Graham Green traveled with his aunt and John Steinbeck traveled with Charlie but when I'm in the Galilee I often travel with Oded. On 18 December my day started in the Upper Galilee and took me through Zichron Ya'akov and finally to the Margalit winery not far from Hadera. My thanks as always to Oded Chai and to the winemakers who opened their doors to me and gave me extensive tastings and good company..

One note on which to ponder: Athough many of the wines I re-tasted during this two day voyage (17 and 18 December) showed a high level of consistency between this and earlier tastings, some showed so dramatically different and almost invariably better that one cannot help but wonder in a few cases at least precisely what happened between tastings. Among the possibilities – wines coming into their own, wines that have been somehow "doctored", separate bottlings from different batches or even different grapes.

Rogov

Yiftah'el

Yiftah'el, Sangiovese Nouveau, 2007: Light enough ruby red that one might take it for a rose, with super-soft tannins and simple but pleasant red berry and cherry flavors. A pleasant light quaffer. Drink up. Score 83. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Merlot, 2003: Light garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and forward red berry and currant fruits. Pleasant but not complex and starting to show its age. Drink up. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Sangiovese, 2004: Showing dramatically better than at earlier tastings. Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a hint of spicy wood from its 8 months in oak. On the nose and palate raspberry and cherry fruits supported by a nice hint of spiciness. Round and easy to drink but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 83. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Sangiovese, 2005: Light ruby in color, with soft tannins and simple but appealing berry and red cherry fruits on a light licorice background. Drink now. Score 80. (Re-tasted 19 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Syrah-Sangiovese, 2005: A soft, round, medium-bodied blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Sangiovese reflecting its 12 months in oak with appealing hints of spices and vanilla. Soft tannins highlight aromas and flavors of red fruits but the wine is somewhat flawed by too generous acidity. Drink now. Score 83. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah’el, Shiraz, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with chunky, country-style tannins and spicy wood along with appealing plum, raspberry, herbal and earthy-minerals that linger nicely. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied reflecting its 12 months in American oak with soft tannins and hints of vanilla. Opens to show blackberry and currant fruits along with notes of Mediterranean herbs and minerals. Round, soft and with good length. Drink now-2009. Score 86. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Merlot, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Ruby to garnet, reflecting its time in barriques with spicy cedar wood. Medium-bodied, with chunky tannins a simple but appealing country-style wine with berry and cassis fruits. Drink now. Score 80. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Petite Sirah, 2005: Dramatically different and not as appealing as at a recent earlier tasting. Although said to be aged in new oak for only 4 months, this full-bodied, dark garnet wine is showing remarkably firm tannins and surprisingly full-bodied. The chunky tannins give the wine a distinct country-style, and the black fruits here are largely hidden by a heavy iodine/medicinal overlay Drink up. Score 76. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Sangiovese, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, with soft tannins and showing berries, prunes, freshly picked mushrooms and spices on a background of citrus-flavored chocolate. Drink from release. Tentatie Score 84-86. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Shiraz, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost inky garnet, full-bodied, and with soft, mouth-coating tannins. Opens to show black fruits, goes on to reveal black pepper, licorice and spicy wood, all coming together and lingering nicely. Perhaps the best to date from the winery.Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Petite Sirah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full bodied, with firm tannins in fine balance with spicy wood. On first attack licorice, chocolate and tobacco, those followed by red fruits. Generous, mouth-filling and moderately long. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Petite Sirah, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Firm, full-bodied and concentrated, almost inky black in color showing intense tannins and spicy wood, both needing time to integrate but even now opening to show raspberry, currant and licorice aromas and flavors. Drink from release-2010. Score 86. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Yiftah'el, Red Blend, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Petite Sirah. Medium-bodied, dark ruby in color, with chunky, country-style tannins parting slowly to reveal wild berry and cassis fruits. Marred by high alcohol that leads to a hot finish. Drink from release. Score 84. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Alon

