One morning and early afternoon found me at Binyamina winery. The advance tastings were accompanied by two surprises, the first that the winery will be releasing a new prestigious series, Hachoshen, the series containing three whites and three reds, all scheduled for relehase in the next 2 – 3 months, and the second that Binyamina winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon is now using the consulting services of Mounir Saouma, the remarkably talented winemaker of Burgundy's Lucien Le Moine.
The wines in the new series have been released in limited quantities – those ranging from 1319 – 3690 bottles each. The whites will sell for about NIS 80 and the reds for NIS 120.
As noted in several earlier recent threads, interesting things are happening at Binyamina. If I have any problem at all with these soon-to-be released wines it is in that in addition to carrying the name of series and the names of the grape varieties, each wine also has a specific name and I fear proliferation may confuse even the most dedicated of wine lovers. My tasting notes follow. One last comment before that though, and that with regard to the reds, all of which as will be seen in my notes have promise – if approached in their youth, these are wines that will require decanting 2, 3 or more hours before drinking.
Best,
Rogov
Advance Tastings:
Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc Fume, Leshem, HaChoshen, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Light golden in color, medium-bodied, lively, vibrant and focused, reflecting cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then 6 months in oak with a gentle hints of spices and vanilla along with aromas and flavors of pears, melon, honeysuckle and fresh cut hay, all with a pleasing tart edge that lingers nicely on the finish. Drink from release-2007. Score 88. K(Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Chardonnay-Viognier-Sauvignon Blanc, Yishpe, HaChoshen 2004 (Advance Tasting): Golden straw in color, medium-bodied and crisply dry, with good acidity and a long finish. On the nose and palate some spicy oak reflecting the six months the wine spent in barriques, and a spicy background to pear, apple, lemon fruits. On the long finish an appealing hint of licorice. Refreshing and sophisticated. Drink from release-2008. Score 88. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Chardonnay, Shoham, HaChoshen, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Lively light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, and needing time in the glass to open its flavors and aromas, but once those do open look for green apple, citrus, melon and tropical fruits as well as an appealing smoky input from the wood. Aged in oak for 16 months but happily not at all dominated by the wood. Drink from release-2008. Score 89. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Sapir, HaChoshen, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A full-bodied and firmly tannic blend of 40% each of Cabernet and Shiraz and 20% of Merlot. Oak aged for 15 months, showing good balance between wood tannins and a tempting array of aromas and flavors, those including chocolate, tobacco, dusty-oak and minerals, all on a warm background of blackcurrants, blackberries and spices. Approachable now only if decanted two-three hours before drinking. Best starting in 2007. Score 90. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tarshish, HaChoshen, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Deep garnet towards purple, full-bodied, with mouthcoating tannins and tightly closed unless decanted several hours before drinking. This wine, which developed in barriques for 16 months, will always be firm in texture but given time it will show harmony, and in addition to traditional blackcurrants, sweet berries and spices will show generous mineral, toasty and vanilla notes, all showing their balance from first sip to long finish. Best from 2007-2011. Score 91. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Syrah, Odem, HaCHoshen, 2003: Full-bodied, firm and concentrated, dark garnet in color, with firm and mouthcoating tannins opening in the glass to reveal near-sweet berry, plum, meaty and earthy aromas and flavors, all balanced nicely. Good concentration here to frame generous acidity and tannins, all of which work nicely to highlight the fruits and take the wine to a long finish. Needs decanting if served at this stage. Best 2007-2012. Score 91. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
The Barrel Tastings:
Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): In such an embryonic form that it has not yet completed its malolactic fermentation, but already showing medium- to full-body, generous but not overdone acidity and appealing pineapple, peach and citrus aromas and flavors. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Syrah, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, reflecting its 14 months in small oak barrels with still firm tannins and generous smoky wood and vanilla. Blended and developed together with 2% of Viognier grapes, medium- to full-bodied, with good balance and firm structure and already showing clean blueberry, blackberry and plum fruits along with hints of spices and earthiness. Needs time for the wood and tannins to integrate but showing great promise already. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with moderately firm, near-sweet tannins well balanced with currant, wild berry and cherry fruits. A bit acidic on the palate at this stage, so definitely meant for re-tasting. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color with orange reflections, made from grapes harvested on the Golan Heights. Full-bodied, with generous blackcurrant and blackberry fruits backed up nicely by hints of tobacco and earthiness and a mouthfillingly long finish. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 14 Oct 2005)
