Yesterday morning found me at the Flam winery doing barrel and advance tastings.

I'm smiling and even apologize in advance as I think of another thread and add (in full humor let it be noted): In case anyone is interested about corruption, I was picked up by Gilad Flam in his not overly new automobile, the foods on the table were a few non-aromatic cheeses and bread and there was mineral water. I did not eat the cheeses, had a few slices of bread and did indeed indulge generously of the mineral water. And to show the absolute luxury of the event, after the tasting winemaker Golan Flam made us a cup of cafe botz (for those not in the know, an Israeli method of steep coffee by pouring hot water over fine coffee grounds - literally translates into "mud coffee"). The coffee was from Elite!!!

My tasting and re-tasting notes follow. I must say that the Flam brothers do not make an especially good cup of coffee but they are indeed doing something very right with their wines.

Best,
Rogov

Flam, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc, 2004 (Advance Tasting): The first white wine from Flam and a rousing success. Unoaked and retaining the fresh and unalloyed aromatic flavors of both varieties (70% Chardonnay, 30% Sauvignon Blanc), this crisply dry, medium-bodied wine shows delicious citrus, pear and summer fruit aromas and flavors, those with tempting overlays of melon, herbs and flowers.Harmonious and expressive, meant for drinking in its relativeyouth. Score 90. (Tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Superieure, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 77% Syrah and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, each fermented separately in French oak before blending. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a generous earthy-herbal Syrah background coming together nicely with plum, tobacco and blackberry fruits. Round, long, and elegant.Don't be surprised is this one reminds you of a Rhone Cornas. Best 2006-2009. Score 91. (Tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Syrah, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal purple, packed with purple plums and red berries, with generous soft tannins. Medium- to full-bodied, with dark fruits, spicy chocolate, vanilla and an herbal-tobacco finish. Best 2006-2010. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards purple, full-bodied, with a complex arra of currant, plum and berry aromas and flavors. Graceful, well-balanced and mouth-filling with not at all overwhelming cedar and spice flavors and an appealing earthy hint on the finish. Best 2006-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Rich, ripe and complex, full-bodied, with firm but already well integrating tannins and an abundance of cherry, currant, anise and spicy oak. Smooth, harmonious and with finesse. Best 2006-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Developing beautifully, my first barrel tasting note holds firmly: Dark, deep and intense, with soft, almost sweet tannins and layer after layer of berry, black cherry, anise and spice aromas and flavors that linger nicely on the palate. Still marked wood influence here but with the balance and structure that bode well for the future. The wine will need some time to soften in the bottle. Best from 2006-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 21 Dec 2004)

I re- tasted two of the Cabernet Sauvignon wines of 2003 destined for the Reserve wine. My earlier tastings were - if memory serves- on 8 August 2004 and In both cases my earlier barrel tasting notes hold firmly:

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Kerem Dishon, Upper Galilee, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, with spicy Cabernet fruits on a generous background of minerals, earthiness and herb spicy, mineral and earthy flavors along with a generous splash of toasty oak, a firm wine that already shows great complexity and depth. Excellently suited to a fine cheese platter. Needs time. Best from 2007. Tentative Score 90-92. (Re-tasted 21 Dec 2004)

Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, Karmei Yosef Vineyard, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): This full-bodied, deep purple towards black wine, made from grapes raised in the Karmei Yosef vineyards, shows rich, ripe and complex fruit, appealing influences of the wood, all coming together in ways showing complexity and finesse. Lots of currants and cherries together with hins of oak. Smooth tannins, good but not exaggerated wood will make this one approachable early but best only from 2006 – 2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Re-tasted21 Dec 2004)

December 2004