Alon, Tempranillo, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Blended with 15% Petite Sirah, this ruby-towards-garnet, medium-bodied oak-aged red shows soft tannins, gentle spiciness and appealing plum and herbal notes. Not typical for the variety but a good quaffer.Drink now–2009. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Alon, Carignan, 2005: Dark garnet and aromatic, this medium-bodied blend of 86% Carignan and 7% each of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon shows soft tannins that are settling in nicely with berry, black cherry and currant fruits. Hints of chocolate and licorice on the finish.. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Alon, Petit Verdot, 2005: An oak-aged blend of 88% Petit Verdot and 12% Tempranillo. Royal-purple, light- to medium-bodied, with soft tannins and somewhat generous smoke as it first opens, that yields to reveal berry and cherry fruits together with a hint of licorice. Drink now. Score 84. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Alon, Petit Verdot, 2006: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with good varietal character showing cassis, tobacco and herbal notes. Not complex but fresh and crisp. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Alon, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Medium-bodied, with gently gripping tannins this oak-aged red shows appealing red currant and cherry fruits, those with hints of chocolate and licorice. Tentative Score 84-86. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar

Smadar, Carignan, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins. Showing aromas of berries, black cherries and tobacco and, on the finish a hint of leather.. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Carignan, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with a low nose but showing fresh and lively flavors of plums, blackberries and spices, all with peppery and meaty overtones. Drink now-2008. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smarar, Carignan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with concentrated aromas and flavors of black cherries, raspberries, minerals and spices, all backed up by just firm enough tannins and peppery oak. Drink from release-2010. Tentatvie Score 85-87. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Carignan, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet in color, with firm tannins and generous acidity needing time to integrate but already showing appealing red fruits, spices and earthy-minerals, all with a hint of black pepper on the finish. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Merlot, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Blended with 5% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan, the wine shows garnet-red color, with generous chunky-style tannins opening to reveal blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits on a background of spicy oak. An appealing country-style wine. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Merlot, 2005: Deep garnet towards inky purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and gentle spicy wood in fine balance with plum, blackberry and currant fruits all on a background of exotic spices. A long finish on which tannins and fruits rise together. Drink now-2009. Score 86. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins. A round wine opening to show a gentle hand with spicy wood and appealing black fruits. On the finish look for hints of chocolate and vanilla that play nicely on the palate. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Merlot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Almost inky black at this stage of its development, showing gripping tannins and spicy wood needing time to settle in. Good black fruits here but a chocolate, licorice and spice-rich wine. Drink from release-2011, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Blended with 10% of Carignan, this medium-dark royal purple wine reflects its 24 months in oak with generous but soft tannins and spicy wood that part to allow the blackcurrant and blackberry fruits to make themselves felt nicely. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Not showing quite as well as at barrel tastings. Dark garnet in color, full-bodied with firm tannins that seem not to want to yield and generous wood that somewhat hide the black fruits, citrus peel and chocolate that try hard to make themselves felt. Perhaps better with time. Try in 2009. Score 85. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Firm and ripe, medium- to full-bodied with an appealing earthy-mineral streak that runs through berry, cherry and anise aromas an flavors. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Somewhat astringent at this stage of its development but showing overall balance and structure that should make this an easy-drinking Cabernet with black cherry and blackberry notes on a background of green olives. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Smadar, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A modest wine, medium-bodied, ruby towards garnet in color, with herbal and cedar notes opening to reveal black cherries and hints of tobacco. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

;Smadar, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple, medium-bodied with still tight tannins. On the nose and palate dried cherries and cranberries along with generous overlays of sage and green olives. Drink from release. Tentative Score 82-84. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner

