Tuesday, 6 March 2007 found me at the Golan Heights Winery at the somewhat ungodly hour of 07:30 in the morning, there first to talk with senior winemaker Victor Schoenfeld, CEO Shalom Blayer and several others of the staff and then to go on to barrel, advance and re-tastings of some 50+ wines.

In not too long a period of time the winery will be celebrating the 25th year of its founding. One can happily report that not one iota of professionalism, enthusiasm or excitement that was present "in the beginning" has been lost here. There is no question in my mind but that the Golan Heights Winery remains not only the pace-setter but the very best winery in the country.

My thanks to Shalom Blayer, Victor Schoenfeld, his entire staff of winemakers who took part in the tasting with us, as well as to Miki and Arnon who worried about and so elegantly carried out the logistics of this visit.

One note. Those wines noted as "tasted twice" were tasted first at the winery and then later in the evening in my own tasting room.

Best

Rogov

THE RED WINES

Katrzin

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as at barrel tastings. Dark garnet, full-bodied, with soft tannins and smoky oak integrating nicely. Opens with blackcurrant and berry fruits, those yielding and coming together with peppery and herbal aromas and flavors and culminating in a long blueberry and chocolate finish. Approachable from release but best 2009-2018. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 6Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2000: As written earlier, an elegant, ripe, bold and concentrated wine, the tannins now softening nicely and showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palat blackberries, red currants, black cherries and plums, those opening in layers togther with overlays of spicy oak and now showing a hint of cigar tobacco. In a quasi-dumb period at this tasting so set this one aside until 2009 and then drink comfortably until 2015. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Yarden

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Opulent and ripe, full-bodied, with generous black currant, blackberry and plum fruits supported by rich oak, generous soft mouth-coating tannins along with spices and light earthy overtones. Best 2010-2018. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Brooding dark ruby red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around blackcurrants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Best 2010-2018. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Deep and dark, brooding now until the generous smoky oak and tannins settle down to reveal the rich currant, berry and plum fruits that are here together with hints of asphalt, earthiness and spices. Approachable from release but best 2009-2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2003: Considering that this wine spent 18 months in French oak, the wood influence is surprisingly gentle, that and the soft but mouth-coating tannins supporting generous blackberry, back cherry and plum fruits. Look as well for hints of Oriental spices and, on the long finish hints of Oriental spices and a light herbal-tobacco sensation. Approachable now but best 2009-2014. Score 93. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, Yarden, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Every bit as excellent as the 2001 version of this wine. Dark ruby towards purple in color, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and an intentionally moderate oak influence. Opens with currants and minerals, goes to meaty, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors and then, to spices and a long and elegantly fruity finish. Firmly structured with excellent grip and complexity. A stunning wine, enjoyable by 2008 but best 2010-2020. Score 95. (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, Yarden, 2001: No need to change a word from my most recent tasting: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet-purple in color, full-bodied and with finely-tuned balance between generous well-integrated tannins and judicious oak, this exquisite wine shows complex tiers of aromas and flavors of red currants, berries, and spices on the first attack those later opening to include light earthy and herbal overlays. Plush and opulent, with a long, complex finish. Among the best ever made in Israel. Drink now–2013. Score 95. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards purple, medium- to full-bodied, with tannins and wood integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedar wood and, rising on the medium-long finish, a spicy overlay. Drink from release-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: This soft, smooth and polished wine shows tempting ripe cherry and currant fruits, those supported nicely by layers of Mediterranean herbs, vanilla and light hints of smoky oak. Complex, long and elegant. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden 2002: Dark garnet, with once firm tannins now integrated nicey with now gently spicy wood and showing plum and berry fruits on an herbal, citrus peel and white chocolate notes. Drinking very nicely now but not for much longer cellaring. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2001: Dark, almost inky purple in color, continuing to show the generous spicy wood that it did in its youth but with the tannins now soft and well integrated. On the nose and palate ripe plums and blackberries complemented by chocolate, spices and vanilla. On the long finish a hint of earthiness that seems on the rise. Drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, 2001: I have no need to take back any of the good words I have said about this wine in the past. Deeply aromatic, reflecting its 14 months in mostly new French barrels with generous spicy oak, that in fine harmony with ample but seamless tannins, all coming together now as in its youth in a plush and luxurious wine. Full-bodied, showing appealing aromas and flavors that open in layers, those including blackberries, near-jammy plums, chocolate, fresh herbs and, on the long finish a rising hint of Oriental spices. Drink now-2014. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Vineyard, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep, dark and still mysterious as the wine is still in its pre-natal state but already showing sweet, smoky and spicy oak well matched with mouthcoating tannins. Opens to reveal sweet back cherries, those followed by blackberries and currants and with those hints of Mediterranean herbs. Best starting in 2009. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Odem Vineyard, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Made from organically raised grapes, this Saturated ruby towards royal purple, already showing full-bodied and intense. Opens with an attack of black cherry syrup, that settling down quickly to reveal back fruits (including cherries, berries and cassis), bitter chocolate, spices. On the long finish gripping tannins rise together with an appealing hit of licorice. Needs time to settle down but the promise is here for a simultaneously muscular and elegant wine. Best starting in 2009. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Intense ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with well focused cherry fruits at the core, those opening to reveal plums, dark chocolate and espresso coffee, all leading to a lo g blackberry-rich finish. Generous, balanced and long, with wood and tannins integrating nicely. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 90-92.K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): ): Potentially the best Pinot Noir yet from the winery. Dark ruby in color, full-bodied enough to be thought of as "fleshy" and with spicy wood and gentle tannins in fine balance with acidity and fruits. Opens with near-sweet, liqueur-like berry aromas and flavors, those yielding quickly in the glass to show a crisply dry wine on which you will feel hints of kirsch, dark chocolate and lightly smoked meat, all climaxing in a long and generous blackberry finishing. This one will need generously seasoned dishes to match it. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Living up to its barrel tasting, this medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet wine is showing a complex array of aromas and flavors. Opens with blackberries and roasted pine nuts, those going to plums and black cherries that offer up an intriguing hint of anise and o the long and generous finish the fruits rising again. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2003: Garnet red I color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and a moderate hand with spicy oak. On the nose and palate forward but elegant black berry, blackberry, and cassis fruits supported nicely by hints of lightly spicy floral and earthy notes. Drink now-2011 Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2002: Drinking beautifully now, my earlier tasting note holds firmly: Medium to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins and fine balance between wood and fruit, and now coming into its own. On the nose and palate red berries, cherries, violets and cassis, those matched nicely by hints of espresso coffee and vanilla. With a long, lightly spicy and mouth-filling finish the wine is drinking beautifully now and will continue to cellar comfortably until 2009. Score 91. K (Re-tasted twice 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend, this year made from grapes from the Tel Phares vineyard. Still in its infancy but already showing commendable complexity, with aromas and flavors of plums, boysenberries, freshly turned earth, pepper and roast game meat. Full-bodied with tangy acidity and firm tannins that need time to settle down but showing fine balance and structure, those boding well for the future. Best from 2009. K Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes from the Ortal vineyard. Deeply aromatic, full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing a gentle hand with spicy oak. On the nose and palate opens with raspberries and sweet oak, those going to wild berries, pepper and hints of Oriental spices and smoked meat, all lingering nicely. Best from 2009. K Tentative Score 89-91 (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet in color, with soft tannins and generous but unimposing spicy and vanilla-rich oak coming together nicely with near-sweet berry, peach pit and plum fruits. In the background and holding well into a long finish, violets and a light earthiness. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2002: Showing beautifully now. Reflecting its 18 months in oak with medium- to full-body, showing generous soft tannins and spicy oak highlighting layers of berries, cherries plums and spices. Playing on the palate distinctive aromas and flavors of chocolate, vanilla and anise. On the long finish hints of spring flowers and espresso. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted twice 6 Mar 2007)

