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>> Rogov's Tastes » Galil Mountain - Jan. 2005

 

On 12 January 2005, after a 06:45 flight to Rosh Pina and a drive to the Galil Mountain Winery, the first thing in order after warm hellos was most definitely a cup of coffee. To his credit, winemaker Gaby Sadan grinds his coffee fresh and uses a French press. Not at all bad as early morning coffee goes!

Far more important, after coffee I undertook a series of barrel, advance and re-tastings, those including among others mini-verticals of each of the releases and future releases of the winery's Yiron and Pinot Noirs. That Galil Mountain, founded which released its first wines from the 2000 vintage has established itself as one of the ten best wineries in the country and is producing consistently excellent wines at prices that cannot help but be thought of as very good value for money is beyond question. To me (both as critic and wine lover) perhaps no less important is that no matter where I taste these wines I always smile, for even tasting blind it is apparent that these wines could come from no-place but Galil Mountain and that Sadan is now placing his unique signature fairly and squarely on these wines. Taste these wines often enough and what you will find is a signature that although distinctly Mediterranean and terroir related boasts a comfortable European sophistication in wines that from the simplest to the most complex are easy to approach and easy to enjoy.

Following are my tasting notes from my visit.

Best,
Rogov

Galil Mountain, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Light straw colored with orange and green reflections, this medium-bodied unoaked white offers up crisp balancing acidity to highlight its primarily melon and peach fruits. Floats in a tantalizing manner on the palate. Score 88. K (Tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Sauvignonn Blanc, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Light, shiny straw colored, this medium-bodied, unoaked white has appealing floral, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors. Lively, refreshing and long. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Pinot Noir, 2004 (Barrel Tasting) : With the potential for European elegance, an intentionally understated style that appeals with its subdued oak allowing free reign to spice, black cherry, and strawberry flavors and subtle herbal notes. Drink from relese-2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Pinot Noir 2003 (AdvanceTasting): With six months in oak, this medium- to full-bodied wine shows well integrated soft tannins and appealingplum, cherry,wild berry fruits togetherwith a light meaty-herbal overtone. A fine effort, with a long finish. Drink now-2007. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Pinot Noir, 2002: The darkest, most deeply extracted and most fruity of the Pinot Noir wines from Galil Mountain, with hints of cedar wood, soft and well-integrated tannins and with its black cherry, cedar, and Orientals spices now showing nicely. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Pinot Noir, 2001: The first and perhaps the lightest of the Pinot Noirs made by the winery, agedforoak in six months, its once youthful ruby color now darkening, the plummy, floral aromas and flavors still in place but now starting to show a few earthy-meaty hints. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Galil Mountain, Syrah, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A wine that will make you think. Deep and tannic, soft but powerful, medium- to full-bodied, integrating well and showing generous peppery black fruits and hints of grilled meat, tobacco and chocolate. Developing beautifully. Best now-2008. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted12 Jan 2005)

Yiron, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A blend this year of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Syrah. Young and vibrant but already showing its potential complexity. Dark royal purple in color, with firm but nicely integrating tannins, generous but judicious woodandlayers of spicy currant, anise, tar and cedary oak aromas and flavors. Flavors of currants, plums and anise fan out nicely on the long finish. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Yiron, 2002 (Advance Tasting): Deep purple toward black in color, with still muscular tannins that need time to subside and integrate, the wine shows an abundance of black currant, cassis and berry fruits, and what promises to be generous but well-balanced wood and a long, mouth-filling finish. Now developing appealing light herbal-earthy overtones. Drink now–2008. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Yiron, 2001: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet in color, this medium to full-bodied red, a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot, offers up generous tannins, those well balanced by oak and a tempting array of fruits including black cherries, blackberries and currants, all lingering nicely on the palate. Delicious and sophisticated. Drink now–2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Jan 2005)

Yiron, 2000: Perhaps in a brief dumb period now but no fear on this one. I'll stand with my earlier tasting note: Deep red toward purple, this medium to full-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot shows smooth, well-integrating tannins, and generous but not overpowering oak, reflecting 16 months in small oak barrels. Plum, cherry-berry and eucalyptus aromas and flavors are felt on the first attack, yielding to an appealing and gentle herbal-earthy overlay and a moderately long finish. Set aside for another six months now but then drink comfortably through 2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted12 Jan 2005)

One delightful surprise – a new and soon to be released rose wine from the winery!

Galil Mountain, Rose, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Sangiovese grapes (no fear, not a typographical error nor is Alzheimer's setting in), this crisply dry light- to medium-bodied rose manages to be refreshing, lively and fruity while maintaining a surprising level of sophistication. Not recognizable as Sangiovese but you cannot miss the berry and light spices here. An unmitigated pleasure, lightly frizzante when well chlled and as tempting as an aperitif as with food. Meant for youthful drinking but when this one is released definitely "go for it!" Score 87. K. (Tasted 15 Jan 2005)


Also tasted, both from barrels and from stainless steel were some of the still very young wines of 2004, those far from final blends and certainly not ready for formal tasting notes. Thus, only a few quick impressions. The 2004 Chardonnay from barrels shows tempting loquat aromas and flavors backed up nicely by minerals and light tropical fruit overlays; yet unblended Cabernet Sauvignon from three vineyards (Yiron, Malkiah and Misgav) show remarkably different personalities(Yiron, fresh and remarkably tannic, Malkiah, minty-earthy and aromatic; Misgav with cranberries, spices, plums, tobacco and spices), all showing great promise; as well as several yet unblended Merlots. Another happy comparison was that between the 2004 Syrah from Yiron (intense fruits, delicious Australian tendencies and that from Meron, distinctly French. As to the two Syrahs, think of the Yiron as a charming little koala bear, the second as a grizzly. All signs are that 2004 will prove a good year for the winery!

 


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