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>> Rogov's Tastes » Recanati - August 2005


On Tuesday, 30 August 2005, I devoted my day to a visit to Recanati, there to taste thirty-six wines. To the credit of the winery, the wines show a high level of consistency from year to year, that is to say, reflecting winemaker Lewis Pasco's house style that might well be categorized as somewhere in style between the Mediterranean and California. Equally important, even though the winery has always earned good notes and scores, quality continues to increase, not only in the Special Reserve and Reserve wines but also in the regular releases. I did not taste from the lower priced Yasmine series at this tasting. I shall taste those as they make their way to market and will report on them at a later date.

Also much to the credit of the winery, no Special Reserve wine will be released from the 2002 vintage, this reflecting the winemaker's feeling that the wines of that problematic vintage year were simply not to the standard of such a release. As has happened in many parts of Italy and France (that also went through problematic harvests in 2002), the wines that might have gone into the special reserve series have been blended into the reserve and regular series and that, of course, can only be to their benefit. Nor, for internal reasons, will a Reserve Chardonnay be released from the 2004 vintage.

Several of the wines for which notes follow are due to be released in the next few days. Those include the 2004 Chardonnay, the 2003 Shiraz, the 2002 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2002 Reserve Merlot.

Best,
Rogov


Special Reserve

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2004: An oak-aged blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% of Merlot blended in. Youthful royal purple, full-bodied with silky smooth tannins and smoky, toasty oak that yield to reveal rich spicy currant, wild berry, black cherry and mineral-minty sensations that come in on the long finish. Needs time to show its grace and elegance. Best 2007-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon from Kerem Ben Zimra and 30% Merlot from vineyards at Manara, this deep, broad wine shows traditional Cabernet currants, cassis and spicy-herbal overtones. Good balance between wood, tannins and fruit and a long finish. Needs time to show its elegance. Best 2007-2011. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2001: An oak-aged blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Merlot, this full-bodied, deep garnet toward purple wine offers tempting currant, blackberry and raspberry fruits, those backed up nicely by generous but soft and well-integrated tannins and a nice touch of oak. Drink now– 2008. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Special Reserve, 2000: Aged 18 months in new French oak, this full-bodied, dark garnet towards black blend of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with its once tight tannins now softening nicely shows good balance between tannins, fruit and smoky oak, along with tempting currant, black cherry and vanilla aromas and flavors and herbal, earthy and leathery notes on the long finish. Drink now–2007. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

 

Reserve Series

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A single vineyard wine, made from grapes from the Ben Zimra vineyard. Deep garnet in color, this medium to full-bodied wine with still firm tannins softening nicely now shows aromas and flavors of currants and black cherries as well as hints of spicy wood and Mediterranean herbs. Drink from release–2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Ripe and rich, well balanced, with medium to full-body and soft tannins, traditional Cabernet currant and berry fruits as well as hints of anise and light toasty oak flavors. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2002: Showing somewhat better than during barrel tastings. Still firm tannins here, but given time to open in the glass the wine shows sweet cedar, smoky oak, currant, plum and anise flavors. Somewhat short and perhaps lacking the structure for long-term cellaring. Drink now-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2001: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark in color and firmly tannic but with concentrated currant, berry and spicy aromas and flavors, the wine has a welcoming hint of raspberries on the long finish. Elegant and complex. Drink now–2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2000: Having lost the freshness and first flush of youth, now with hints of browning. Generous oak here and still some black fruits, truffles and leather. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): A single-vineyard wine, with grapes harvested at Manara. Medium to full-bodied with firm tannins already yielding nicely and well balanced by sweet oak, currant, black cherry, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors. Chocolate and appealing anise flavors on the long finish. Best 2007–2011. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): With firm tannins giving a solid backbone, sweet oak that makes itself felt from first attack to the long finish, and layers of currant, black cherry, mocha and chocolate, a concentrated and graceful wine. Best 2006-2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

 

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2002: Better now than during earlier tastings. Opening nicely and showing cherry and wild berry fruits backed up by hints of tea, herbs and cedar wood. Not overly complex and with a still tannic edge that may or may not settle down in time. Drink now -2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2001: My earlier tasting notes hold firmly: Dark, deep and mysterious, this tempting medium to full-bodied wine has plenty of smooth tannins and abundant dark fruit, chocolate, vanilla and smoky-herbal aromas and flavors. Opening nicely and lingering comfortably on the palate. Drink now–2008. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, Reserve, 2000: Deep royal purple, this medium to full-bodied red offers aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, purple plums, eucalyptus and sage. Still somewhat heavy on the oak, but well structured and balanced enough to carry that. Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Franc, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Made entirely from grapes from the Manara vineyard, this medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet red shows good balance between generous tannins, cedar-wood and smoky oak, those opening on the palate to reveal a rich array of blackberry, currant and earthy-herbal aromas and flavors. Tannic and powerful on the long near chalky finish. Best 2007-2011. Tentative Score 90-92 K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Shiraz, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Ripe and supple, with black cherry, herbal and beefy aromas and flavors, those coming together with firm tannins and sweet cedar wood. On the long appealingly tannic finish, toasted bread and mocha. Drink from release-2009, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)