Poizner, Merlot, 2005: Full-bodied, dark ruby towards garnet, opening with firm tannins and generous wood influence from its 12 months in French oak, but those integrating nicely with raspberry and plum fruits, those backed up nicely by soicy and toasty hints on the finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 60. Score 87. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Oak-aged in French barriques for 14 months, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot shows fine balance between soft, gently mouth-coating tannins, a light hand with spicy wood and an array of traditional Cabernet blackcurrant and blackberry fruits. In the background generous hints of lead pencil and green olives. Drink now-2010. NIS 60. Score 88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Carignan, Old Vines, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, full-bodied and firm. Reflects its 14 months in French oak with light spicy and dusty wood, that highlighting aromas and flavors of red cherries, red currants, raspberries an spice. On the lingering finish generous hints of cocoa and vanilla. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Merlot, Single Vineyard, Zichron Ya'akov, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with nicely integrating tannins and spicy wood supporting aromas and flavors of blackberries, cassis and bitter orange peel. Long, round and generous. Drink from release-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kfar Yufal, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet towards inky black, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting its oak-aging with spices and vanilla. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries, chocolate and licorice. On the long finish an eppealing hint of red cherries. Drink from release, 2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Syrah-Shiraz-Carignan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Fire-engine red towards purple at this stage of its development, this oak-aged blend of 50% Syrah and 25% each Shiraz and Carignan shows soft tannins, vanilla and exotic spices, those serving as a comfortable backdrop for raspberry and red currant fruits. Look as well for hints of damp earth and freshly cut herbs. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Merlot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components and already showing deep garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins integrating nicely to show a lightly spicy berry-cherry personality. Drink from release. Tentative Score 85-87. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Ripe and near-sweet, with fig, plum, raspberry and espresso coffee notes. Medium-bodied with soft tannins a round and generous wine. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Poizner, Syrah, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with soft tannins, gently spicy wood and generous blackberry and spice notes. Generously fruity with a clean, round finish. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Somek

Somek, Chardonnay, 2005: Light golden in color, medium- to full-bodied, developed sur lie for 12 months in French oak. Buttery and lively at the same time, showing generous white peach, citrus and apple notes, those supported nicely by hints of spices that toy on the palate. Drink now-2009. NIS 75. Score 88. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Somek, Carignan, 2004: Oak-aged for 20 months in French barriques, medium-boied, with generous black fruits, spicy oak and vanilla, a softly tannic wine that opens nicely on the palate. Plenty of spicy wood here but that well integrated and, on the long finish hints of orange peel and chocolate. Drink now. NIS 90. Score 88. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Somek, Merlot, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deep ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with gently mouth-coating tannins. Showing spices and vanilla from its oak-aging, those parting to reveal a generous array of currant and wild berry fruits and, on the moderately-long finish an appealing hint of Mediterranean herbs. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 87. (Re-tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Somek, Bikat Hanadiv Reserve, 2004: A generously oak-aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah, showing good balance between spicy wood and firm tannins. On first attack purple plums and blueberries, those yielding to black fruits, chocolate and hints of espresso coffee all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink now-2009, perhaps longer. NIS 95. Score 88. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Somek, Bikat Hanadiv Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost inky garnet in color, this 24 months oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carignan and Petite Sirah (40%, 40%, 15% and 5% respectively) opens with a rich crushed berry and spicy nose. Firmly tannic at this stage of its development, but with tannins and wood integrating nicely the wine opens to reveal blackberry and cassis fruits, those with overlays of tobacco and chocolate. Best from 2009-2012. Score 90. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Galileo

Galileo, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle wood, a not complex but round wine showing lively and clean red and black fruits. A pleasant quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Galileo, Caberret Sauvignon, 2004: An oddball, showing medium bodied, with soft tannins but with its black fruits marred by a distinct hint of pickled cabbage. Drink up. Score 75. (Tasted 18 Dec 2007)

Margalit

Note: My most recent earlier visit to the Margalit winery was just 11 months ago (Sunday, 14 January 2007) during which time I tasted from the 2005 releases and the 2006 wines in barrels. This return trip had me tasting from the 2006 wines which are soon to be bottled and the 2007 wines in barrel. As might be expected from Yair and Assaf Margalit, the consistency between tastings proved to be remarkable. The 2006 wines are still in barrels but because they are scheduled for bottling in the not-too distant future, I am listing those as advance rather than barrel tastings.