Thursday, 23 December, 2004, found me during the relatively early hours of morning at Kibbutz Hulda, there visiting the winery of Barkan and Segal. The following report will not concern itself with the recent merger of Barkan and Tempo as I was not concerned at all with the world of business, ownership or high finance but with what would make its way into my tasting glasses. Together with winemakers Ed Salzberg, Yotam Sharon, Itay Lahav of Barkan and Avi Feldstein of Segal, I sampled all in all some 35 wines, some re-tastings, some advance tastings, others barrel tastings. As will be seen from my tasting notes, there is no question but that the better wines of both Barkan and Segal continue to get even better on an annual basis.
The White Wines
Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, Negev Project, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, this unoaked white reflects its desert terroir with a stony dryness that at one moment calls to mind unoaked Chablis and at another a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. White peaches, green apples and citrus fruits on an appealing herbaceous background. Unusual and delicious. Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2003: My earlier note holds firmly: Medium-bodied but satisfyingly mouth-filling, with rich apple, melon and citrus fruits coming together well with light vanilla and toasted oak, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now- 2006. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2002: Light gold in color medium-bodied and fully mature but still showing good balance between fruits, wood and acidity. Citrus, melon and pear aromas and flavors along with spices lead to a mouthfilling finish. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Bright and lively, golden-straw in color, medium-bodied, with ample acidity and tempting melon and apple fruits. Generous grassy-mineral hints throughout. Drink from release-2007. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2003: Showing even better now than at earlier tastings. Medium- to full-bodied, light golden straw in color with green reflections and melon, gooseberry and apple fruits on a mineral-rich background. Appealing spiciness and lively acidity carry through to a moderately long finish. Drink now-2006. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Classic, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Light- to medium-bodied, with low acidity and a hint of sweetness but clean and appealing as a summertime quaffer. Drink up. Score 84. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Barkan, Emerald Riesling, Reserve, 2003: Medium to full-bodied, with a fruity nose and happily lacking the often cloying floral aromas of Emerald Riesling, this appealing wine shows crisp acidity and only a light hint of sweetness, as well as tempting citrus and peach aromas and flavors and overall good balance. Lacking a bit in liveliness. Drink up. Score 84. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
The Red Wines
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Superieur, 2002 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with generous spicy oak and lively acidity for balance. A generous core of ripe blueberry, cassis and blackcurrant fruits, those matched nicely by overlays of , spices and cocoa and, on the long finish appealing hints of minerals and licorice. One of the potentially best ever from Barkan. Best starting in 2006. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: My earlier notes hold firmly: Dark royal purple, medium to full-bodied and with good balance between well-proportioned wood, tannins and black fruits, this wine needs time to develop before it shows its best. Drink now–2008. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: My earlier notes hold firmly: Deep garnet toward purple in color, well balanced, with generous cherry and plum fruits as well as a spicy, toasty oak overlay. Soft tannins and a rich fruity finish. Drink now–2007. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Merlot, 2002: Dark garnet in color, with soft, well-integrated tannins and overall good balance, the once powerful and dominating oak now receding to let the plum and berry fruits make themselves felt. Drink now–2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Pinot Noir, Negev Project, 2003: Subdued ruby in color, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins and appealing berry and black cherry fruits backed up by light herbal and earthy sensations. Best now-2007. Score 89. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Pinotage, 2002: Youthful royal purple in color, this medium- to full-bodied red is packed with lush raspberry, blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits, those matched nicely by sweet spices, dark chocolate and, from mid-palate light hints of smoked bacon. A tantalizing hint of bitter herbs comes in on the moderately long finish. Drink now-2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Pinotage, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): The third and best Pinotage release from Barkan. Dark and deep, full-bodied, with fine balance between generous tannins, a generous butnot exaggeratedsense of wood,and tempting plum, black cherry, blueberry and chocolate aromas and flavors all of which linger beautifully. Best 2006-2009. Tenative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Reserve, Merlot, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Perhaps Barkan's best-ever Merlot. Deep garnet in color, full-bodied and harmonious, with soft tannins, a gentle sense of spicy oak, and an array of purple plum, currant and wild berry fruits. Compact, round and with the potential for elegance. Best 2006-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Classic, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Showing better than at earlier tastings. Deep ruby red, medium-bodied, with chunky tannins and appealing berry, cherry and currant fruits. Not complex but appealing. Drink now. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Classic, Merlot, 2003: Medium-bodied, dark ruby in color, with dark plum fruitsand soft, just gripping-enough tannins to add backbone and an appealing hint of bitter herbs on the finish. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Classic, Petite Sirah, Classic, 2003: Deep ruby in color, with chunky, country-style tannins and a few cherry-berry fruits. Drink now. Score 83. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
And then there was a surprise – a barrel tasted wine presented in a numbered but otherwise unidentified bottle, and with three winemakers staring at me, I was asked only one question – from what variety had the wine been made. My guess – Nebbiolo. And all I was rewarded with was a smile and a deep "Aha" on the part of senior winemaker Salzberg. Now all I've got to do is wait a year or two before the wine is unveiled!
