon, lead pencil, cherry, currant and wild berry fruits, Opens slowly on the palate but when it does, long and lovely with generous but well-tempered doses of smoke and tobacco. Drink now–2009. Score 91. K

38. Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Deep garnet towards black in color, full-bodied, with once almost searing tannins now integrating nicely. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with 12% of Merlot, reflecting its 18 months in barriques with spicy wood and tannins in fine balance with natural acidity and generous currant, plum, blackberry fruits. On the long finish hints of mint and spices. Drink now-2011. Score 91.

39. Galil Mountain, Sauvignon Blanc, Israel, 2005: Delicious! Medium-bodied, pale greenish yellow, with a generous citrus nose and on the palate passion fruit, flinty minerals and the hint of an English rose garden after a summer shower. Crisp, lively and elegant. Drink now-2008. Score 91. K

40. Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, Israel, 2003: Dark cherry towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and an undercurrent of spicy oak, and showing a tempting array of blackberry, black cherry and cassis fruits, those with a long floral and light mineral-earthy finish. Drink now-2012. Score 91. K

41. Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, Yarden, Israel. 2004: Rich and complex, full-bodied and creamy, with ripe apricot, citrus and pear fruits backed up nicely by an appealing spicy note. Generous but not offensive oak here. Drink now–2009. Score 91.

42. Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, Israel, 2004: Round, ripe and lightly floral, aged partly in oak, partly in stainless steel, with the classic litchi, apricot and lime aromas and flavors of the variety, those set off nicely by hints of coconut, a gentle spiciness and just the right amount of acidity to add liveliness and balance. Harmonious, long, and complex. Drink now. Score 91. K

43. Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2003: Dark garnet towards black, full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely, those balanced nicely by spicy wood and blackcurrant, blackberry and cassis fruits all on a background of minty-chocolate. Long and complex. Best 2007–2010. Score 91.

44. Kadita, Shiraz, 2004: Rich, ripe and generous, full-bodied, with generous but refined tannins. On the nose and palate plum, blueberry, black cherry and gentle spices, all coming together with lively acidity. Flavors that linger on and on in a wine that has both power and grace. The best to date from Kadita. Drink now-2010. Score 91

45. Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2004: Living up to its barrel-tasting promise. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft ner-sweet tannins already integrating nicely with spicy wood, black currant, wild berry and black cherry fruits. Soft, round and long. Approachable early but will show its elegance with a bit of time. Best 2008-2012. Score 91.

46. Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2005: Developed partly in stainless steel, partly sur lie in French and American barriques and showing every bit as temptingly as during barrel tastings a year ago. Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, crisply dry, with lively acidity well balanced by citrus, citrus peel, pineapple and melon fruits, those with a gentle overlay of spicy oak. Promising long elegance. Best from release-2008. Score 91.

47. Margalit, Special Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: A limited edition of 600 bottles, this full-bodied blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Petite Sirah shows fine balance between tannins that are now integrating nicely, hints of sweet oak and generous but subdued blackcurrant, plum and chocolate aromas and flavors. Best 2008–2012. Score 91.

48. Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T-Selection, 2003: Dark, almost impenetrably purple in color, this is a rich, big and juicy wine, absolutely loaded with blackberry and plum fruits, those set off nicely by hints of cloves, coffee, citrus peel and black pepper, all on super-soft tannins. Generous, long and mouthcoating, a harmonious wine that will develop nicely in the bottle. Drink from release-2012. Score 91.

49. Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Blended with 10% of Semillon to round it out, unoaked, as are all of Pelter's white wines, this crisp and refreshing wine offers up bright, vivid and generous aromas and flavors of guava, grapefruit and green apples and, lurking in the background making itself felt almost as an unconscious hint, a hint of celery that keeps appearing through the long finish. Not for long-term cellaring but delicious and enchanting from release. Score 91.

50. Pelter, Semillon, 2003: Partly fermented in stainless steel, and part in barriques for 2 months just to give a hint of the wood. Perhaps the very first truly successful local dry Semillon, with a character of lemony, herbal and pepper aromas and flavors highlighting citrus, pears and green apples, all leading to a long and spicy finish. Approachable and thoroughly enjoyable young but with the definite potential to develop and flesh out with appropriate cellaring. My guess – best from 2008. Score 91.

51. Saslove, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserved, 2003: Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet with purple and orange reflections and fine balance between oak, spices, and firm but nicely integrating tannins. An oak-aged blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot, showing aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries, raspberries. Supple and elegant with a long blackberry and herbal finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 91.

52. Sea Horse, Antoine, Tete de Cuvee, 2004: Made from low yield, organically raised Syrah vines, aged in Burgundy barrels for 16 months, this dark purple towards black wine is plump, rich and well balanced. Full-bodied, with spicy and peppery overlays highlighting plum, currant and wild berry flavors, those along with just the barest hint of Brett to add a pleasing earthy charm to the wine. Destined for elegance. Best 2007-2010. Score 91.

