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>> Rogov's Tastes » Carmel - Oct. 2004

Carmel unveiled five wines in its new "Regional Series. The event took place at Yo'ezer Wine Bar in Jaffa and, knowing that quite a few people would be showing up and a meal was to be served, I demonstrated my usual chutzpah by showing up quite early in order to do a quiet and more formal tasting.

Before the tasting notes and considering some of the developments and the addition of several new series of wines for Carmel – a few comments and observations. Carmel's top series now is their "Single Vineyard Wines" - the most recent releases in which are reviewed at http://stratsplace.zeroforum.c...=7029 . That series will be followed by the new Regional Series, that by the Private Collection wines and those by the wines in the Selected Series. Interestingly, and as a possible portent ot the future, when I inquired of winery CEO David Ziv, he said that the Private Collection Series would be continued "at least for now".

As to the new series, several additional comments, the first of which deals with what I consider the truly delightful labels - each wine carrying a stylized and somewhat frivolous picture of a different animal (camels, deers, ostriches, etc). To tell the truth, the labels please not only because of their visual value but because perhaps intentionally or perhaps not Carmel seems to be making a statement that there should be at least some "fun aspect" to wine. I could not agree more – not everything that surrounds wine has to be formal and sometimes a smile is well in place.

I do have a small problem with the name of the series, for it seems to me that a "regional" wine should come from a specific region and, as will be seen in the tasting notes that follow, three of the five wines are blends from two different regions. This complaint on my part is a minor one in that it does not reflect on the integrity of the winery, for the wines and the sources of the grapes are clearly noted on each label. Thus, my minimal complaint is only with the possible choice of name of the series.

Finally, all of the wines in the new series share several common traits. All are made in order to be accessible and enjoyable on release; all are medium- to full-bodied, all are aged in oak and reflect that clearly but gently; and all are meant for only medium-term cellaring (that is to say 2 – 3 years). As to the quality of the wines and their value for money, the tasting notes that follow speak for themselves.

As to the lunch that followed my tasting, what can I say for it is already well known that I am much a fan of Yo'ezer's blinis with red caviar and creme fraiche, tartar salmon and gravad lax. Nor did I have any complaints whatever about the lovely truffled gnocchi, the excellent hot corned beef, the beautifully rare roast beef or the succulent leg of lamb.

Best,
ROGOV


Carmel, Merlot, Upper Galilee and Ramat Arad, Regional Series, 2001: Deep garnet towards purple, medium- to full-bodied and reflecting generous but well integrated tannins after aging in new French oak for 14 months. Compact and well focused, showing aromas and flavors of cedary oak, red currants, violets and dark chocolate. On the medium-long finish look as well for appealing hints of spices and tobacco. Drinking nicely now – 2006. NIS 71. Score 87. (Tasted 12 Oct 2004) (*)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Upper Galilee and Ramat Arad, Regional Series, 2001:
 Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and aged for 14 months in small oak barrels, this deep purple, medium- to full-bodied red shows good balance between wood, soft tannins and fruits. On the nose and palate red and black berries, purple plums and a hint of eucalyptus on the medium-long finish. Drink now-2006. NIS 77. Score 88. (Tasted 12 Oct 2004) (*)

Carmel, Cabernet Franc, Jerusalem Mountains, Regional Series, 2002:
Made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, this deep ruby towards garnet wine shows good balance between medium- to full- body, generous but soft tannins and currant and berry fruits together with the lead-pencil sensation one often finds in the wines of this variety from Bordeaux. Aged for 14 months in new and used French oak, the wine is drinking nicely now and will cellar comfortably until 2006, perhaps longer. NIS 71. Score 88, (Tasted 12 Oct 2004) (*)

Carmel, Chardonnay, Galilee, Regional Series, 2003:
 Oak fermented and then allowed to develop sur lie for 9 months, this light gold, medium-bodied white offers up a generous mouthful of summer and tropical fruits, those matched nicely by crisp minerals and just the right feel of the oak. Drink now-2006. NIS 59. Score 88. (Tasted 12 Oct 2004) (*)

Carmel, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Upper Galilee and Ramat Arad, Regional Series, 2003:
 A blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc from Ramat Arad and 20% Chardonnay from the Upper Galilee, this wine was fermented in stainless steel and then transferred to new French oak barriques to develop sur lie for 6 months. Clean, light- to medium-bodied, with generous acidity and appealing grapefruit and melon flavors. Bound to be a popular quaffer. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 51. Score 86. (Tasted 12 Oct 2004)

 


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