Following are my tasting notes of the Segal wines:
The Red Wines
Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Dishon, 2002 (Barrel Tasting): Complex aromas led to equally complex flavors. Layers of jammy berry and strawberry fruits on spicy currants, anise, tar and sweet cedar, all along with a touch of green olive that works its way into the finish. Full-bodied with firm but polished tannins. Drink now-2007. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Single Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Dishon, 2000: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this well-balanced, deep garnet toward royal purple wine reflects its 18 months in small oak casks by showing generous vanilla and smoke, those on a background of currant, berry, plum and spices. Drink now–2007. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Single Vineyard, Merlot, Dovev, 2002 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards black, medium- to full-bodied, soft on the palate despite firm tannins and with tempting aromas and flavors of blackberries, plums and sweet herbs. Best now-2008. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Unfiltered, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Full-bodied, reflecting its 22 months in oak with generous vanilla and toasty oak, this still young, concentrated and complex wine is now quite tight and somewhat on the green side. What it needs is bottle aging, and when it does come into its own, look for tart plum, black cherry and berry fruits together with spice and anise aromas and flavors, leading to a long and complex fruited finish. Drink now–2008. Score 90. K
Unfiltered, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: Made from grapes growing in the Upper Galilee, this deep royal purple toward garnet wine underwent a long skin contact for 35 days and then spent 20 months in new French and American oak barrels. Full-bodied, ripe, intense and with currant, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors, the wine has good balance between fruits, wood and firm tannins. Drink now–2007. Score 90. K
Marom Galil, Merlot, 2002: My earlier note holds firmly: Medium- to full-bodied, this blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon has firm tannins and generous wood, those balanced nicely by plum, berry and currant fruits. Round and mouthfilling. Drink now-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Marom Galil, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Again, my earlier tasting notes hold firmly: Inky purple to black in color, medium to full-bodied, and reflecting its 18 months in oak with generous sweet and smoky oak, those well balanced by firm but well integrating tannins and a rich array of black currant, cassis and wild berry fruits. Long and complex. Drink now–2007. Score 89. (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Shel Segal, Merlot, 2002: A medium-bodied blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this deep garnet-colored wine was aged for eight months in American oak casks and now shows plenty of vanilla and oak along with some black fruits but lacks backbone and depth. Drink up. Score 80. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Shel Segal, Dry Red, 2003: A simple little red, a blend of 65% Argaman filled out with Merlot and Petite Sirah. Dark in color but light in body, with no noticeable tannins and a few black fruits that make themselves felt. Drink up. Score 75. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
The White Wines
Single Vineyard, Chardonnay, Dovev, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden, medium-bodied, with crisp minerals in the background yielding nicely to an rich aroma and flavor array of spring flowers, summer fruits and, melons. With hints of wood comfortably in the background, tempting and fascinating. Drink now-2008. Score 91. K (Tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Marom Galil, Chardonnay, 2003: Not subjected to the usual process of malolactic fermentation, this rich, round and spicy white offers up toasty vanilla and caramel nuances to complement pineapple, melon and citrus fruits on a generous oaky background, culminating in a long finish. Drink now–2006. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Marom Galil, Chardonnay, 2001: Aged in oak barrels for 6 months, this medium-bodied, quite pleasant wine is somewhat on the simple side, revealing only stingy tropical fruit, pear, green apple and vanilla aromas and flavors. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 23 Dec 2004)
Best,
Rogov
