It was back to the Jerusalem Hills for me relatively early Tuesday, 8 January 2008 morning this time to visit the Clos de Gat winery and there to do tastings with winemaker Eyal Rotem. Rotem may not yet have an espresso machine on hand but by heaven, using minimum intervention and bottling without either fining or filtration, he does make good wines and well continues to deserve his place as one of the ten best wineries in the country.
Because the 2007 wines are still undergoing malolactic fermentation, I did not do barrel tastings from that vintage year. That will be a "must-do" activity for me in mid-March.
My thanks to Rotem and to William White (the winery's representative abroad) for a rewarding tasting and their courtesies during my visit.
Best
Rogov
Clos de Gat, Chanson, 2007: A well-crafted unoaked blend of Chardonnay, Semillon, Viognier and Chenin Blanc (about 75%, 15%, 7% and 3% respectively). Pale but sparkling golden in color with orange reflections, medium-bodied, opening with minerals and citrus fruits, those opening in the glass to reveal passion fruits and ripe melon. Long, lively and thought-provoking. Drink from release-2010. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Chanson, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: A blend of 70% Chardonnay, 15% Semillon, and 6-8% each of Viognier and Chenin Blanc that comes together in ways that delight. Light gold, medium-bodied, with fine balancing acidity and showing an array of lemon, quince, green apple, stony minerals and floral aromas and flavors that go on to a long and lively finish. Easy to drink but surprisingly complex. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 92. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Chardonnay, 2006: Developed sur lie for 12 months in French oak, wisely using only 25% of new oak before the final blend was made, and thus showing a light, almost tantalizing hint of the wood. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine balance between wood, acidity and fruits. Opens with citrus, citrus flowers and citrus rind, those yielding to hints of melon and spiced apples all lingering long and comfortably on the finish. Simultaneously hedonistic, elegant and complex Drink now-2010, perhaps longer. Score 92. (Tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Har'El, 2006: Dark, almost inky garnet in color, full-bodied, with tannins that are firm on first attack but yield nicely in the glass to reveal fine balance with a genteel hand with spicy oak, good balancing acidity and fruits. Blended, Bordeaux style, with 9% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot On the nose and palate opens with raspberries, those then going to purple plums, blackberries and currants, all intertwined with a pleasing overlay of Mediterranean herbaceousness. Well crafted. Approachable now but best 2009-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Syrah, Har'El, 2006: Dark garnet towards royal purple, blended with 15% of Cabernet Sauignon and oak aged for 15 months (about 1/3 new oak). Full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and fine balance and structure. Opens slowly in the glass at this stage but when it does, it does so with gusto, showing plum, red berry and cassis fruits, those on a generously but well proportioned spicy background. Long, round and elegant. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2013 Score 93. (Tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, 2005: Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon flushed out with, Merlot and Petit Verdot, oak-aged for 20 months. Dark garnet, with purple and green reflections, full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins integrating gently with spicy oak. Opens slowly showing currant, blackberries, slate and cedary oak, those yielding to raspberries and mocha and culminating in a long mouth-filling finish. Best 2009–2013. Score 93. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, 2004: Dark, full-bodied, firmly tannic, with generous spicy wood, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot shows fine harmony but still needs time to integrate. The wine opens to reveal currant, blackberry, spicy oak and hints of licorice and light earthiness. Drinking nicely now but best 2009–2012. Score 93. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Merlot, Har'El, 2005: Deep and dark, full-bodied, with still gripping tannins integrating well and with generous spicy wood all coming together to show round and generous. Deeply aromatic, pens to reveal aromas and flavors of red currants, raspberries and chocolate, those yielding later to generous hints of chocolate and toasted rye bread. On the long, intense finish look for hints of minerals and licorice. Drink now-2012. Score 92. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Syrah, Sycra, 2004: Oak-aged for 20 months. Full-bodied, with oak that at one moment seems spicy and at the next smoky but never dominating; with firm tannins integrating nicely now. A dense, almost muscular wine but one that sits gently and opens to show a tempting array of cherry, berry and currant fruits, those on a just spicy enough background to highlight hints of freshly roasted coffee. Well focused, intense and long. Drinking nicely now but best 2009-2012. Score 94. (Re-tasted 8 Jan 2008)
Clos de Gat, Merlot, Sycra, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): I had to twist the winemaker's arm to let me sample this one from the barrel but the arm-twisting was well worth the effort. Still in its infancy but already showing full-bodied, rich and concentrated with bold aromas and flavors of currants, purple plums and mocha opening slowly to yield to blackberry and light herbal overtones. Remarkably long. Best from 2009-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 8 Jan 2008)
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