ON Wednesday, 23 January 2008 I made my way to the Golan Heights to visit and do tastings with winemaker Uri Hetz at Chateau Golan. To my surprise and pleasure, the sky was blue and although crisply cool, far from cold, in fact the coldest place we visited being the extensive cellars of the winery. Tastings took two forms – barrel and tank tastings from the 2007 vintage, those almost entirely from components and advance tastings from the 2006 vintage.

My tasting notes follow. Also posted, recent tasting notes for the 2005 wines now released. For those trying to decode my methodology – those wines tasted from components almost surely meant for blending, the blends yet unknown even to the winemaker are now awarded scores. The great advantage to tasting such wines is to gain a glimpse into how both vineyards are developing and how the winemaker perceives the future development of his wines.

My thanks to Uri and others at the winery for a fine tasting, for good discussion and good company, and for some nice cheeses, salami and pate after the tasting. And, of course, for several cups of espresso.

Rogov

2007 Barrel Tastings

Chateau Golan, Sauvignon Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): With 60% of the wine fermented and developing sur lie in 350 liter barrels and 40% of the wine developing in stainless steel but already showing the promise of being an medium-bodied, aromatic wine with generous notes of citrus and orange peel together with a charming hint of what Jancis Robinson so appropriately called "cat's peel on a mulberry bush". Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Grenache, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark ruby towards garnet, smooth and velvety with generous plum, cherry and currant fruits all hinting at sweet spices and leading to a long finish on which mineral and a light salty note creep comfortably in. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied and concentrated enough to be thought of as dense, and well structured enough that the 15.5% alcohol content slides by comfortably. Whether the light sensation of sweetness comes from the tannins or the alcohol is difficult to say at this moment but a stylish wine with plum, licorice, violet and graphite notes that run to a long and generous finish. Enticing. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 89-91 (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Franc, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): This could be a textbook Loire Valley Cabernet Franc, especially when one looks at the area of Chinon. Smooth and velvety, with plenty of tannins but those soft and gently mouth-coating and opening to show black cherry currant, blueberry and tobacco notes, those complemented by hints of tobacco. As this one develops look for hints of green olives and briar. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 22 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, well extracted, deep and concentrated, showing generous soft tannins. Generous blackberry, licorice and chocolate here, those parting to revel hints of raspberries and cassis all leading to a long, lightly toasty finish. Delicious even at this super-early stage but deserves time. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 90-92 (Tasted 22 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, one medium-bodied with gentle tannins and distinct hints of elegance, the second darker in color, more intense and concentrated. As predictions go, destined to be medium- to full-bodied, smooth and with gentle but mouth-coating tannins opening to show blackberry and currant fruits that become supple and hold one's attention to the end. Best from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 22 Jan 2008)

2007 – From the Barrel But Strictly Component Tastings

Chateau Golan, French Colombard, 2007 (Tank Tasting): Fresh and lively, loaded with pear, citrus and floral aromas and flavors a refreshing and thoroughly pleasant but not overly complex white, almost certainly destined for blending. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Grenache Blanc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): A distinctive white, with floral aromas and flavors matched nicely by spicy nuts, ginger, figs and green apples all with a hint of lime on the finish. Reminds me of the delightful Grenache Blanc wines of Languedoc's Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes. Alas, destined for blending. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Viognier, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Relatively light but rich, ripe and fragrant, with pear, spicy and floral aromas and flavors that hold through to a long finish on which generous metallic and flinty elements rise along with a hint of almonds.. For blending. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Mourvedre, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Its medium-body and cherry red color reflecting that this was made from very young vines, but with soft tannins a gentle and round wine with raspberry, black cherry, blackberry and chocolate notes with just the barest hint of grilled meat creeping in. Might make a lovely quaffer but destined for blending. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Petit Verdot 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Delicious even now but another "alas" for destined only for blending. Supple and velvety, with gently mouth-coating tannins and appealing currant, berry and floral notes that carry on nicely to a long fruity and lightly minted finish. (Tasted 23 Jan 2008)

2006 and 2007 Barrel and Advance Tastings

Chateau Golan, Eliad, Royal Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, full-bodied and with fine balance and structure, a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3.5% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot. Opens with red and black berries, those joined by blackcurrant and black cherries, those supported by a light note of spicy oak and sweet cedar wood. Ripe, round and generous, will most assuredly call to mind Bordeaux with a Mediterranean hint added by notes of fresh herbs and black olives. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Gsehem, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 81% Grenache, 14% Syrah and 5% of Mourvedre, each developed separately and having spent a total of 13 months in barriques. Medium-dark garnet, medium-bodied, opening quietly on the nose but showing very nicely indeed on the palate, opening to reveal raspberry, blueberry, cherries and red currant fruits, those supported nicely by vanilla and hints of spices and bittersweet chocolate. Long and generous. Best 2009-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Syrah, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark garnet towards royal purple in color, full-bodied, this blend of 89% Syrah, 8% Grenache and 3% Syrah was aged in oak for 12 months. Soft tannins and spicy wood are in fine proportion with fruits and acidity. On the nose and palate ripe blackberries and plums, those matched nicely by spices and hints of citrus peel and saddle leather. Best 2009-2012. Score 90. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing much as at barrel tastings. Medium-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins, opens with a green, veggie nature but changes quickly in the glass to currants and damson plums, all with an exotic spicy note that creeps in from mid-palate and lingers through the finish. Vibrant and just complex enough to grab attention. Drink from release–2011. Score 89. 9Re-tasted 23 Jan 2008)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Cabernet Sauvignon bended with 9% Cabernet Franc, 3.5% Syrah and 1.5% Petit Verdot. Oak aged for 12 months medium-dark garnet, with a hint of sweetness on the nose, turning firm on the palate with mouth-coating tannins and hints of wood. Opens to light oak and mocha, which support currants, blackberries and a hint of vanilla bean that adds a nice touch; tannins and fruits rising on the finish. Best 2009–2012. Score 89. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2008).

2005- Currently on the Market

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2005: Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, this wine is both concentrated and elegant. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc, opening with spicy, mocha-tinged black currants, those yielding to blackberries, herbs and light oak. Hints of light sea salt and leather on the super-long finish make the wine intriguing. Perhaps the best yet from the winery. Best 2009–2015. Score 94.

Chateau Golan, Eliad, 2005: Aged in French oak for 13 months, this blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Syrah opens with rich, almost syrup-like fruits on the nose, and goes on to show depth and grace. Soft tannins, light smoky wood, fine-grained tannins in good balance with berry, black cherry, currants and licorice. Drink now–2012. Score 93.

Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, 2005: Blended with 3% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged in large French barrels for 11 months. Dark, rich and plush from first attack, opening to show a tempting array of spicy blackberry, raspberry, red currants and pomegranate fruits, those matched nicely by hints of citrus peel. Bold, with distinctly Old-World charm, showing a light greenness, minerality and tantalizing meaty notes. Long and generous. Drink now-2012. Score 92.