Wednesday, 7 February 2007 found me during the morning hours at the Barkan Winery in Hulda, there in the company of winemakers Ed Salzberg, Yotam Sharon, Itay Lahat and Avi Feldstein doing barrel tastings, advance tastings and re-tastings of the wines of both Barkan and Segal.

Barkan, the second largest winery in the country, produces wines in five major series: Superieur, Altitude, Millenium, Reserve, Classic and Domaine. Segal, a quasi-independent daughter company of Barkan produces wines in Single Vineyard, Unfiltered, Ben Ami, Marom Galil, Rehasim, single vineyard Dovev wines, Batzir and the popularly priced Shel Segal series. My own tastings were of upper-level wines of both labels and at least in those wines attention is given to separating the vineyards of the two brands in order for each to develop its own image.

With a fully-modern winery, quite a few truly excellent vineyards, and talented winemakers aboard, both brands have made definite steps up in quality and the interest of their wines in recent years. At this time Barkan is producing some 7.5-9 million bottles annually and Segal about 1.5 million bottles annually. Of interest is that both the Syrah and Shiraz labels are used, the first representing vine clones from France and the second those that have made their way here via the University of California at Davis from Australia.

My thanks to Shmuel Boxer and the four winemakers for their courtesies and for a rewarding tasting.

Rogov

Barkan

Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): With 20% of the wine aged sur lie in new wood for only three months and the remainder developed in stainless steel, this light golden straw colored, medium-bodied white shows deeply aromatic and with good balancing acidity. On the nose and palate tropical fruits, citrus peel and hints of Mediterranean herbs. Drink from release. Score 88. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden in color, with one-third of the wine aged in oak, this medium-bodied white shows appealing peach, melon and citrus fruits, those complemented by gentle hints of wood. Crisp, fruity and mouth-filling. Drink from release-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Shiraz Rose, Classic, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Rose-petal pink in color, medium-bodied, crisply dry, with generous red berry, strawberry and citrus peel aromas and flavors, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Merlot, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied with gripping tannins on first attack but those yielding nicely in the glass to reveal good balance between gentle wood and cassis, red plum and wild berry fruits, those complemented nicely by hints of pepper, vanilla and chocolate. Lingers nicely on the palate. Drink from release-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): The first Shiraz released in this series. Dark purple, firm, and faithful to the Shiraz variety with oak-accented berry, cherry and licorice flavors backed up by ligh hints of leather and mint. Linger nicely. Drink fro release-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Note: At this point in the tasting, we switched to tasting pairs of wines in the Altitude series. In each pair I re-tasted the wines of 2003 and tasted the wines of 2005, in each case from the same vineyards at the same altitudes, each submitted to very similar treatment from harvest to bottling.

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude +720, Reserve, 2003: Made from grapes from the Har Godrim vineyard near the Lebanese border and aged for 12 months in primarily French oak casks. Full-bodied, concentrated, and dark garnet towards royal purple in color, with firm tannins that are integrating nicely, Showing generous red currants and plums on a tantalizing earthy-herbal and lightly minty background. Best 2008–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude +720 Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, ripe, spicy and with generous plum, blackberry and currant fruits, those with appealing underlying hints of allspice, cloves and anise. With fine balance between soft tannins, wood and fruits and a tantalizing hint of bitterness that comes in on the long finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude + 624 Reserve, 2003: Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, made from grapes from the vineyards at Moshav Alma in the Upper Galilee, and oak-aged for 15 months. Medium- to full-bodied, on first attack showing firm, drying tannins and spicy oak but those receding in the glass to add a near-sweetness to the black and red fruits, oriental spices and hints of freshly picked mushrooms and green olives. Long and generous. Best 2008–2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude +624, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Intensely deep royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, showing appealing but not overpowering spicy cedar wood and generous blackberry, currant and wild berry fruits o a background of spices, minerals and a hint of green olives that comes in on the long finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Merlot, Superieur, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Released as a Merlot varietal in this series only twice in the past (1998 and 2000) but a far, far better edition than either of those. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing smoky blackberry berry, black cherry and cassis fruits, those on a light background of red peppers and vanilla, all leading to a long smooth, mouth-filling finish. Drink from release-2011. Score 90. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Superieur, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: My most recent tasting note hold firmly: Dark, almost impenetrable royal purple, firm, concentrated, one of the best ever from Barkan. Full-bodied, with soft, gently mouthcoating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy oak, showing intense aromas and flavors of black currants, blackberries and black cherries, those complemented nicely by hints of dates, sage and near-sweet cedar wood. A long finish with a burst of minerals and black fruits. Drink now-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Superieur, 2000: Made from grapes harvested on the Golan and in the Upper Galilee. Aged first in new oak and transferred later to used oak, this full-bodied and concentrated, deep royal toward purple wine offers up generous blackcurrant, blackberry and chocolate aromas, all with an appealing overlay of Mediterranean herbaceousness. Drinking nicely but picking up a light medicinal aroma, and perhaps starting to show age. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal

Perhaps somewhat confusing is that Segal is currently releasing wines in two similarly named series – Single Vineyard and Single, the first truly of single vineyard wines, those from the Dishon and Dovev vineyards, the second of a single, unblended variety of grape as part of their Marom Galil series.

