On Wednesday morning, 5 March, I made my way to Kibbutz Hulda to do extensive tastings at Barkan Wineries, those including of course the wines of Segal which can be thought of as a daughter-company of the winery.
Among pleasant surprises that awaited were to see the now well-under-way construction of the new, very impressive and architecturally appealing barrel room and visitors' center. That the barrel room is now fully functional means that the winery has now completely withdrawn from their facility at Barkan on the Trans-Samarian Highway. The visitor's center, currently in advanced states of construction promises to be one of the most modern and aesthetically pleasing I have seen
Most important from my perspective were advance tastings, re-tastings and barrel tastings of 58 wines.
My sincere thanks to winemakers Ed Salzberg, Yotam Sharon, Avi Feldstein and Irit Boxer for their good company and many courtesies during my visit – Yotam who accompanied me through the entire tasting and the others who sat, talked and tasted with us as time allowed.
Following are my tasting notes from the day. The notes are presented basically in the order of the tasting.
Best
Rogov
Segal
Segal's top wines are their Single Vineyard and Unfiltered releases, those followed by Rehasim, Marom Galil (including those wines labeled Single and Fusion), and both the Batzir and popularly priced Shel Segal wines.
Segal, Chardonnay, Marom Galil, 2006: Light golden in color, with a light buttery not from the wood in which part of the wine was aged for six months, showing medium-bodied, with lively acidity and appealing citrus and pineapple notes. Crisp and appealing. Drink now. Score 86. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Chardonnay, Marom Galil, 2007 (Barrel Tasting):Medium-bodied, golden straw in color showing hints of smoky oak, with a note of mint overlaying pineapple, lemon and lime fruits. Drink from release. Score 85. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Rose, Fusion, 2006: A light, nicely acidic and crisply dry blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Syrah . Dark pink in color, showing raspberry, strawbbery and tutti-fruitti notes. Think of this as the bubble-gum of roses but fresh, light and fun to drink. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Dey Red, Shel Segal, 2006: The winery's annual best sellar a fine entry-level wine showing light- to medium-bodied, with soft tannins, fine royal purple color and easy to take red fruits. A blend this year of 75% Argaman, about 20% Merlot and the balance of other various grapes. Simple but honest. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Fusion, Marom Galil, 2006: An unoaked, medium-bodied blend of 60% Merlot and 20% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. With soft tannins and a basic cherry-berry personality a good everyday wine. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Single, Marom Galil, 2005: A blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 14 months. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing blackberry, blueberry and violet notes, the fruits and tannins rising on the finish. Drink now-2010. Score 87. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Single, Syrah, Marom Galil, 2005: A wine that calls the Rhone to mind. Blended with 6% of Cabernet Sauvignon, medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing spicy red and black fruits, those complemented by near-sweet tobacco and meaty notes on the finish. Drink now–2009. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marom Galil, Single, 2004: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from several Galilee vineyards. Dark garnet in color, with generous spicy and dusty wood influence reflecting 19 months in oak, showing currants, blackberries, bittersweet chocolate and stony minerals on lightly spicy bacground.. Drink now–2010. Score 88. K Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Cabernet Sauvigon, Marom Galil, Single, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet with orange and green reflections, medium- to full-bodied and showing soft tannins, generous oak and forward blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits on a background of minted chocolate. Generous and long. Drink from release-2010. Score 89. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Rehasim Dovev, 2003: Developed in French and American barriques for 19 months, this full-bodied red shows firm tannins and spicy wood integrating well. Opulent blueberry, currant plum flavors, those with spices, floral notes and hints of licorice and Mediterranean herbs in the background. Long, smooth, round and polished. Drink now–2011. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Rehasim, Dovev, 2004: Dark garnet, this medium to full-bodied, herbal, spicy and generously tannic wine shows fine balance and structure. Aromas and flavors of black cherries, blackberries and currants matched nicely by spicy oak accents and, on the long finish, hints of espresso and dark chocolate. Drink now–2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Rehasim, Dovev, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deeply aromatic, full-bodied with chewy tannins needing time to settle in but showing good balance and structure. Opens to reveal spicy oak along with black cherry and raspberry fruits, goes on to reveal a tempting herbaceousness and, on the finish a hint of eucalyptus. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Rehasim, Dovev, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins just now starting to settle down. With generous spicy wood and crisp acidity, opens to reveal an array of near-sweet black fruits. Needs time for its elements to come together. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Merlot, Rechasim, Dovev, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showing garnet towards royal-purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, somewhat fatty tannins still holding the wine back somewhat. As it does open the wine shows a basic blackberry-black cherry personality, the fruits overlaid with freshly cut Mediterannean herbal aromas and flavors. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Dishon, 2003: Full-bodied, with generous, near-sweet tannins and smoky wood now integrated nicely and opening to reveal red currant, wild berry, vanilla and hints of tar, all lingering nicely. Drink now–2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted
Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Dishon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost inky garnet in color, concentrated and intense. Full-bodied and tannic enough to be thought of as chewy. Good black fruits here but not so much a fruity wine as one led by aromas and flavors of smoked bacon, licorice and espresso coffee. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Dishon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards purple, medium- to full-bodied, already showing a rather generous hand with smoky wood that tends to hold back the fruits and herbal notes here. Perhaps better with time. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Cabernet Sauvignon, Unfiltered, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from a single component. Full-bodied, concentrated, deeply tannic and with generous wood even at this early stage, the tannins and wood holding back the black fruits and Oriental spices that are trying to make themselves felt. Perhaps better with time and blending. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Segal, Caberent Sauignon, Unfiltered, 2004: Blended with 10% of Merlot and oak-aged in French and American barriques for 22 months, showing dark, firm and intense. Full bodied, with still gripping tannins and generous but not dominating oak with good balance between those and the red and black currants, black cherries, sage and spicy cedar wood on the nose and palate. On the long finish a generous overlay of minerals and an appealing hint of bitterness. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan
Note: It is worth keeping in mind that Barkan, the second largest winery in the country, releases wines in four series – from the most complex to the least – Superieur, Reserve (of which the Altitude wines may be considered a sub-label), Classic and Domaine.
Barrkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Classic, 2007: Light straw colored, unoaked, light- to medium-bodied with straightforward citrus and lemon-grass notes on a lively background. Not complex but an easy to drink quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. With 20% of the wine aged sur lie in new wood for three months and the remainder developed in stainless steel, this light golden-straw colored, medium-bodied white shows deeply aromatic with good balancing acidity. On the nose and palate tropical fruits, citrus peel and hints of Mediterranean herbs. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Chardonnay, Classic, 2007: Light gold in color and medium-bodied, this unoaked Chardonnay shows aromatic and generous on the palate with citrus, pineapple and light spicy notes. Not complex but a good quaffer. Score 85. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Light gold in color, one-third of this medium-bodied white was aged in oak. Shows appealing peach, melon and citrus fruits, those complemented by gentle hints of wood. Crisp, fruity and mouth-filling. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Showing light spicy and vanilla notes from the oak in which it was aged for a short while, lively golden in color and showing an appealing array of tropical fruits, red grapefruit. Bright and zesty. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Emerald Riesling, Classic, 2007: Just a wee bit too sweet and missing just a wee bit of acidity but showing floral, citrus and tropical notes. The kind of thing for people who like this kind of thing. Drink now. Score 80. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Emerald Riesling, Reserve, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Light to medium-bodied, with mild sweetness set off by balancing acidity and fresh aromas and flavors of pineapple, citrus fruits and dried apricots. Drink up. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan Emerald Riesling, Reserve, 2007 (Advance Tasting): With moderate sweetness, appealing citrus and ripe pineapple notes, showing good balancing acidity to keep it lively. Drink from release. Score 84. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan Shiraz Rose, Classic, 2006: A fun wine. Rose-petal pink, medium-bodied, crisply dry, showing appealing quince, red berry and citrus peel notes all lingering comfortably.Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Shiraz Rose, Classic 2007 (Advance Tasting): Blush pink, light- to medium-bodied, soft, round and lively with berry, cherry and tutt-fruitti notes that make for ideal breakfast or warm-weather quaffing. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86.K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Merlot Classic 2006: Soft and round, with a bare hint of spicy wood and straightforward berry, cherry and cassis fruits. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Shiraz, Classic, 2006: Royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and good acidity to keep it lively. Few varietal traits here but appealing black and red fruits on a lightly spicy background make this a good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. K (tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Classic 2006: Medium- perhaps medium- to full bodied, with notes of spicy oak and soft tannins integrating nicely and showing appealing blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Pinotage, Classic, 2005: Garnet red in color, medium-bodied, with plum, strawberry jam and toasty notes along with a hints of smoke and cocoa on the finish. Easy to drink. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Pinotage, Classic, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, with near sweet tannins and opening to show plum, currant jelly, eucalyptus and smoky notes. A comfortable "walk on the wild side". Both fun and interesting. