Thursday, 10 January 2008 was at the Carmel winery in Rishon LeTzion that I found myself, there in the company of winemakers Lior Laxer and Sam Soroka (the first Carmel's senior winemaker and the second in charge of the upper-level wines at Zichron Ya'akov) and with Adam Montefiore, there to do a series of advance tastings, those from the upper-level Appelation (Ayzorit) and Single Vineyard series as well as of the 2005 Special Edition. Single bottles of the wines in both the Private Collection and Selected wines will be making their way to my home for in-house blind tastings in the near future.

My thanks to Lior, Sam, and Adam and all at the winery for a warm greeting, a good tasting and a pleasant light lunch afterwards. On the off chance anyone is wondering what critics and winemakers generally drink after extensive tastings – wonder no further – draught beer rates right at the top.

Best
Rogov

Appelation

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The first Sauvignon Blanc released in this series. With a mere 7% of the wine aged in new 300 liter French barrels and the rest very cold fermented and developed in stainless steel, the wine guards the varietal nature of the grape. Bright and lively, with passion fruit, pink grapefruit, green apple, and just tart enough citrus fruits backed up by gooseberries, grassy and mineral notes. Lingers nicely and finishes with high-style. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Johannisberg Riesling, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Intentionally late harvested, having undergone cold fermentation and developed entirely in stainless steel tanks. Despite its youth, already opens with a petrol-rich nose (it often takes Riesling five or more years to show that), that going on to reveal good green apple, lemon custard and mineral flavors and aromas, all leading to a rich pink-grapefruit finish. Off-dry but with good balancing acidity. Approachable at release but I'd hold this one until 2009 to start drinking. Score 89. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Viognier, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The first Viognier release in this series and a resounding success. With 75% cold fermented in stainless steel and the remainder in barriques, that aged sur lie for 4 months. With a bare, tantalizing hint of spicy oak on the nose as it opens, that yielding to an array of spicy pear, grapefruit and tangerine fruits all on a supple and just spicy enough frame. Simultaneously refreshing and rich. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Off-dry, lively and well balanced with peach, apricot and citrus peel notes highlighted by a light hint of spiciness. Appealing floral and citrus peel on the finish. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Appelation, Upper Galilee 2006 (Advance Tasting): A medium- to full-bodied blend of 50% of each of the varieties, those oak-aged for 12 months in French oak barrels of which about 30% were new. Dark garnet in color, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins parting to reveal a tempting array of blackberry and plum fruits, those on a background of spices and, coming in near the finish and lingering nicely hints of leather and vanilla. Drink now-2010. Score 89. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Merlot, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Medium- to full-bodied, opens with a plum-rich nose that shifting on the palate to berry, black cherry and cassis fruits all supported nicely by hints of white pepper and eucalyptus. Best 2009-2011, possibly longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Carignan, Old Vines, Appelation, Zichron Ya'akov, 2006 (AdvanceTasting): A super-dark garnet blend of 85% Carignan and 15% Petit Verdot, the Carignan from 35-40 year old, very low yield wines with no irrigation. A blockbuster on first attack but the firm tannins and generous wood settling down nicely to reveal a rich array of plum, red cherry, raspberry and currant fruits all supported nicely by hints of cocoa and spices. Look as well for a generous mocha-rich finish. Approachable now but best 2009-2011. Score 90. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Petite Sirah, Old Vines, Appelation, Judean Hills, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A big wine, full-bodied, deep garnet towards royal purple, with gripping tannins just now starting to settle down but showing fine structure between tannins, wood and fruits. Dark and delicious, with ripe plum, blackberry, and boysenberry notes, those on a background of minerals, minted chocolate and spicy cedar wood. Approachable now but somewhat chewy. Give this one time to show its harmony and elegance. Best from 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 91. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Carmel Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, Regional, Judean Hills, 2004: Drinking a bit smoother now but my earlier tasting note holds firmly: With Tawny-Port-style chocolate, raisins and spice box aromas, this rich dessert wine opens to reveal coffee and a hint of bitter almonds to balance the sweetness. Drink now–2010. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Single Vineyard

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark towards inky garnet in color, full-bodied enough to be thought of as dense with firm tannins integrating now to show fine structure and balance. Opens with a strong gamy aroma but that fades quickly in the glass to reveal black currants, purple plums and black olives, those highlighted by reined acidity and notes of tar and smoky oak. Long, with meaty flavors and fruits rising on the juicy finish. Best 2009-2013. Score 92. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet with green and orange reflections, full-bodied, open textured and generous showing a spicy, peppery mouthful of blackberry, currant, coffee and black olive notes all leading to a long, round and mouth-filing finish. As this one develops look for an appealing hint of smoked meat rising. Approachable now but best 2009-2013. Score 91. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Single Vineyard, Sha'al, 2007 (Tank Sample): Gold, with orange and green tints, medium- to full-bodied, with generous sweetness balanced by lively acidity. Shows litchi, ripe peaches, rose petals, honey and, pineapple aromas and flavors, all coming together in a harmonious whole and, on the long finish notes of freshly baked pecan pie. Drink from release-2011. Score 91. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)

Limited Edition

Carmel, Limited Edition, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (60%, 18%, 18% and 4% respectively). Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and reflecting its 15 months in barriques, showing light toasty and spicy oak. With super-soft tannins, not quite as deep as earlier releases of this wine but showing both complexity and elegance. Blackberry and black cherry fruits on first attack, those yielding to blackcurrants and appealing hints of lead pencil and vanilla and, on the moderately-long finish a near-sweet tobacco note. Drink from release-2012. Score 91. K (Tasted 10 Jan 2008)