On Sunday, 6 January 2008, I made my way to the Ella Valley Vineyards winery, there to meet winemaker Doron Rav Hon first for espresso and gossip and then on to barrel and advance tastings as well as several re-tastings.
I have often stated that one of the keys to success, especially for a small winery, is for its wines to clearly show the signature of the winemaker. Rav Hon is doing that nicely, his wines clearly reflecting the judicious use of oak to respect the traits of the varieties used and reflecting, as closely as possible, the wines without tricks … that is to say, without fining, over-refinement or over-manipulation … that a striving towards elegance.
It should be noted, that several of the 2007 barrel tastings were made from components and, as is often the case with wines still in embryonic taste, my tasting notes are what should be thought of as "informed predictions". I will, of course, be following these wines as they continue to develop.
My thanks to Doron Rav Hon and to the staff of the winery for a fine tasting and for their many courtesies during my visit.
Best
Rogov
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot-Cabernet Franc, Vineyard's Choice, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A full-bodied blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, dark ruby towards garnet in color and reflecting its time in oak with Oriental spices and firm tannins. Opens nicely in the glass to reveal blackberry, raspberry and dried currant fruits. Generously spicy, with a tantalizing hint of red chili rising on the super-long finish. Needs time. Approachable on release but best 2010-2013, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, firm and generous, on first attack offering up a generous mouthful of cherries and berries, those yielding to blackcurrants, figs and light cedar notes, the tannins rising to yield a near-chewy finish. Best from 2009-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and gently spicy wood reflecting its 14 months in oak. A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot showing currants, berries and hints of pepper, all eading to an aromatic and fruity finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, youthful royal purple in color at this stage, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. Rich and distinctive with light peppery and licorice hints running through the cherry and blackberry fruits. Look for hints of smoky oak on the long finish. Best from 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Wisely developed in one and two year old barrels and showing even better than during barrel tastings a year ago. Blended with 5% of Merlot, garnet towards royal purple with green and orange reflections, with appealing blackberry and black cherry fruits overlaid with notes of rose petals, opens slowly in the glass to reveal light tobacco and leathery notes, those on a background of crisp minerals. Tannins rise on the long finish to give grip to this elegant wine. Approachable on release but best 2009-2013. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Following through on what now seems to be a tradition, a full-bodied and firmly tannic Merlot but that showing round and well balanced, the tannins complemented nicely by light spicy oak. On the nose and palate generous plum, wild berry and exotic spices complemented nicely by notes of minerals and light toasty oak Best from 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing somewhat fuller in body than at barrel tastings, a solid, almost muscular wine but with gently gripping tannins in fine balance with spicy wood. Dark ruby towards garnet, showing a tempting array of raspberries, cherries and spices on a tempting earthy-mineral overlay. Long and generous. Drink from release-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple at this state of its development, showing full-bodied, with soft, gently gripping tannins and a generous mouthful of red plum, wild berry and boysenberry fruits, those complemented nicely by generous hints of peppery, spicy notes. Destined to be a savory, intense and concentrated but harmonious and elegant wine with a long spicy finish and fine balancing acidity that adds to its length and charm. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Syrah, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. Blended with 3% each of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, dark, almost inky garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, deeply aromatic and showing a generous array of blackberry, black cherry and currant notes. Long and mouth-filling. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Ever Red, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A medium-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah (57%, 35% and 8% respectively) that was developed for 14 months in barriques. In the manner to which we have become accustome, soft, near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with red berries, red currants and light oak, all showing a gentle spicy note. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Ever Red, 2005: An appealing, easy to drink and just complex enough medium-bodied blend of 45% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and 10% Petite Sirah. Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium-bodied, with soft, well-integrated tannins and appealing currant, berry and spicy overlays. Drink now–2009. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Developing partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel, promising to be a medium-bodied, crisply freshly and aromatic wine. Freshly dampened golden straw in color, showing a gentle hand with the wood with the nose and palate opening with hints of honey, flaky pastry and minerals and goes on to show yellow plum, citrus blossoms. Well structured, long and elegant. As the wine develops in bottles look for a gentle honeyed hint that will creep in. Drink from release-2012. Tentatice Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Chardonnay, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Developing beautifully, showing medium- to full-bodied, light golden in color and with flavors and aromas that seem to play on the palate, shifting from moment to moment from grapefruit and nectarine to pineapple and lemon peel and finally to orange curd, all on a crisp mineral-rich background. Vibrant and lively with a long, lightly oaky and lemon blossom finish. Drink from release-2009, perhaps a bit longer. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Light straw in color, a bright and lively wine with pear, passion fruit and grapefruit showing nicely on the nose and palate and with some appealing floral, anise and sage notes in the background. Fresh and appealing. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
From here we continued with a mini-vertical tasting of both the regular Ella Valley series and the Vineyards' Choice releases of the winery's Merlot from 2002-2004.
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, Vineyard's Choice, 2004: Dark garnet, with firm tannins integrating nicely now and showing sweet-and-spicy cedar notes, and opening to reveal red and black berries, currants and a light tobacco and herbal notes that come in on the long finish. Drink now-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2004: Blended with 5% of Cabernet Sauvignon, deep royal-purple towards garnet in color, a firm but round and well-balanced wine showing black cherry, blackcurrant and spicy cedar wood, all coming to a long finish on which the fruits rise nicely. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, Vineyard's Choice, 2003: Its youthful royal purple color and generous black cherry, berry and spices show this to be an exuberant wine, but as those come together in the glass showing full-body and firm structure one begins to feel the elegance. Softening nicely now and showing long and round with an appealing spicy oak note that rises on the finish. Drink now-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2003: My most recent tasting note (about a year ago) holds firmly: medium to full-bodied, deep garnet in color, with tannins now integrating nicely. Supple and elegant, with plum, blackberry, currant and berry fruits going to hints of cedar and spices on the long finish. Drink now–2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, Vineyard's Choice, 2002: Holding its own very nicely since a recent tasting and continuing to show full-bodied, with firm tannins and on the nose and palate a generous array of red plums, red currants, and berries those with hints of olives and a near-meaty note on the finish. Maturing nicely. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Ella Valley Vineyards, Merlot, 2002 Dark garnet in color but that now showing first hints of browning. Full-bodied, with a generous but well balanced dosage of wood and firm tannins. When first poured continues to show as it did in its youth plum and black cherry fruits but those now fading in the glass and showing first hints of oxidation. Past its peak so if you have any left, drink up. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2008)
Finally….
Ella Valley Vineyards, Muscat Dessert Wine, 2006: Full-bodied with lots of glycerin, avoiding the sometimes too-too flowery nature of the Muscat grape and with fine balancing acidity to set off the generous sweetness. Dark gold in color, sitting almost thickly but comfortably on the palate and showing both fresh and dried, honeyed apricots, those yielding to pear and raisin compote. Generous and long, [erhaps best not with dessert but as dessert. Score 91. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2008)
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