My visit to the Margalit winery offered some fine tastings indeed but not a single surprise, the winery continuing as one of the very best in the country and here too with a marked movement towards elegance. As much as many of Margalit's earlier wines were truly excellent, quite a few of those earlier releases might well have been described as "blockbusters" and even the term "bombastic" might have applied. All of which was fine for in its day, those wines were among the first truly world-class wines produced in the country Now, as Margalit said himself today "as we and our tastes develop, so do the wines". In this case, as will be seen in my tasting notes, that development is just fine indeed.

ROGOV

Margalit, Special Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Cabernet Sauvignon blended with about 25% of Margalit's special Petite Sirah. Full-bodied, dense and intense but at the same time round and yielding, offering up chocolate-covered cherries, cassis, wild berry and kirsch, those balanced nicely by spicy-cedary oak. Long, complex and destined for elegance. Approachable by 2008 but best 2010-2015. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Special Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at barrel tastings. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% of Margalit's magical Petite Sirah. Deep garnet towards inky black, remarkably concentrated and intense and still firmly tannic at this stage but with fine balance and structure, this simply needs time. As the wine develops in the bottle look for a glorious array of currant, blackberry and plums on the first attack, those melding into hints of coffee, dusky spices and smoky notes and finally on the super-long finish the tannins residing to let the fruits and a hint of espresso coffee rise and float to the surface. Perhaps destined to be Margalit's longest-lived wine. Best 2009-2022, perhaps longer. Score 94. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): "As dark as pitch", offering a generous mouthful of currant, cherry, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those matched by layers of sweet spices. Big, broad and intense but yielding beautiful on the palate to show grace and elegance, all leading to a superbly long and fruity finish. Best 2009-2015, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Deep garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft but comfortably gripping tannins and fine balance and structure. Opens with distinct red currant, raspberry and red plum fruits, those yielding to blueberries and appealing earthy-herbal overtones and gentle spicy wood on the long finish. Best 2009-2015. Score 93. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and ripe blackberry, plum and berry fruits complemented nicely by spicy oak. Concentrated and elegant with hints of dark chocolate on the long finish. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark enough to be thought of as inky-purple, this beautiful wine offers up generous near-sweet oak, black cherries, blackberries and currants on first attack, those yielding nicely to red plums and jammy raspberries. Dark and brooding at this time with the tannins rising on the long finish. Best 2009-2014. Score 93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Cabernet Franc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark cherry towards garnet in color and full-bodied, , this round and polished wine shows generous blackberry, currant and black cherry fruits, those matched nicely by hints of spices and cedar wood, all leading to a long, generously tannic finish. Faithful to the variety and destined for elegance. Approachable now but best 2008-2012. Score 92. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with rich black currant, cherry and blackberry fruits matched nicely by floral and light earthy aromas and flavors. Comes to a long, remarkably caressing finish. Best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Enigma, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A medium- to full-bodied, softly tannic, subtle and round blend of 605 Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Opens with red currants and red plums, goes to black cherries and a pleasing light spiciness and closes long, fruity and persistent. Best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Margalit, Enigma, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Remarkably faithful to my barrel tasting a year ago, this medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot (60%, 22% and 18% respectively) shows generous ripe, cassis, raspberry, and cherry fruits, those matched nicely by caressingly soft tannins, lightly spicy oak and chocolate, all coming together elegantly on a long and mouth-filling finish. Approachable and enjoyable on release but best 2008-2013, perhaps longer. Score 93. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)