 

Recanati, Barbera, Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Made entirely from grapes from the Manara vineyard, this is a far more "serious" release than the 2003. Youthful royal purple towards dark garnet in color, fuller in body, with good balance between gentle oak and acidity and a tempting array of plum, black cherry and currant fruits, those matched nicely by overtones of freshly turned earth and chocolate. As the wine develops in the bottle look for hints of tobacco and white truffles. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

 

Recanati, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2003: Deep golden, smooth and supple, with a pleasant earthy accent to pineapple, hazelnut and mineral notes, this stylish wine offers up appealing oak seasoning, a light buttery note and a round and mouth-filling finish. At its peak now. Drink now–2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2002: Oak aged for about 9 months, still zesty and a with a bright golden color, the wine shows pear and hazelnut and vanilla, as well as gernerous buttery-smoky oak aromas and flavors on the finish. Drink now or in the next year or so.. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Aged in American oak, this dark garnet blend of 70% Petite Syrah and 20% Zinfandel is packed with ripe blueberry, blackberry, plum pepper, licorice and mineral aromas and flavors. Generous but not exaggerated oak and tannins but those in fine balance. Drink from release -2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Reserve, 2003: A blend of 80% Petite Syrah and 20% Zinfandel, aged in American oak, this still tannic wine shows dark garnet in color. Concentrated, full-bodied and with expressive spicy plum and black cherry fruits, those matched nicely by spicy, earthy overlays. Look as well for a light hint of asphalt on the finish. Drinking nicely now but best starting only in another six months and then through 2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati Series

 

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Deep ruby towards garnet, medium- to full- bodied, with near-sweet tannins and generous currant and berry fruits, those backed up by smoky wood and earthiness. Drink now–2008. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and appealing berry, currant and plum fruits, all with a hint of spice on the background. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002: Soft tannins, inviting currant and plum flavors, and hints of spices and herbs make this medium to full-bodied wine is just a bit past its peak. Drink up. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, soft but concentrated, with a core of currant, blackberry and cherry fruits matched nicely by cedar and anise. Well balanced and with a moderately long finish on which hints of exotic spices make themselves felt. Drink from release-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, 2003: Round and soft, ripe and fruity, with cherry, berry, currant earthy and herbal aromas and flavors. Young and vibrant, with good balance between gentle tannins and fruits. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Merlot, 2002: Medium-bodied, somewhat on the earthy side, with wild berry and juniper accents along with sweet cedar and spices. Round but a bit tight. Not meant for long cellaring. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Aged in French and American oak, medium- to full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins, a gentle hand with spicy oak and a primarily plum-based personality. Generous and appealing but lacking the balance for more than short-term cellaring. Drink from release-2007. Score 87. (Tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2003: Aged for 12 months in new French and American oak, this dark ruby towards purple, medium-bodied wine shows moderate near-sweet tannins and good balance along with enchanting aromas and flavors of jammy fruits, those with spicy, peppery and licorice overtones, all reflecting the judicious use of oak. Drink now–2008. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Barbera, 2003: Aged for 9 months in used French barriques, this pleasant little cherry towards garnet colored, medium-bodied wine has light tannins allowing the cherry and berry flavors to come through nicely. Lacking complexity but pleasant. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

 

Recanati, Petite Sirah, 2002: Medium-bodied, with firm, somewhat chunky tannins now integrated nicely and generous currant, wild berry and spicy aromas and flavors, the wine also has touches of earth, vanilla and tobacco on the finish. A lovely effort, aging nicely but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2004: Golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, melon and citrus. Lively, complex, round and long with a light mineral-yeasty finish. Drink now–2007. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2003: Developed sur lie for 8 months, this medium to full-bodied Chardonnay reflects just a hint of wood over appealing citrus and tropical fruits. Good balancing acidity here and a nice hint of spiciness Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

 

Recanati, Chardonnay, 2002: Light golden straw in color, with generous litchis and pineapple fruits and good acidity. Somewhat past its peak and now showing a butternut-caramel hint on the finish. Drink up. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Light straw colored, medium-bodied, not specially aromatic but with very appealing summer fruits on a grassy, earthy background. Drink now. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)

Recanati, Sauvignon Blanc, 2003: This unoaked, fresh and lively medium-bodied white starts off with earthy-mineral aromas, those yielding nicely to guava, citrus, grass and nectarine aromas and flavors. Good character. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 30 Aug 2005)


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