I visited Gustavo & Jo for barrel, advance and re-tastings. When I wrote about their first release, that from the 1997 vintage, I referred to this as a "micro-winery". I suppose today the appropriate term has come to be accepted as "garagiste" but truth be told, I still rather like that earlier used term.

Located in the village of Kfar Vradim in the Western Galilee and drawing on grapes from the Golan Heights and the Upper Galilee, this small winery was founded in 1995 by Gideon Boinjeau and until 2005 produced wines made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In 2005 the winery released its first white wine. In addition to a regular release, the winery also produces a Premium series and total production averages 3,000 bottles annually, with a future potential target of 10,000 - 20,000 bottles. The winery is considering the possibility of switching over to kashrut with the wines of the 2006 vintage.

One of the great charms of an annual visit to a truly small winery is that it offers the chance to taste and re-taste literally every wine produced since the winery's inception. Three of these wines, the 2000, 2001 and 2002 were tasted again today in my own tasting room. Following are my various tasting notes. As to coffee served – the simplest botz (steeped coffee) but that surprisingly good as Boinjeau uses a special blend that he has made for his own pleasure.

Best

Rogov

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Very early days for this wine which is still in stainless steel and has not yet been transferred to oak, but the wine showing a serious potential problem. Having risen to 15% alcohol content and showing far too much heat on the palate and a nail polish-like aroma at this stage, the wine seems to be taking on more of the personality of a liqueur and not a wine per se. To be re-tasted as the wine either develops or not. Impossible to score at this stage.

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark garnet in color, with grapes primarily from the Upper Galilee and destined to spend 22 – 24 months in oak,this spicy and tannic wine shows fine balance and structure, generous black fruits, hints of licorice and green olives coming together nicely on a long and mouthfilling finish. Needs time to show its elegance. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 23 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards black, full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely, those balanced nicely by spicy wood and blackcurrant, blackberry and cassis fruits all on a background of minty-chocolate. Long and complex. Best 2007–2010. Score 91. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2002: My previous tasting note holds firmly: Deep garnet towards black, full-bodied, with still firm but well-integrating tannins. Excellent balance between wood, tannins and an appealing array of black and red fruits, those yielding to spices, chocolate and mint. Long and complex. Drink now-2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 24 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2001: Full-bodied, with once firm tannins now integrating nicely and continuing to show the fine balance and structure of its youth. On the nose and palate currant, black cherry and plum fruits, those backed up nicely by hints of Mediterranean herbs and a gentle overlay of mint. Drinking very nicely now -2007. Score 91. (Re-tasted 24 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Premium, 2000: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Full-bodied and with its once firm tannins now well integrated, the wine reveals a complex set of aromas and flavors that include currants, wild berries, leather and spices. Deep, rich, and bordering on elegance. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 90. (Re-tasted 24 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Deep, almost impenetrable garnet in color, full-bodied, with tannins now soft and silky. Showing a ripe and complex core of currants, berries, leather and spices and, on the long finish hints now of dried herbs and espresso coffee. Drinking beautifully now-2007. Score 89. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1998: Medium- to full-bodied, with fine balance between gently spicy and smoky wood and now silky smooth tannins. With still youthful black currant and berry fruits, those matched by appealing olive and earthy streaks that run through to the long finish. Drink now. Score 90. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1997: As it has always been, full bodied and complex but now moving (albeit gracefully) from maturity to old-age. Tannins now fully integrated, still showing some appealing blackcurrant and berry flavors but those turning a bit acidic after a short while in the glass. Not meant for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 88. (Re-tasted with consistent notes 23 and 24 Jan 2006)

Gustavo & Jo, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing better than at barrel tastings. Developed partly in stainless steel, partly in 300 liter Burgundy style barrels, this medium- to full-bodied, light golden wine is an interesting combination of New and Old World winemaking. On the nose and palate New Zealand style grassiness and yes, even a hint of cat's pee as well as Loire Valley crispness and fruitiness (look especially for citrus and passion fruits). Refreshing and easy to drink but with an inescapable complexity. Drink from release-2008, perhaps longer. Score 90. (Re-tasted 23 Jan 2006)