Gamla

Note: I do not know whether Victor set the following vertical tasting of the Gamla Cabernet Sauvignon wines with the goal of opening my eyes, but indeed that happened, each of the wines tasted showing greater cellaring capability than I had previously thought would be found.

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2004: A traditional Bordeaux blend, oak aged for 12 months and showing good balance between soft tannins, spicy oak and berry, cherry and currant fruits, those matched nicely by hints of spices on the moderately-long finish Drink now-2010. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2003: A soft, round and medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and one percent of Malbec and drinking even better than at an earlier tasting. On the nose and palate black currants and black cherries, those with spicy and herbal overlays. On the generous finish hints of vanilla and light earthiness. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2002: The usual Gamla Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Medium to full-bodied, a gentle touch of oak, soft tannins and with appealing blackcurrant, blackberry and vanilla aromas and flavors. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2001: In a somewhat awkward phase now but credit that to a delayed dumb period and simply cellar the wine for another year or so before returning to it. Medium- to full-bodied, oak aged for about 12 months, showing soft tannins and still remarkably youthful currant and berry fruits, those matched by hints of spices and on the moderately-long finish hints of tobacco and chocolate. Best 2008-2010. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 2000: Almost as if rising from a sleep and perhaps singing it's swan's song, this medium- to full-bodied, 12 months oak-aged blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, this medium to full-bodied red was aged for 12 months is showing very nicely indeed right now. Dark garnet, with just a hint of clearing around the rim, showing berry, black cherry and ripe plum fruits, those with appealing spicy and toasty oak overlays. I wouldn't gamble on further cellaring but drinking very nicely right now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gamla, 1999: Fully mature, darkening in color, taking on a hint of not unappealing bitterness and with the fruits turning more deeply plumy but still holding nicely. As in its youth still showing red and black currant fruits and light peppery and herbal overlays. Still thoroughly enjoyable but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

