I visited the Benhaim winery on 8 Jan 2006 . Although the winery is located on Moshav Kfar Azar in the Sharon region, it draws on grapes largely from their own vineyards on the eastern slopes of Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee.
Not all winemakers and not all wineries agree with the tasting notes or evaluations of all critics, and I am well aware that the Benhaim family feels that I under-rate their wines. What I appreciate, however, is that despite our disagreements (which we discuss openly) each of the members of this family-owned endeavor always greets me with openness and warmth. More than that, as I respect their endeavors, so I believe they respect mine. What I can comfortably report is that since I first started reviewing the Benhaim wines, my reviews have been at least somewhat more positive every year, and after this tasting it is apparent that they will move up one rung on my overall winery ratings in the 2007 edition of my little book.
Following, in the order of this morning's tasting are my notes. All of the wines will be re-tasted blind at least once again before the 2007 edition of the book goes to press.
Best,
Rogov
Benhaim, Chardonnay, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing better now than during barrel tastings. Medium-bodied, light golden in color, reflecting its 12 months in oak with just enough spicy wood to set off aromas and flavors of green apples and pears. Crisp and generous. Drink from release-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Pinot Noir, 2003: Cherry red towards light garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins, bended with 15% of Merlot and oak-aged for 14 months. On the nose and palate berry, cherry and plum fruits. As written earlier, lacking complexity but a pleasant little wine destined for youthful drinking. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Merlot, 2003: Medium-dark garnet in color, medium bodied, with generous but soft tannins and wood, those in good balance with the fruits and acidity. On first attack, plums and spices, those opening to reveal black cherries and cassis fruits together with hints of smoke, all leading to a pleasing hint of bitterness on the finish. Drink now-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, La Petite Sira, 2003: Not a mis-spelling of Petite Sirah but a play on words, sira, meaning boat in Hebrew and the winery owners major fans of yachting. Oak-aged for 12 months, this garnet-red blend of 60% Petite Sirah and 40% Merlot offers up soft tannins that allow the currant and black cherry fruits to make themselves nicely felt. A good quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah, this dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied wine reflects its 14 months in barriques with generous spicy oak and tannins that are still firm but now integrating nicely. An appealing array of blackcurrant, wild berry, coffee and dark chocolate notes, those leading to a long finish. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, this blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah (which seems to be a standard for the Special Reserve, Reserve and regular release of this wine), reflecting 20 months in all new oak with very generous smoky and spicy wood influences. Still firm tannins here but those and the wood opening in the glass to reveal ripe currants and berries and moderate length. Score 88. K (Tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grande Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): With more than two years in new oak this full-bodied and firmly tannic wine is still in its infancy. Under the oak and tannins appealing plum, currant, chocolate and licorice seem to be waiting to burst out but it will take time to see if those ever manage to overcome the heavy hand with the wood. Perhaps better with time. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grande Reserve, 2000: Showing considerably better than at earlier tastings, perhaps because the wine is aging gracefully or perhaps it is now singing its swan's song. Despite the improvement, still firm tannins and solid and almost chunky wood after having spent 26 months in oak make this more of an herbal-earthy-mineral wine than a fruity one. I'll taste this one again in 9 months to see where it goes. Score at this tasting 86. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2006)
Benhaim, Muscat Alexandroni, 2004 (Advance Tasting): After 12 months in oak this wine was reinforced to bring it to 15.4% alcohol. Generous sweetness here but that well balanced by acidity and showing appealing summer and tropical fruits. An appealing dessert wine. Drink now-2008. Score 87. K (Tasted 8 Jan 2006)
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