On Tuesday (20 Dec 2005), I visited the Carmel winery at Rishon le Tzion, there in the company of winemakers Lior Laxer, who is now the Carmel's senior winemaker, Assaf Paz, who is in charge of the boutique winery at Zichron Ya'akov and Adam Montifiore, to do barrel, advance and several re-tastings.
I must say that the opening espresso coffee I was served was at about the same level as that one receives at most Israeli hotels (i.e. dilute) but once beyond that my visit was most rewarding. Whatever the internal managerial and economic re-organization, much of what I saw and heard impressed me positively. As will be seen in the tasting notes that follow, yet to be released Single Vineyard and Appelation wines continue to be of the quality that positively surprised many of us (myself included) when these series were first released; that the decision has been made that wines in these series will be released only in vintage years deemed to be of high enough quality; that the team of winemakers continues to reflect both optimism and enthusiasm; and that winemaking decisions seem to be firmly in the hands of the winemakers.
Several points of interest:
- The wines in the Selected series (known as Vineyard outside of Israel) will continue to be mevushal (pasteurized) as will, because of market demand, be those wines in the Private Collection series destined for sale abroad. Important to note though though that the Private Collection wines to be sold in Israel will not be mevushal and I cannot help but think this will bring about an improvement in complexity and quality in those wines.
- The blended wine known as Limited Edition (first release was from the 2002 vintage) will become the flagship wine of the winery, these to be followed by the Single Vineyard and Appelation wines.
- In the relatively near future I will be receiving the recent releases, both mevushal and not, in the recently released and soon to be released wines of the Private Collection, Selected and Vino series. I will of course, be writing about those after tastings in my own tasting room.
Now to the tasting notes….
Best,
Rogov
Carmel, Johannisberg Riesling, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Off-dry but bright and lively, with fine focus and balancing acidity. Unoaked and showing tempting peach and apple flavors, those set off nicely by floral and mineral edges. No decision reached yet whether to release the wine in the Single Vineyard Series or in the Regional Series but however it makes its way to market, elegant and satisfying. Drink from release-2008. Score 90. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Ramat Arad, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel and then with about 25% of the wine transferred to French oak. Medium-bodied, lively and with grapefruit and passion fruits backed up by grassy and floral input that makes the wine harmonious and tempting even at this early stage. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Chardonnay, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): After gentle pressing and cold fermentation, aging partly in new and partly 1 year old 300 liter French barrels, and already showing elegance and focus. Crisp and fresh and on the nose and palate rich apple, pear, fig and light toasty notes coming together very nicely indeed. A kind of easy elegance. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Private Collection, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, aged partly in French and American oak, partly in stainless steel, this dark garnet, medium-bodied red shows near-sweet tannins and generous currant and blueberry aromas and flavors. Not complex but lithe and easy to drink with hints of pepper and cedar on the moderately-long finish. Drink from release-2008. Score 86. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Carignan, Zichron Ya'akov, Appelation Series, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): If anyone ever gave Carignan a bad name in Israel it was Carmel but the winery is now going along with the local and international trend to return the good name this grape deserves. Made from low yield grapes (600 kilos per dunam) selected from 30 year old vines, this full-bodied, firmly tannic wine is already showing an appealing ripe cherry, berry, peppery and spicy aromas and flavors, those on a light earthy and smoky background and is perhaps destined to develop a meaty overlay as it develops. Drink from release-2008, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Merlot, Upper-Galilee, Appelation Series, 2003: Blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauvignon this deep garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with mouth-coating tannins integrating well to show appealing plum, wild berry and spicy oak, all with a pleasing hint of bitter-earthiness running through. Drink now-2008. Score 88. K (Retasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Merlot, Upper-Galilee, Appelation Series, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with tannins now integrating nicely, this still young wine opens slowly but when it does it offers up appealing black currant and blueberry fruits, those with a light overlay of oak and appealing green pepper and eucalyptus aromas and flavors. Fresh, generous and elegant. Drink from release -2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Zarit, Single Vineyard, 2002: Dark cherry-red, this medium to full-bodied wine shows soft tannins and generous vanilla and smoky overtones. First impressions are of berries and eucalyptus, those yielding to currants, vanilla, black tea, green peppers, and a light spiciness that lingers nicely on the moderately long finish. Warm, round and well balanced. Drink now- 2008. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Zarit, Single Vineyard, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, with firm, near sweet tannins that yield nicely in the glass to reveal an appealing touch of rustic earthiness that adds dimension to rich, ripe black fruits. Complex, concentrated and on its way to elegance. Best 2007–2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Zarit, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with tannins perhaps best described as adding solidity to the wine, and with fine balance between those, spicy wood and fruits. Following ripe cassis, blackcurrant and blackberry notes, vanilla, mineral, eucalyptus and tobacco, all coming together in a complex, well focused and long finish. Best from 2007-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kayoumi, Single Vineyard 2003: Developing beautifully since barrel tasting (January 2005). As then, luscious and elegant, deep garnet, full-bodied and softly tannic, the nose and palate still showing the blackcurrant, berry and spicy wood that was here but now also showing smoked bacon together with Oriental spices and tobacco. Drink now-2014. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kayoumi, Single Vineyard, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Showing even better than at an earlier barrel tasting (January 2005). Full-bodied, with firm tannins now integrating nicely to reveal a rich array of cassis, blackberry, purple plum, sage and mineral aromas and flavors, those coming together in a long, still somewhat tannic but elegant finish. Best 2007-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Shiraz, Kayoumi, Single Vineyard, 2003: Showing as well now as during barrel tastings. Firm and well-structured and with balance that bodes well for a soft, caressing and elegant future. Generous soft tannins here to show off a tempting array of currant, plum, blackberry and anise flavors and aromas, all of which culminate in a long, mouthfilling finish. Approachable young but best from 2008-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Shiraz, Kayoumi, Single Vineyard, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Intense and concentrated, dense and fragrant, with ripe tannins well on their way to silkiness. On the nose and palate raspberries, black cherries, black pepper, licorice as well as generous but well balanced doses of spicy oak and earthiness. Needs time to show its supple and stylish elegance. Best from 2008-2015. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Limited Edition, 2003 (Advance Tasting): I was told at yesterday's tasting at the winery that I was the first person from outside of the winery to taste this wine. What made me smile was that my hosts forgot that I was already privileged to tasting a tentative barrel blend of this wine a year ago. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, about 24% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot and 2% of Cabernet Franc, this may be a Bordeaux blend but by heaven, if it does not call to mind Rhone Chateauneuf-du-Pape it will call to mind nothing at all! Generous but not overpowering wood here, that balanced well by soft tannins and well-tuned acidity. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, gooseberries, spices and sweet cedar wood, all integrating nicely and coming together in a long and intense but elegant finish. Best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Kerem Sha'al, Single Vineyard, 2004: My earlier tasting note (9 Sep 2005) hold firmly: Made from grapes harvested in the upper Golan Heights, some of which were affected by botrytis. Medium-bodied, with generous sweetness set off nicely by good balancing acidity and on the nose and palate apricot, cinnamon, rose petal and honeyed flavors. Rich, spicy and elegant with a long silky finish. Drink now-2009. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 20 Dec 2005)
