Among the simultaneous chores and joys of having to update my little guide to Israeli wines on an annual basis is that involving visiting and re-visiting wineries even more frequently than I have done in the past. Today found me on the train to Lod (I do enjoy train travel, even when short), from there to make my way to meet Professors Ben-Ami Bravdo and Oded Shosheyov of the Karmei Yosef (Bravdo) winery.

During my visit I tasted the winery's first Chardonnay (scheduled for release approximately April 2005) and retasted the Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon of 2003 as well as the Cabernet Sauvignon of 2002. On my return to Tel Aviv I set up a blind tasting from my own cellar that included (in a flight of 11 wines all in all) their 2001 Cabernet and the 2002 Merlot, this therefore having allowed me to taste or re-taste all of the wines to date of this still young winery.

Following are my tasting notes.

Best,
Rogov

Karmei Yosef, Chardonnay, Bravdo, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): After undergoing very cold fermentation in stainless steel, 1/3 of the wine then transferred to French oak and another 1/3 to American oak for three months and then re-assembled to develop in stainless steel, this medium- to full-bodied white is on its way to being as crisply dry and aromatic as one could want. Rich, concentrated, complex and somewhat bold, with crisply dry aromas and flavors of citrus and citrus peel, melon, apple fruits together with light oak shadings, well on its way to being rich, complex, concentrated and somewhat bold. Tenative Score 91-93. (Tasted 1Dec 2004)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Developing beautifully and living up nicely to its promise from an earlier barrel tasting. A fascinating blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon harvested in the usual manner, 10% Cabernet that was intentionally late-harvested, and 10% Merlot. Full-bodied, aromatic and packed at this stage with plums, currants and berries, reflecting excellent balance between fruits, wood and acidity, well on its way to becoming an elegant and graceful wine. Best from 2006. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 1 Dec 2004)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2002: As predicted earlier, this blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot, full-bodied, young wine is now opening beautifully and showing excellent focus. A leathery base with a complex array of ripe aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries and a tantalizing hint of anise, as well as an appealing hint of bitterness that makes itself felt on the long, fruity finish. Generous soft tannins and good balance. Drink now–2007. Score 92. (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 1 Dec 2004)

Karmei Yosef, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bravdo, 2001: My earlier notes hold firmly: Deep garnet toward purple, this oak-aged, unfiltered blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot is now showing excellent balance between soft, well-integrated tannins, natural acidity, wood and a tempting array of currant, blackberry and black cherry fruits, those on a background of toasted nuts, black licorice and Mediterranean herbs. Mouth-filling, long and delicious, the wine opens beautifully in the glass and on the palate, and then lingers long and gently. Drink now–2008. Score 91.(Re-tasted 1 Dec 2004)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Again, my earlier notes hold firmly: A rich, generous Merlot, with minty and licorice accents to ripe blackberry, currant, spice and anise flavors. Soft tannins well in balance with fruits and the first influence of the wood bode very nicely for the future development of this wine. Best 2006–2010. Tentative Score 90-92. (Re-tasted 1 Dec 2004)

Karmei Yosef, Merlot, Bravdo, 2002: No need whatever to revise my earlier notes: Ripe, bold, well focused and delicious, with layer after layer of blueberry, plum and currant fruits, this medium-bodied wine boasts soft tannins along with hints of mocha and Mediterranean herbs that seem to dart in and out on the palate, all culminating in a long, near-sweet finish. Drink now–2007. Score 91 (Re-tasted1 Dec 2004)