53. Sea Horse, Antoine, 2004: Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins but with fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate an appealing array of plum, blackberry, and licorice, those matched nicely by near-sweet oak, all leading to a long, generously spicy finish. Drink now-2009. Score 91.

54. Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, Israel, 2002: Aged in oak for 18 months, full-bodied, rich and ripe, with fine balance between generous tannins and smoky oak. On the nose and palate currants, berries, plums, vanilla and on the long finish light herbs, black pepper and chocolate. Long and mouthfilling. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K

55. Segal, Merlot, Recasim, Dovev, Israel, 2003: Deep and dark, ripe and luxurious, with generous black cherry, blackberry, plum, mocha and vanilla aromas and flavor on a soft, almost caressing background. Soft, round and caressing finish. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K

56. Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Aged in half new, half one-year-old barriques for three months, this light golden, medium-bodied white shows fresh, concentrated and vibrant aromas and flavors of passion fruit, green apples, hay, honeysuckle and citrus peel. Crisp, elegant and harmonious. Drink now–2008. Score 91. K

57. Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2004: Perhaps the best effort yet from this still young winery. Deep, almost impenetrable royal purple in color, this blnd of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot, some aged in new oak, some in older for 16 months, showing fine balance between wood, moderately-firm tannins and vegetal-fruity characteristics. On first attack pepper and spicy wood but that followed quickly by well proportioned blackcurrants, purple plum and blackberry fruits, all of that supported nicely by hints of cloves, Oriental spices and on the long and mouthfilling finish freshly picked Mediterranean herbs. Best 2008-2011. Score 91.

58. Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2004: Another potentially "best yet" from Vitkin. Deep, dark and intense, reflecting its 16 months in partly new French oak, with fine balance between firm tannins sweet cedar and spicy oak, this concentrated wine opens slowly in the glass but when it does it explodes with blackberry, plum, mineral, meaty and herbal aromas and flavors. Long, tannic and with a gentle hint of bitter-sweet chocolate on the finish, an elegant wine, one that calls to mind some of those of American winemaker Helen Turley. Best 2007-2010, possibly longer. Score 91.

Wines Earning 90 Points

59. Alexander the Great, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Full bodied and reflecting the barriques in which it developed with firm, near-sweet tannins and hints of spicy wood. Generous and long with a complex array of currant, herbal and mineral aromas and flavors. Best 2008–2011. Score 90.

60. Amphorae, Merlot, 2004: Dark royal purple in color, dense, with firm and chewy tannins and generous wood well balanced by ripe black cherry, plum, raspberry and briar flavors, all lingering nicely on the palate. Best 2008–2012. Score 90.

61. Amphorae, Chardonnay, 2005: Golden straw in color, with harmony and elegance instead of power, this gently oaked white shows good acidity and a gentle minerality together with aromas and flavors of pear, apple and kiwi fruits, all leading to a long, fresh finish. Drink now–2008. Score 90.

62. Amphorae, Cabernet Franc, 2004: Deep garnet, with bright raspberry and plum flavors, this dark, rich and plush wine shows thick, earthy tannins and gamy currant and cedar wood aromas and flavors. Perhaps not elegant but certainly powerful and complex. Drink now–2012. Score 90

63. Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Altitude +624, 2003: Deep garnet towards royal purple in color, made from grapes from the vineyards at Moshav Alma in the Upper Galilee, and oak-aged for 15 months. On first attack firm, drying tannins but those receding to add a near-sweetness to the black fruits, oriental spices and hints of white truffles and green olives. Long and generous. Best 2008–2012. Score 91. K

64. Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Garnet towards deep purple, medium- to full-bodied, with this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc was aged in partly French, partly American barriques for 12 months. Good balance between mouth-coating tannins, spicy and vanilla tinged oak and acidity. On the palate wild berries, red currants and a light but appealing mineral hint, all of which linger nicely. Drink now-2009, possibly longer. Score 90.

65. Assaf, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Blended with about 7% of Cabernet Franc, this medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic, dark garnet towards royal purple wine shows fine balance and structure. Seductive, rich and supple, with lush raspberry, blackberry and currant fruits supported nicely by vanilla and, on the long finish the tannins rising again. Drink now-2011. Score 90.

