As I have observed before, one of the pleasures in visiting a young winery is in the ability to taste literally every wine they have produced. So it was on Monday, 13 December 2004, when visiting Clos de Gat winery.

Before the tasting notes, several comments, the most important of which is that every one of my earlier tasting notes is holding firmly, this reflecting well of course on the young winery. That the winery is now up to an annual production of about 60,000 bottles, all of which are proving excellent, and that the ego of the winemaker is still comfortably contained within his body also bode well. From a technical point of view, interesting and important to note that the winery is now switching over fully to the use of wild yeasts, that none of the wines are being filtered, and that a second wine, Har'El is soon going to be introduced to the market is also noteworthy. As I have also commented before, wines of this quality simply are not going to be inexpensive. Based on current and projected prices, however, I continue to judge all of these as excellent value for money.

Best,
Rogov

Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2003 (Advance Tasting) Delicious medium- to full-bodied Chardonnay with ripe pineapple, citrus, apple and spicy notes. Enough mineral crispness here to make one think of fine Chablis, with a good touch of toasty oak but with balancing acidity that carries the wine very well indeed. Drink now-2007, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2002: My earlier tasting note holds fully: Full-bodied with ripe pear and pineapple aromas and flavors on the first attack, these yielding beautifully to citrus flowers, apple, and ripe apricots, all on a spicy background. Fermented and aged sur lie in French oak barrels, the wine has very good balance between lively acidity, intentionally underplayed oak and minerals, and a creamy, mouth-filling sensation. Drink now–2007. Score 91. (Re-tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Clos de Gat, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A complex, rich, ripe blend of 66%Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot. Spicy cherry, currant, anise and oak flavors fold togther seamlessly even at this early stage. Full bodied, still quite tannic but with the potential to show elegance and harmony. Best 2006-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Clos de Gat, 2002: My earlier tasting note holds fully: A very good effort considering the problematic 2002 vintage. Good touches of the wood and somewhat firm tannins, but those well balanced by ripe currant and plum fruits as well as sage, cedar and vanilla flavors. Still young, the wine will be at its best from 2005–2007. Score 89. (Re-tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Clos de Gat, 2001: My earlier tasting note holds fully: A deep ruby-garnet full-bodied unfiltered blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, with generous soft tannins that integrate beautifully, this is a wine that can honestly be said to reflect its terroir. Overlaying traditional Cabernet black currants are generous hints of green olives, basil, tarragon and other Mediterranean herbs. The wine shows good balance and structure, with chocolate and leather coming in on the long finish. Best 2005–2009. Score 90. (Re-tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Har'El, Syrah, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, this dark garnet, medium-bodied wine has soft, already well-integrating tannins. Well balanced and structured, spicy, with an earthy overtone to its plum and wild berry flavors, and with a light leathery hint on the long finish. Best 2006-2009. Score 91. (Tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Har'El, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Advance Tasting): An oak-aged blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, this medium-bodied, softly tannic wine shows abundant raspberry, ripe cherry and currant fruits, those matched nicely by moderate oak and a hint of anise. Surprisingly complex and inviting for a second wine. Drink from release-2007. Score 89. (Tasted 13 Dec 2004)

Nor did we ignore barrel tastings during my visit, many of which (especially a 2003 Merlot and the 2003 Clos de Gat and a 2004 Chardonnay) showing extraordinary potential for excellence. It remains too early to post tasting notes on those at this stage. Aside from which, even we wine critics have to hold something back for future columns and articles. I shall, of course, taste all of the new wines again on release and will then post updated tasting notes as/if required.