I spent a morning at Ramat Raziel in the Jerusalem Mountains visiting the Domaine de Castel, there doing barrel, advance and re-tastings.

I well remember owner-winemaker Eli Ben Zaken's first release of a mere 600 bottles in 1992 because there was indeed something very special and unique about that wine, that wine boding very well for the future. Since that time the winery, with Ben Zaken remaining at the helm and now working with his son Ariel and son-in-law Arnon Geva, has grown to an annual production of about 100,000 bottles annually. Neither that growth nor the release of his first kosher wine from the 2002 vintage and the switchover to full kashrut in 2003 has changed the reality that Castel has consistently made some of the country's very best wines

Tell me I award too-high scores to Israeli wines if you like, but I promise that the wines I tasted today will stand comfortably next to the best of anyplace on our little planet. Whatever, my thanks to Eli, Ariel and Arnon for a short, sweet and very rewarding tasting, the tasting notes from which follow.

Best
Rogov

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend, but already showing full-bodied, tannic enough to be thought of as muscular but with the kind of structure and balance that promise a wine that is simultaneously concentrated and elegant. On the nose and palate black currants, red plums and blackberries, those matched nicely by what promises to be spicy wood and hints of Mediterranean herbs. A wine that comfortably marries the grapes of Bordeaux with the terroir of the Jerusalem Mountains. Best from 2009-2014. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards inky blak in color, full-bodied, with firm but yielding tannins integrating nicely with smoky wood. On the nose and palates, raspberries, blackcurrants, vanilla, and chocolate, those yielding on long, long finish to hints of licorice, tobacco and chocolate. Generous and elegant. Tentative Score 93-95. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Castel, Grand Vin Castel, 2003: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied and with its firm tannins now integrating nicely. A multilayered wine, on first attack revealing blackcurrants, blackberries and spices, those yielding to purple plums and near-sweet cigar tobacco and finally, on the long finish hints of mint and a tantalizing earthy-herbal overtone. Showing even better than earlier and showing excellence in every way. Approachable now but best from 2008-2012, perhaps longer. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied and with soft tannins, this caressing red opens with a chocolate and berry-rich nose, those carrying over to the palate and joined by cassis, black cherries, dark plums and black pepper, all lingering gently on a long, polished and round finish. Elegant and supple, perhaps the best Petit Castel to date. Drink from release-2011. Score 92. (Tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Rich, complex and opulent, with layer after layer of citrus, fig, pear, apricot, spices and smoky, toasty oak, a wine that opens beautifully on the palate, offering up forward flavors and aromas while maintaining its sense of finesse and elegance. Approachable from release but best 2007-2010. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Castel, Chardonnay "C", 2004: Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied with generous but intentionally subdued influences of the wood. Deeply aromatic with tempting citrus, melon, pear and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, those coming to a creamy and long finish. Best 2007-2009. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2006)

Also tasted from barrels, the winery's first Malbec, that from the 2005 vintage. Destined not for a varietal release but for blending into the Grand Vin, Malbec at its most traditional – dark, almost impenetrable purple in color, full-bodied, deeply tannic and intense but surprisingly round, with a delicious array of black fruits, chocolate and, as it lingers on the palate an enchanting hint of sweetened chewing tobacco.