THE WHITE WINES

Golan Heights Winery, Sauvignon Blanc, Yarden, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, with grapefruit, yellow plum, apricot and floral aromas and flavors. Lively, dry and pleasant, with a hint of pineapple arising on the finish. Best from release. Score 88. (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted before the final blend but already showing traditional Viognier traits. With aromas and flavors of peach, pear, apple, white flowers and minerals, those backed up nicely by hints of citrus and lively acidity, this clean, fresh and long white shows many of the best traits of Condrieu. Potentially the best Viognier to date from Israel. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: Aged partly in barriques, partly in stainless steel, and thus reflecting a gentle hand with spicy wood. Lively golden in color, full-bodied, with nectarine, peach, pear kiwi and hints of citrus that play nicely on the palate together with aromas and flavors of spring flowers. Drink now-2008, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2004: Light golden in color, with classic Viognier apricot, citrus, litchi and peach fruits on the nose and palate, those set off by a hint of coconut and a gentle spiciness. Aromatic, harmonious and long. Drink now-2008. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden in color, with ripe apple, citrus and spices, opening to a touch of charred oak. Medium-bodied, but light, lively and rich on the palate and showing fine balance leading to a long and snappy finish. Best 2008-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, bright gold in color, with nutty, floral and woody notes highlighting ripe tropical fruits, pears and citrus. On the background a nice hint of white pepper, all leading to a long finish. Best from release-2009. Score 89.K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2003: Drinking beautifully now, showing medium- to full-bodied, with a complex array of apricot, pear and fig fruits on first attack, those yieliding comfortably to citrus, pineapple, minerals and spicy oak. Drink now-2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay Yarden, 2002: Darker gold now than in its youth, the once generous oak now nicely integrated and showing a hint of caramel. Full-bodied with pear, hazelnut and citrus notes backed up nicely by nutty and mineral aromas and flavors. Drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2001: Fully mature, showing dark gold now and showing less acidity and more fat and more buttery than in its youth and still drinking very nicely indeed, thank you. On the nose and palate ripe pears, citrus peel, toasty bread and vanilla, all lingering nicely. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 2000: Mature, but still plenty of fruit here. Medium- to full-bodied, with pear, fig, apple and citrus on the nose and palate, those supported nicely by hints of vanilla and spring flowers and a light hint of smoky wood. Drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Yarden, 1999: Deep golden going towards a light caramel color but sStill hanging in there and for the first fifteen minutes after poured showing nutty pear, apple and citrus on a buttery finish. Not too long after that in the glass and the wine goes down rather quickly. Drink up if you have any left on hand. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 76Mar 2007)

Heightswine

Note: To close out our tasting we went on to a vertical of Heightswine. Made from Gewurztraminer grapes that are brought in whole clusters to the winery where they are cooled to -12 degrees Celsius for about a month, the clusters then gently pressed which yields a rich, concentrated must that is then slowly fermented.

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Still in a pre-natal state but already showing traditional Gewurztraminer litchis, apricots and tropical fruits and now starting to develop the floral and honeyed characteristics of an ice wine. Promising. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Gewurztraminer grapes frozen at the winery. Pale golden in color, with a complex nose and palate that offers up pineapple, citrus, litchi, orange peel and floral aromas and flavors, those with a light hint of sea water that adds to the wines charm and complexity. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Score 91. K (Tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2004: Made as always from Gewurztraminer grapes by the process of cryoextraction in the winery, this year offering its usual share of elegance and richness On the nose and palate apricot, peach and spices on a richly honeyed and floral background. Drink now-2009. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2003: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: As always, a tantalizing dessert wine, light to medium-bodied with delicate honeyed apricot and peach aromas and flavors, good balancing acidity and an elegantly lingering finish. Drink now–2008. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2002: Again, my last tasting note holds firmly: Light gold in color, medium-bodied, and with excellent balance. Plenty of natural acidity to back up the sweetness and keep it lively while allowing the peach, apricot, and quince fruits to make themselves nicely felt. Honeyed and floral, generous and round. Drink now. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2001: Well balanced, generous and elegant, this honeyed dessert wine is made entirely from Gewurztraminer grapes treated to sub-freezing temperatures at the winery. It has a lively golden color and offers up a generous array of yellow peaches, apricots, melon, orange marmalade and quince, all on a floral and just spicy enough background. Drink now–2008. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 2000: A deliciously honeyed dessert wine, now showing pear, quince and traditional Gewurztraminer spices and litchis. As the wine develops in the glass look for hints of ripe apricots and white peaches. Generously sweet but with fine balancing acidity to keep it lively. Drink now. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)

Golan Heights Winery, Heightswine, 1999: The first ice-wine made by the winery and showing its 8th year with grace and still remarkable youth. Sweet, with generous mineral and floral overtones, now showing lightly honeyed sweetness and in addition to the peach, apple and tropical fruits of its youth appealing hints of citrus peel and litchis. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 6 Mar 2007)