I found myself at the Tabor Winery for barrel tastings, advance tastings and several comparative re-tastings. In short, this is a winery that seems to go from strength to strength with winemaker Arieh Nesher fully in control of his vineyards and winery. My tastings today included several wines from the top-of-the-line Mes’cha series and quite a few from the Adama series. Within that series wines are released with the intention (successful, one must say) to reflect the different types of soil in the vineyards. In reading the labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil; gir is chalky soil; terra rosa is red earth; and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series under the label Tabor.
The winery has jumped from producing about 90,000 bottles in 2003 to about 150,000 in 2004. One can happily report that this well-planned increase in output reflects no negative impact whatever on the quality of the wines.
Several of these wines are scheduled to be released soon. The reviews of those wines are noted before their tasting notes with the symbol ~. The wines in the Adama series are scheduled to sell for NIS 59 and the Mescha wines for NIS 85.
Tabor is the first local winery to release several of their wines under Stelcap screwcaps. Those are the two Chardonnays and two Sauvignon Blanc wines.
Best,
Rogov
~Tabor, Chardonnay, Bazelet, Adama 2004: Light gold, medium-bodied, with citrus and tropical fruits on a lightly earthy background. Good balancing acidity keeps the wine lively and hints of earthiness and herbaceousness add complexity. Drink from release-2007. Score 88. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Chardonnay, Bazelet, Adama, 2003: Golden straw in color, with green reflections, this supple wine has a pleasing earthy accent to its citrus, hazelnut and pineapple notes. Appealing ripe pear flavors on the finish make this a deep, complex and satisfying wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Chardonnay, Gir, Adama, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Crisp, clean and with abundant minerals on the nose and palate, those matched well by citrus and melon fruits. Reminds of a Petit Chablis. Drink now-2006. Score 87. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Chardonnay, Gir, Adama, 2003: Reflecting three months in new French and American oak, this light to medium-bodied straw colored wine shows an appealing touch of spicy-vanilla laden wood together with green apple and citrus fruits. Not long or complex, with a hint of bitterness now creeping in but still quite pleasing. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Chardonnay, Mes’cha, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Going towards deep-gold, medium- to full-bodied, with appeling pear, citrus and a hint of mango, the fruits on a background of spicy oak and with an appealing buttery texture. Good balance between wood, acidity and fruits. All in all a complex and appealing wine. Drink from release-2007, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Chardonnay, Mes’cha, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deep golden straw in color, this medium to full-bodied white reflects its 4 months in oak with hints of smoky and spicy oak together with rich, lightly creamy layers of pear, honey and apricots. Complex and long. Drink now–2006. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Charsit, Adama, 2004: Lightly oaked (2 months in barriques), light gold in color, medium-bodied and with lively grassy, citrus and citrus peel aromas and flavors, calling to mind the wines of France’s Loire Valley. Refreshing , with appealing complexity and surprisingly long finish. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Gir, Adama, 2004: Unoaked, crisply dry with light herbal and earthy hints on a background of grapefruit, orange peel and minerals. Fresh, refreshing and generous. Drink from release-2007. Score 87. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Cabernet Franc, Rose, Charsit, Adama, 2004: Bright cherry red in color, crisply dry, with good balancing acidity and appealing berry, cherry and plum aromas and flavors. A lovely breakfast or brunch wine but medium-bodied and round strong enough to stand up to grilled chicken, fish or veal dishes. A well made and “fun” wine. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 87. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Shiraz, Charsit, Adama, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with soft tannins, good hints of smoky oak and sweet cedar, and generous black plums, berries and currants. Still in its infancy but showing promise to be a simultaneously complex and easy-to-drink wine. Best from release-2007, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Shiraz, Charsit, Adama, 2003: Deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins but those well integrated with spicy oak, vanilla and generous red plum and currant fruits. On the long finish, appealingly light meaty and herbal overtones. Best 2006-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Merlot, Gir, Adama, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Well done and nicely reflecting the soil from which the grapes came. Youthful royal purple in color, medium-bodied, with generous but soft and well-integrating tannins. Good balance between wood and blackberry, currant and light spicy and earth overtones. Best 2006-2008. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Merlot, Gir, Adama, 2003: Dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, and somewhat internationalized in style with soft tannins, hints of sweet cedar wood and forward plum, currant fruits. Turns a bit more complex on the lightly herbal finish. Drink now-2006. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Merlot, Gir Adama , 2002: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark cherry red toward garnet, this medium-bodied, lightly oaked wine has a somewhat muted nose but shows very well on the palate, opening to reveal dark plums, currants, smooth tannins and a rich lingering finish. Drink now. Score 87. K ( Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Merlot, Bazelet, Adama, 2003: Opening beautifully now, reflecting its 12 months in oak with appealing smoky and vanilla overlays and showing tempting blackcurrant, purple plum and berry fruits. A distinctly French-style wine, well balanced and generous. Drink now-2007. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Merlot, Bazelet, Adama, 2001: With a deep garnet color, and reflecting its aging in French and American oak, this medium to full-bodied red is aromatic, round and mouth-filling. Features currant, spice and black cherry flavors, smooth and polished tannins, and a rich finish with fruits that fan out beautifully on the palate. Drink now. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Rosa, Adama, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deep ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with good balance between yielding tannins, a light spicy wood overlay and cassis, wild berry and plum fruits. Round, satisfying and moderately long. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
~Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Rossa, Adama, 2003: Dark royal purple, almost inky but somehow bright, this medium to full-bodied red is already showing appealing currant, cherry and spice flavors and aromas. Inherent good balance between soft tannins, acidity and fruits and an appealingly spicy finish.. Drink now-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Rosa, Adama, 2002: Dark, tight and firm but well focused and opening nicely in the glass to reveal an array of ripe cherry, currant, spice, anise and lightly toasty oak flavors. Supple and well focused with just the right hints of tannins that come to the fore on the long finish. Drink now. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mescha, 2001: Dark garnet red, medium- to full-bodied, with good balance betweeen firm but nicely integrating tannins, spicy oak and an appealing array of blackcurrant, plums, smoke and fresh earthy aromas and flavors. Long and mouthfilling. Drink now-2008. Score 90. K (Tasted 4 Apr 2005)
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mescha, 2000: Full-bodied, concentrated and intense, this deeply tannic wine opens slowly in the glass to show black fruits, cigar tobacco, tar, and earthy aromas and flavors. Still firm and muscular, but finally showing signs of opening. Drink now-2008. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 4 Apr 2005)