66. Barkan, Superieur, Pinotage, 2002: Full-bodied, with sur-ripe blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits, those backed up nicely by moderately-firm tannins and generous spicy, meaty and herbal aromas and flavors. Deep, round and long, the wine is drinking nicely now and should cellar comfortably until 2008. Score 90. K

67. Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Showing as well now as at barrel-tastings. Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins in fine balance with acidity, spicy wood and fruits. On first attack, blackcurrants and black licorice, those followed by wild berries, earthy minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Best 2007-2011. Score 90.K

68. Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Single Vineyard, Ramat Arad, Israel, 2005: Developed partly in 2 year old French oak and partly in stainless steel tanks, this crisp, lively and well focused white offers up a generous mouthful of pear, orange, grapefruit, spice and herbal aromas and flavors that go on to a nicely balanced finish. Drink now-2007. Score 90. K

69. Chateau Golan, Sauvignon Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2005: Light straw in color and deeply aromatic, this medium-bodied white, developed partly in oak and partly in stainless steel, shows tempting pear, citrus, apple and melon fruits, those supported nicely by minerals and a nice hint of white pepper. Drink now-2008. NIS 132. Score 90.

70. Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, 2004: Aged in large oak barrels for 14 months, this medium- to full-bodied and firmly tannic wine opens beautifully in the glass to reveal ripe blackberry, currant and raspberry fruits, all with a delicate hint of near-sweetness and spring flowers. On the long and generous finish hints of spices, licorice and smoked meat. Best 2008-2011. Score 90.

71. Clos de Gat, Merlot, Har'El, 2004: Deep and dark, with near-sweet oak-accented tannins and generous currant, plum and berry aromas and flavors, those coming to a well-focused, lightly smoky and mouthfilling finish. Approachable early but best from 2007-2011. Score 90.

72. Dalton, Shiraz, Reserve, 2004: Full-bodied and concentrated withl soft tannins and generous but not-at-all overpowering sweet cedar and spices from the barriques in which it aged. Aromas and flavors here open with raspberries, go on to cherries and berries, red plums, pepper and an attractive earthiness. Generous ad long. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2008-2010. Score 90. K

73 Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel, 2004: Full-bodied, ripe and complex.Shows good balance between ripe cherry, currant and plums, those with a dash of anise and oak. Developing nicely, with supple tannins and overall excellent balance. Best 2007–2010. Score 90. K

74. Ella Valley Vineyard’s, Vineyard's Choice, Choice, Merlot, 2004: Dark, deep and firmly tannic but with balance that bodes well for the future. Reflecting 16 months in oak with spicy and sweet-cedar notes, those opening to reveal raspberry, currant, chocolate and herbal notes that linger on a long finish. Best 2008–2012. Score 90. K

75. Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, Israel, 2005: Light in color but aromatic and delicious. Gentle hints of spicy wood and steely minerals underlie generous grapefruit, guava and nectarine aromas and flavors, those lingering nicely to a long and lively green-apple and lightly grassy finish. Drink now-2008. Score 90. K

76. Ella Valley Vineyards, Muscat Dessert, Israel, 2003: Medium-bodied, unabashedly sweet but with fine balance between sugar acidity and alcohol. On the nose and palate aromas and flavors of honeyed summer fruits, stewed pears, sesame seeds and spring flowers. Generous, mouthfilling and long. Perhaps at its verybest not with a dessert but as dessert. Score 90. K

77. Flam, Superieure, 2004: A blend of 80% Syrah and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon showing toasty oak, smoke and generous but soft tannins, those matched nicely by spicy plum, berry and black cherry fruits. A long, round and elegantly near-sweet finish. Best 2007–2012. Score 90.

78. Flam, Classico, 2005: A dark ruby towards royal purple, medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal parts. Aged in barriques for six months and showing a hint of spicy oak and near-sweet tannins, those yielding to blackberry and currant fruits. A surprisingly high 14.5% alcohol here but that in no way interferes with the soft, round pleasures of the wine. Drink now-2009. Score 90.

79. Flam, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, 2005: Unoaked, with no malolactic fermentation, this crisply clear golden straw colored wine shows a fascinating combination of freshness, crisp fruitiness and easy quaffability but along with that a good deal of sophistication and complexity. On the nose and palate tropical fruits, melon, citrus and freshly cut spring flowers, those matched on the long finish by hints of guava and minerals. Drink now-2008, perhaps longer. Score 90.

80. Galil Mountain, Syrah, Israel, 2003: Made entirely from Syrah grapes from a very low yield vineyard, full bodied, deep, tannic and concentrated, with generously but not overpoweringly oak, all integrating nicely to show peppery black fruits, hints of grilled meat, and an appealing herbal-chocolate finish. Drink now-2009. Score 90. K

81. Galil Mountain, Pinot Noir, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, with firm tannins well balanced with wood, the two needing time to come together with red berries and plums, black cherries, light herbal notes and, on the finish, fresh strawberries. Long and elegant. Drink now–2009. Score 90. K

82. Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, Israel, 2003: This soft, smooth and polished wine shows tempting ripe cherry and currant fruits, those supported nicely by layers of Mediterranean herbs, vanilla and light hints of smoky oak. Complex, long and elegant. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K