Segal, Rose, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A deep cherry red blend of Tempranillo and Shiraz. Dry, medium-bodied, with generous tutti-frutti and raspberry aromas and flavors, a not-at-all complex but very pleasant drinking wine. A bit more acidity might have made the wine a bit livelier. Drink from release. Score 85. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Syrah, Single, Marom Galil, 2005 (Advance Tasting): The first release of this variety in this series from Segal. Dark purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing spicy red and black fruits, those complemented nicely by near-sweet tobacco on the finish. Drink from release-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single, Marom Galil, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from several different Galilee vineyards. Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, with generous spicy and dusty wood influence and showing red currants, berries, bittersweet chocolate and stony minerals. Needs a bit of time for the elements to integrate. Best 2008-2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single, Marom Galil, 2003: Somewhat lighter in color than at past tastings and also showing more moderate oak and softer oak than in the past, almost as if the wine had undergone some dramatic development. Whatever, now showing garnet red, medium- to full-bodied with firm tannins integrating nicely and better balance between wood, tannins and fruits. On the nose and palate blackcurrantand blackberry fruits supported by hints of earthy herbaceousness. Drink now-2009. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marom Galil, 2001: Dark royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with the once generous oak influence subsided but showing a hint of sweetness that was not here in its youth. Continuing to show currant, cassis and berry fruits, those now yielding to a developing herbal-tobacco background. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007).

Segal, Merlot, Dovev, Rehasim, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark garnet in color, this medium to full-bodied, herbal and spicy and generously tannic wine shows the kind of balance and structure that even at this early stage bode well for its future. Aromas and flavors of black cherries, blackberries and currants matched nicely by spicy oak accents and on the long finish hints of espresso and dark chocolate. Best 2008–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Merlot, Dovev, Rehasim, 2003: Deep and dark, ripe and luxurious, with generous cherry, plum, mocha and vanilla aromas and flavors on a soft, round and caressingly long finish. Drink now–2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Merlot, Dovev, Rehasim, 2002: As in its youth, reflecting its 19 months in barriques with generous oak but that in fine balance with soft, mouthcoating tannins. On the nose and palate appealing berry, black cherry and cassis fruits, all on a just spicy enough background. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Dovev, Rehasim, 2003: Medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins. Rich, round, supple and generous, with layers of blackberries, currants, plums and sweet cedar, those on a generous but not at all offensive background of dusty oak. Drink now–2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, 1999: Full-bodied, still showing good balance and well-focused black cherry, wild berry and currant fruits along with hints of herbs and spices, but now throwing a generous amount of sediment. Still drinking nicely but picking up a light sweetness and woody aspect on the nose. Not for much longer cellaring. Drink up. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauignon, Unfiltered, 2000: Deep garnet in color, this wine spent 20 months in new French and American oak. Now showing full-bodied, and matured nicely, with its currant, red berry and earthy-herbal aromas and flavors now showing overlays of chocolate and mint. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, 2001: Dark garnet in color, full-bodied and reflecting its 22 months in oak with generous vanilla and toasty oak. Concentrated, complex and tannic but now opening very nicely indeed, and showing appealing currant, plum and black cherry fruits, those on a background of Oriental spices, all coming to a long, complex finish. Drink now–2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 7 Feb 2007)

Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Firm and intense, full-bodied, with near-sweet, gripping tannins and heavy but not dominating oak, those needing time to integrate but in fine balance with red and black currants, black cherries, sage and spicy cedar wood on the nose and palate. On the long finish look for a generous overlay of minerals. Best starting in 2008. Score 90. K (Tasted 7 Feb 2007)

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Wine critics visit wineries to put wines and winemakers to the test. There is no reason why the winemakers should not, in their own turn, put the critics to a test, and in the most friendly of fashions there were two waiting for me – two "mystery wines" for me to taste and to write about before the winemakers would reveal the component varieties or other details of the wines.

All I was told of the first of these, from Barkan, that the wine was a Bordeaux blend and that it was from the 2003 harvest. Generous spicy wood and a not inconsiderable layer of vanilla in the wine reflects that the wine has been and probably remains in oak from the harvest. Deep garnet in color, with generous and mouth-coating tannins, with an array of currant, berry and black cherry fruits, those supported by hints of spices and minerals, my "guesstimate" is that this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and would you believe Malbec (n.b. There still is Malbec in Bordeaux and it is used primarily in blending)..

The second wine, from Segal was in a bottle playfully labeled XTC and all I was told was that the wine was from the 2006 vintage. Seeing the extraordinarily bright purple in color, my first impression was that this might be that Israeli creation of Argaman. On tasting the wine though, its full-body, notably high acidity and tannins that almost stunned the cheeks and gums, and rich blackberry, raspberry, plum and tarry aromas and flavors, forced me to think that this was a Nebbiolo.

And now I shall wait until I receive an email from one of the winemakers revealing whether my guesses make me brilliant or something of an ass. Either of course will be acceptable. I shall, of course post either self-congratulations or do my public self flagellation by posting their comments once they are received.