On Wednesday evening, 19 March 2008, Yair and Assaf Margalit (to whom from now on I shall refer as Margalit, Pere et Fils) hosted a tasting for the press. During the course of the evening we tasted tasting of each of the just being released 2006 wines and a vertical of wines going back to the winery's very first release in 1989. The tasting was a fascinating one in many ways, notably because it demonstrated that many of the Margalit wines are cellaring for longer than had originally been predicted.

My thanks to Yair and Assaf and to Irit Shenkar who indeed has replaced Pearl Mesta as "the hostest with the mostest".

Before the notes, two comment. (a) This is the fourth time I have tasted the 2006 wines, the last time just a few days ago (on 15 Mar 2008) Those notes hold firmly. (b) Readers may note that some of the older wines are not given scores. That in no way should be seen as a negative descriptor but rather as a compliment to the history of those wines.

Best
Rogov

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2006: Cabernet Sauvignon blended with about 13% of Margalit’s Petite Sirah. Full-bodied, dense and intense, but at the same time round and yielding, offering up chocolate-covered cherries, cassis, wild berry and kirsch, those balanced nicely by spicy-cedary oak. Long, complex and destined for elegance. Best 2009–2017. Score 93. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Enigma, 2006: Full-bodied, subtle and round, a softly tannic blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot. Opens with red currants and red plums, goes to black cherries and a pleasing light spiciness and closing with a long fruity and persistent finish. Best 2009-2013.. Score 93. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Almost inky black in color, offering a generous mouthful of currant, cherry, blackberry and blueberry fruits, those matched by layers of sweet spices. Big, broad and intense but yielding on the palate to show grace and elegance, and closing with a long, fruity finish. Best 2009–2015.. Score 92. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Franc, 2006: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium to full-bodied. Blended with 5% of 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and showing rich black currant, cherry and blackberry fruits matched nicely by floral and light earthy aromas and flavors, all coming to a long, round and caressing finish. Best 2009-2013. Score 92. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Enigma, 2003: Fully living up to its earlier promise, this Bordeaux blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc is showing remarkably rich, ripe and polished. Dark garnet, round and approachable, with a complex array of currant, plum and wild berry aromas and flavors, those well focused and long and matched by a gentle spiciness and a hint of freshly roasted coffee that run through to the long finish. Drink now–2011. Score 92. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2002: Coming into its own now, the once almost unbearable intensity now residing and letting the wine show its elegance. This almost impenetrable garnet towards inky-black blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Sirah and 8% Cabernet Franc remains remarkably concentrated and heavy enough to chew, but through its muscles shows great finesse. Ripe currants, purple plums, wild berries spices and cedar flavors on a complex licorice and tobacco core and a long, intense finish. Drink now–2014. Score 93. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2000: Showing every bit as elegant and luxuruious as during its youth. A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauignon, 15% Petite Sirah and 5% Merlot, opens with an earthy-mineral nose, that going to spring flowers and then on to aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, wild berries, black cherries and cigar box notes. On the long finish hints of dark chocolate and cigar tobacco. Drink now-2011. Score 92. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Carignan, 1999: A surprise when it was released, the one and only varietal Carignan released by Margalit. Blended with 5% Cabernet Sauvinon grapes, the wine was remarkably tight and closed during its youth but even then showing fine balance and structure. Full-bodied, with a still young garnet towards royal purple color but with tannins that have subsided and now seen to fully compliment red berry, chocolate and notes of licorice all leading to a round and mouth-filling finish. At my only earlier tasting of this rare wine, I suggested that best drinking would be from 2003-2008. I was wrong. Drinking very nicely now or for the next two-three years. Score 90. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 1994: My most recent tasting note (11 Nov 2006 holds firmly: A good wine but from a problematic vintage and thus lacking the concentration, intensity and elegance felt in the 1993 wine, but continuing to show currant, plum and berry aromas and flavors, those on a background of smoky oak and fresh forest greenery. Somewhat past its peak, throwing generous sediment now and showing signs of age. . Drink up. Score 89. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1993: From its release until 2004 this showed as one of the very best Cabernet Sauvignon wines ever from Israel earning a noble 93 points. Now garnet towards brick red, opens with a still young nose and continues to show elegance and, at least for 15 minutes, black and red fruits but those then beginning to collapse on themselves and showing distinctly Port-like traits, those including generous hints of chocolate and spicy cedar. Showing all the signs of aging so if you have any left on hand, drink up. Current score 86. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1992: This is the wine Margalit and I have discussed for many years, my palate telling me that this was Margalit's one and only disappointing effort, being far too one-dimensional, lacking balance and with aromas and flavors that were far too smoky. The wine was opened at this tasting "in my honor" and to my surprise (and, I believe Margalit's) the wine is showing better now than ever before. Still not one of Margalit's "greats" and now fully mature and throwing abundant sediment but for the first time, perhaps singing it's swan's song, showing soft and round with surprisingly fresh berry and black cherry fruits that hold nicely for 15 or so minutes before the wine caves in on itself. Rather than give this a score and in honor of the truly superb wines that Margalit has made, let's just call this one "fascinating". (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1990: Throwing abundant sediment and showing a nose of deep cloes, cinnamon and anise, but beyond those still hints of the berry and currant fruits that once made this a great wine of its day. Drinkable but well beyond its peak and no longer scoreable. (Re-tasted 19 Mar 2008)

Margalit, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1989: The first Margalit wine released to the market (if memory serves, with a production of 900 bottles) and, if I can boast just a wee bit, I was the only person to write about it and write about I did in superlatives. At its best this was a seductive, complex and elegant wine with remarkable color and intense aromas and flavors of black fruits, chocolate and cigar box all on a velvety, almost chewy texture. Still showing dark garnet but with hints of browning and of caramelization creeping in, and thus well past its peak but still showing hints of good days gone by. If you do have one on hand, don't open it but certainly don't throw it away. This is a wine that deserves its place of honor in your cellar if for no other reason than out of sheer respect.

Margalit, Chardonay, 1995: One of the few white wines made by Margalit, this one in fact came about accidentally but that's a long story to ask Yair Margalit himself as he so much enjoys telling that story. At its release pale golden in color, full-bodied and, despite its short period in oak (three months if memory serves), buttery and honeyed while remaining supple and lively. Today showing almost bronzed in color, even fuller in body, taking on a near-sweet sheen and showing much as might a well-aged white Burgundy, with hints of cardamom pods, cinnamon, star anise and remarkably, ripe melon and pear fruits. As much a curiosity as a fine wine now but oh, what a lovely curiosity.