It may have just fallen by chance but this year's re-visits to various wineries have started off with visits to some of the most exciting small and medium-sized wineries in the country. Last week (Wednesday, 8 December) found me at Ze'ev Dunie's Sea Horse Wineries where I did advance tastings of all of the 2003 wines and a vertical of the various Elul releases since the winery's opening. Following are my tasting notes. Not a complaint will be forthcoming.

Best,
Rogov

Sea Horse Elul, 2003: With a somewhat new blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah and 5% Petite Syrah, this proves perhaps the best wine yet from Sea Horse. Rich, ripe and complex fruits include juicy black cherries and currants, those with anise and light hints of oak that play nicely on the palate. Smooth and supple tannins and overall excellent structure make this one approachable quite early. Drink now-2012. Score 92. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Lennon, 2003: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 95% Zinfandel and 5% Petite Sirah. With 14 months in American oak this medium- to full-bodied, moderately tannic wine shows good concentration of ripe, juicy cherry and wild berry flavors with an appealing pepper and an anise edge. Drink now-2008. Score 89. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Camus, 2003: Dark garnet red, full-bodied, with still firm tannins well balanced by spicy wild berry and cherry fruits, with an appealing leathery edge on the finish. Rich and complex. Approachable young but best 2006-2009. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Antoine, 2003: Syrah pure and true! Rich and complex, with smoky, meaty overlays on a delicious array of berry, black cherry, spices and currants. Firm but supple tannins and tempting anise, leathery and earthy notes on the long finish. A single barrel was made. Best 2006-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Take II, 2003: Dark ruby towards garnet, this blend of 90% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah shows light meaty and leathery notes. Smooth and round, with wild berry fruits that make themselves felt nicely. Drinking nicely now-2008. Score 88. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Fellini, 2003: As we have come to know it, this blend of 60% Syrah and 40% Cabernet spent 18 mnths in French and American oak. Complex, with tempting spiciness overlaying wild berry, blackcurrant and meaty plums, with a tantalizingly sweet edge. Well balanced and moderately long, the wine is approachable now but will be best from 2006-2009. Score 90. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

Sea Horse, Munch, 2003: Named as a tribute to artist Edvard Munch, this 100% Petite Sirah spent 16 months in French and Americn oak. The best Petite Sirah ever from Israel, this exotic, spicy and complex wine shows layers of wild berry, plum, currant and black cherry fruits together with a generous peppery overlay and supple tannins. Drink now-2007, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Tasted 8 Dec 2004)

The Elul Vertical:

Elul, 2002: Deep garnet towards royal purple in color, this full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 6% Syrah, shows generous but soft and well-integrating tannins and jammy currant and berry aromas and flavors, set off by spices and toast, all showing appealing overtones of Mediterranean herbs. Plush and elegant, with a long finish that yields bittersweet chocolate. Best now–2008. Score 92.

Elul, 2001: Reflecting its 13 months in oak, this full-bodied, deep purple, non-filtered blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and 2% Syrah starts off as somewhat chunky and tannic but, given time to open, smoothens out to reveal earthy and herbal currant, black cherry and mineral flavors and aromas, all with lightly toasty oak and tannins that promise to integrate well. Drink now–2007. Score 91.

Elul, 2000: A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Syrah, this medium to full-bodied wine has opened beautifully and shows excellent balance between tannins, fruits and wood. Plenty of currant, cherry and plum flavors, all culminating in an enviably long and just spicy enough finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 91.

Elul, 1999: A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, this full-bodied wine was aged for 14 months in small oak barrels. Tight, with firm but well-integrated tannins and with an appealing earthiness to its plum, currant and spicy flavors, the wineis now a bit past its peak but is still showing good balance and finesse. Not meant for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 87.

December 2004