Eleonora Scholes November 2004
The presentation of wines of Israel that was held in Moscow on 1 November turned upside down the stereotypes about the country’s winemaking standards.
By initiative of Carmel, the largest producer that recently focused its efforts on making premium, single vineyard wines, ten leading boutique wineries of the country formed an association called ‘Handcrafted Wines of Israel’. It happened 6 months ago, in February 2004. Thanks to the consolidation, tiny fine wine producers get access to international markets, and the image of Israel as a winemaking country is raised to a principally new level.
The Moscow presentation of ‘Handcrafted Wines of Israel’ not only successfully proved the viability of the initiative, but led to serious belief in Israeli wines. Mil-Man Arkadi, Ambassador of Israel, best summed it by saying, “Israel is a country of miracles… Even I didn’t know that our winemaking has developed so far’.
Oded Shoham who is responsible for the project in Carmel, commented that although the winemaking history of the country goes back for centuries, only sweet and sacramental wines have been made without a tradition of producing really fine wine. The situation started to change about 20 years ago. The tasting was to demonstrate its results.
The only white wine – “C” Blanc du Castel 2002 from Domaine du Castel (100% Chardonnay) set high standards at once. Made in the best traditions of Burgundy, it charmed with generous aromas and an incredibly long finish. Eli Ben-Zaken, owner-winemaker of the famed property, told about main principles of work based on low yields, high density and limited irrigation. Another wine of Domaine du Castel, red Castel Grand Vin 2000 from the Bordeaux blend with dominating Cabernet Sauvignon, showed still young features of an outstanding wine that needs time for full development of its already complex character.
Two serious wines by Carmel – Cabernet Sauvignon Zarit Single Vineyard 2001 and Carmel Limited Edition 2002. Zarit is a first attempt in Carmel to let the vineyard speak for itself. The story of chalky soils is heard in this soft, ripe fruit-driven wine through vivid mineral finish. A barrel sample of Limited Edition promises to turn into a spicy, velvety giant with deep emotions.
Saslove “Adom” Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 from Saslove Winery in the Upper Galilee is the demonstration of Barry Saslove’s philosophy about nice, non-aggressive wines that yet possess enough power to get them linger on the palate. Vineyards on volcanic soils with deep basalt layer give this special depth and complexity, and the velvet of tannins decorates the wine with additional sensuality.
Tzora Vineyards presented its most attractive wine Tzora Ilan Misty Hills 2001. The trick lies in the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot for this wine ripe simultaneously on a separate plot. Rich flavours with interwoven red and dark fruit leave the most favourable impression.
Amphorae Vineyard Rhyton 2001 (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 10% Petite Syrah) from Amphorae Vineyard is still a baby wine of tremendous power and depth. The perfectionist winemaker Gil Shatzberg preaches organic winemaking and is keen to follow the Israeli wine style – with ripe dates and plums.
Yatir Forest 2001 by Yatir Winery, a joint project between Carmel and winemakers on the south of Judean Hills, flatters with its amazing freshness of mint in the blend of 85% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 15% Merlot.
Family-run Margalit Winery chose Margalit Cabernet Franc 2002 and Margalit Cabernet Special Reserve 2001 for the tasting. Cabernet Franc – first with this variety in Israel – features concentrated flavours of red fruit with soft feel and staying power. Margalit Cabernet Special Reserve is an example of a refined wine with serious structure where mint and ripe fruit artfully present themselves on the palate. Yair Margalit tends his vines in a nearly organic way and does not use irrigation – results speak for themselves.