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Tempranillo, Reserve, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark ruby in color, with firm tannins now softening and integrating nicely and showing an appealing array of plum, cherry, licorice and tobacco aromas and flavors, all reflecting 16 months in oak with sweet cedar wood. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan Pinotage, Reserve, 2005: Garnet towards purple, medium-bodied with soft, near-sweet tannins and reflecting its 12 months in oak with generous spicy wood. Opens to show straightforward berry, cherry and plum fuits on a lightly spicy background. Neither complex nor deep.. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Shiraz, Reserve 2005: Oak-aged for 14 months, medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet, firm, and faithful to the Shiraz variety, this red shows oak-accented berry, cherry and licorice flavors backed up by light hints of leather and mint. Lingers nicely. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: Aged in oak for 14 months, dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with gripping tannins on first attack which yield in the glass to reveal good balance between gentle wood and cassis, red plum and wild berry fruits complemented by hints of pepper, licorice and chocolate.Lingers nicely on the palate. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauignon, Reserve, 2004: A distinctly Old World style of wine. Dark cherry red towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied but showing fine concentration with generous layers of currants, berries and red plums supported by now well integrating tannins and a gentle hand with thewood. On the finish look for a tempting note of Mediterranean herbs. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 412, 2005: Dark garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins and reflecting its 14 months in oak with spicy wood. On the nose and palate red plums berries and, currants, those with nice hints of chocolate and tobacco on the finish. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 624, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, this medium to full-bodied wine shows on first attack firm, drying tannins and spicy oak but those receding in the glass to add a near-sweetness to the black and red fruits, oriental spices and hints of freshly picked mushrooms and green olives. Long and generous. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Altitude 720, 2005: Drinking even better than at earlier tastings. Opens with a smoky, spicy nose, and goes on to deliver appealing plum, blackberry and currant fruits, those overlaid with Oriental spices. Soft, caressing tannins and gentle wood add to the complexity of the wine. Look as well for a tantalizing hint of earthy bitterness that comes in on the long finish. Drink now-2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Superieur, 2003: Dark, almost impenetrable royal-purple in color, Firm and concentrated, this is one of the best ever from Barkan. Full-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins and a judicious hand with spicy oak, shows intense aromas and flavors of black currants,blackberries and black cherries, those complemented by hints of dates, sage and near-sweet cedar wood. A long chocolate and tobacco finish bursting with minerals and black fruits. Drink now–2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Merlot, Superieur, 2004: Dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely; showing smoky blackberry, berry, black cherry and cassis fruits, those on a light background of swet herbs and vanilla, all leading to a long, smooth, mouth-filling finish. Drink now–2010. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Pinotage, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in American oak, showing dark royal purple at this stage. Juicy, with near-sweet notes and showing plum, crushed berry and licorice notes with a hint of briar wood on the finish. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 5 Mar2008)
Barkan, Pinotage, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Actually a pre-barrel tasting as the wine was still in stainless steel tanks waiting to be transferred to barrels. A potentially good effort for the vintage, concentrated, with plum grape and blackberry notes along with sweet and spicy notes that run through this medium- to full-bodied wine. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet red, medium- to full-bodied developing in French and American oak and showing near-sweet tannins opening to reveal raspberry, currant and earthy minerals leading to a medium-long finish. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Merlot, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in new French barriques, showing almost inky garnet in color, full-bodied with firm but near-sweet tannins and spicy wood. Opens to reveal wild berry, cassis and citrus peel notes, those supported nicely by hints of spices and, on the finish a rising hint of mint. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep youthful royal purple, developing in French oak casks and showing smooth and refined, with a light minty edge to ripe cherry and berry fruits. Full-bodied and soft, with hint of spices that linger on a long finish. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
Barkan, Cabernet Sauvigon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark and ripe, with crisp tannins and an array of near-sweet blackcherry, smoky and creamy notes. Perhaps a bit too soft on the opening but intensity rises on the finish. Perhaps better with time. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 5 Mar 2008)
As the winemakers like to do during my visits to Barkan-Segal, there was also one mystery wine, an experiment that may or may not come to fruition, was unveiled for my "guessing pleasure". Oh boy, did I guess wrong on this one!