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>> Rogov's Tastes » Efrat - May 2005

For nearly twenty years I have been listening quietly and hopefully, albeit with a healthy dose of skepticism to the people at Efrat wineries as they told me how they were going to plant new vineyards, leave their outmoded winery in Motza and build a state-of-the-art winery and bring their wines into the realm where they would be of interest to even the most sophisticated wine lovers.

Founded in 1870 by the Teperberg family, in the Jewish quarter of the old city of Jerusalem, for most of its history the winery produced primarily sacramental wines for the ultra-Orthodox community, but in the 1990s they also started producing table wines. If the truth be told, some of those wines were acceptable but none were exciting.

The first sign that things might truly be improving came at the Israeli wine fair held at the Scottish House in March when, to my own surprises as well as that of many others, the winery unveiled the first wines in its Teperberg Reserve series. That more people were talking about the "miracle at Efrat" more than about anything else at the fair was a sign that something indeed was afoot.

I have since tasted nearly every recent Efrat release to the market and yesterday I took the day to visit the winery. I was met by UCDavis trained winemaker Shiki Rauchberger and the first thing we did was to visit some of the winery's new vineyards. What can I say other that I was thoroughly impressed by vineyards, largely in the Ella Valley, very well located, and not over-watered and well tended vines, those intelligently cut back for ideal and not exaggerated crops.

From there it was on to a series of tastings, some re-tastings, some of wines that I had not yet tasted and several barrel tastings. The winery is currently releasing wines in several major series - Teperberg Reserve, Teperberg Selection, Israeli and Jerusalem Mountains. Former labels and private labels such as 1870 and Kinneret are being dropped and their Ninveh series has no interest to sophisticated drinkers. Annual production is currently about 3.7 million bottles, ground-breaking for the new winery is scheduled for August and anticipated production within five years is scheduled to attain 7 million bottles, those focusing increasingly on wines in the better series. Anticipating a possible question, with the exception of the wines in the Teperberg series, all of Efrat's wines are mevushal. My tasting notes follow.

On the off-chance that anyone is interested, the coffee served at the winery was, well to stay in the realm of politeness shall we say "drink now if at all".

Best,
Rogov

Tepperberg Reserve

Teperberg Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, still in embryonic form but already showing full-body with soft tannins in good balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate, black currants, plums and tantalizing hints of lead-pencils, tobacco and asphalt leading to a long, mouthfilling finish. Perhaps the very best to date from Efrat. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 89-91.K (Tasted 4 May 2004)

Tepperberg Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards purple, still reflecting its youth with firm tannins and somewhat closed aromas and flavors but with balance and structure that bode very well for the future. Needs time in the glass but when it does open, a lovely wine, with all of its elements in harmony. Look for aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, blackberries and black cherries, those moving aside gently to reveal Oriental spices and hints of leather and earthiness on what promises to be a very long finish. Best 2007-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 4 May 2004)

Teperberg Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Youthful royal purple, full-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins and appealing aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries and wild berries. Well balanced. Drink now-2007. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)

Teperberg Reserve, Meritage, 2003: This full-bodied Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc shows deep ruby towards garnet color, spicy oak, soft tannins and appealing plum, currant and berry fruits. Round and well-balanced. Drink now-2007. NIS 55. Score 87. K

Teperberg Reserve, Chardonnay, 2004 (BarrelTasting): Deep golden yellow in color, medium-bodied, with citrus and summer fruits on a crisply-dry, mineral-rich background. Calls to mind Chablis. Tentative Score 87-89. Drink now-2006. (Tasted 4 May 2004)

Teperberg Reserve, Chardonnay, 2003: Fermented and developed sur lie in French oak barrique for six months, this medium- to full-bodied white shows appealing citrus, pear and melon fruits, those on a lightly spicy, round and creamy background. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 87. K (Retated 4 May 2005)

Teperberg Reserve, Chenin Blanc, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden in color medium-bodied, with rich aromas and flavors of peaches, pears, melon and heather. Round, crisp and refreshing with hints of citrus peel on the finish. Drink from release-2006. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Teperberg Reserve, Chenin Blanc, 2003: Golden-straw colored, medium- to full-bodied, with good balance between tropical fruits and citrus, crisp acidity and light creamy and nutty overtones from the oak in which the wine was aged. Bordering on elegance. Drink now. NIS 55. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)

Tepperberg Select

Teperberg Select, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins but those showing signs of integrating nicely with smoky wood, purple plums, currants and an appealing herbaciousness. Best from release-2008. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 May 2004)

Teperberg Select, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft, almost sweet tannins well balanced by wood and fruits. Look for aromas and flavors of plums and cassis as well as hints of chocolate and fresh herbs on the finish. Best 2006-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 4 May 2004)

Teperberg Select, Chardonnay-Sauvignon, 2003: Light straw in color, with lively acidity, a hint of oak and appealing citrus and tropical fruits as well as a hint of grassiness. A good quaffer. Drink now. Score 84. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series

Israeli Series, Chardonnay, 2004: Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied and aromatic, with appealing citrus and tropical fruits backed up nicely by good natural acidity and hints of spiciness. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Emerald Riesling, 2004: A pleasant little wine, light- to medium-bodied, with floral and citrus overtones on a semi-dry background. Drink now. NIS 24. Score 83. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Light straw in color, medium-bodied, with fresh,clean fruits and good acidity to keep it lively. Appealing grapefruit, orange peel and a light herbaceousness. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Zinfandel, Blush, 2004: Light, fresh and fruity, off-dry and packed with berry, cherry and strawberry flavors. A pleasant picnic wine. Drink up. Score 83. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and berry and black cherry fruits. A simple entry-level wine. Drink now. NIS 26. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Merlot, 2004: Dark cherry red, medium-bodied with dusty tannins, perhaps too generous acidity and hints of spices. A bit skimpy on its currant and berry fruits. Drink up. NIS 25. Score 83. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)

Israeli Series, Shiraz, 2004: Bright garnet in color, medium-bodied, with country-style chunky tannins but those opening nicely in the glass to reveal somewhat stingy but pleasant enough plum and wild berry fruits. Drink now. NIS 23.Score 84. K (Re-tasted 4 May 2005)
Israeli Series, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2004: Young, fresh and lively, with soft tannins and an appealing berry-cherry personality. Hints of spices and Mediterranean herbs add complexity. Drink now. NIS 30. Score 85. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

Harai Yehuda (Judean Mountains)

Harai Yehuda, Petite Sirah, n.v.: Dar purple, medium-bodied with chunky tannins and appealing aromas and flavors of plums, berries and earthiness. A pleasing country-style wine.Drink up. NIS 17. Score 84. K (Tasted 4 May 2005)

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