Much of my day was devoted to visiting the Tabor Winery, there for barrel, advance and re-tastings in the company of winemaker Arieh Nesher and CEO Oren Sela as well as several of the senior representatives of the Central Bottling Company, the Israeli division of Coca Cola that owns 51% of the winery. The tasting was a formal one but to be fully certain of my tasting notes, on return home I arranged for a re-tasting of all but the barrel samples in my own tasting room, matching the wines with similar wines from other wineries in and outside of Israel.

European-trained winemaker Arieh Nesher is currently releasing wines in three series. The top-of-the-line label is Mes’cha, a series of varietal wines that now includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. A second label, Tabor-Adama, reflects the type of soils in the vineyards. In reading the labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil or earth; gir is chalky soil; terra rosa is red earth; and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series released under the label Tabor.

Founded in 1999 by several grape-growing families in the village of Kfar Tabor in the Lower Galilee, this modern winery draws on white grapes largely from their own vineyards near Mount Tabor and on red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Initial production was of 20,000 bottles and current production is about 270,000 bottles annually. Definitely a winery to be taken seriously and most assuredly one of the wineries offering excellent value for money. As to more good news, despite earlier fears, at least to date there is no sign that the controlling Central Bottling Company is interfering in any way with winemaking procedures or philosophy, concerning themselves (and rightly so, if I may be allowed that editorial comment) entirely with distribution and long-term planning.

Two especially interesting developments, the first of these in the winery's acquisition of two new oak vats, both from French barrel producer Tonnellerie Cooperage Seguin Moreau, both of those of 2,000 liter capacity, the thought being to allow for longer barrel aging of several of the Mes'cha wines without the oak imposing too great an influence (the larger the surface area of the interior of the barrel, the more controllable the immediate impact of the wood on the wine). I shall follow the wines developing in those casks with great interest.

The second development and a very positive surprise for me was the tasting of a red dessert wine that makes no effort at all to imitate either Port or Vin Santo but stands well on its own with neither tricks nor pretensions.

My tasting notes follow. Please note that many of the barrel samplings are based on component parts and not yet final blends so scores for those should indeed be taken as tentative.

Rogov

Adama Series

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, deep and round, showing good balance between wood, soft tannins and a tempting array of cassis, berry, citrus peel and earthy-herbal aromas and flavors.

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Terra Rosa, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, with soft, near-sweet tannins and hints of spices and vanilla from the wood in which it is developing. On the nose and palate red plums, blackberries and blackcurrants, those complemented by hints of earthy minerals. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Bazelet, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Deep garnet in color, with deep purple and orange reflections, medium- to full-bodied, and with good balance between smoky wood, acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate concentrated currant and blackberry fruits matched by espresso and vanilla. Seductive and elegant. Best from 2007-2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon, Adama, Terra Rosa 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with spicy wood, soft tannins integrating nicely and red currant, blackberry and plums on the nose and palate, those backed up by an appealing hint of earthiness that lingers nicely. Drink from release-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Chardonnay, Adama, Bazelet, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Fermented in barriques with no malolactic fermentation encouraged. Clean, crisp and fresh, medium-bodied, with citrus and peach fruitiness matched nicely by gentle wood and lively acidity leading to a long finish. Drink now-2007. Score 88. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Adama, Gir, 2005: Light straw in color, this unoaked white starts off with subdued aromas and flavors but given time in the glass opens to reveal grassy, mineral, citrus and nutty aromas and flavors. Round and full of flavor. Drink now. Score 88 K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Rose, Adama, Charsit, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, with a deep pink color that typifies peaches in their first bloom, showing appealing currant, red berry and rose petal aromas and flavors, those with a hint of earth on the finish. A 14% alcohol content, medium-bodied and with very appealing depth indeed. A delicious, crisply dry rose for either fun quaffing or as a comfortable match with fish, seafood or poultry dishes. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form, but showing medium- to full-body, promising hints of vanilla from American oak and spicy wood from French. Soft tannins here well balanced by good acidity and raspberry, cassis and a light earthy overtone. Promising soft, round elegance. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-90.K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in French oak, medium-dark ruby towards garnet in color, with near-sweet tannins set off nicely by a hint of bitter herbs and those showing hints of spicy cedar, blackcurrants, and berries. Best 2008-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet towards royal purple in color, with generous wood influence and deep tannins in fine balance with blackcurrant, plum and wild berry fruits. On the moderately-long finish hints of eucalyptus and chocolate. Drink from release-2008. Score 88. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Gir, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Living comfortably up to its barrel-tasting promises. Medium-bodied, with gentle spicy oak influences and soft tannins integrating nicely, with raspberry, blackberry, cassis and light earthy overtones, a round, smooth and near-elegant wine. Drink from release-2008, perhaps longer. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Mescha Series

Tabor, Mescha, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz (80%, 15% and 5% respectively), this deep garnet, medium- to full-bodied wine reflects its 18 months in oak with still firm tannins, those integrating nicely and opening to reveal blackcurrant, berry and plum fruits on a background of spicy wood and Mediterranean herbs. Generous, well-balanced and long. Drink from release-2009. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Mescha, 2002: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this medium- to full-bodied red shows firm tannins integrating nicely now with spicy oak and generous currant and wild berry fruits, those matched nicely by hints of spices, earthiness and tobacco on the finish. Drink now-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 8 Mar 2006)

Tabor, Red Dessert Wine, Mescha, 2003: Generous sweetness here but that balanced nicely by natural acidity, medium- to full-bodied but light enough in character to make you feel that it is floating on the palate and with aromas and flavors of dark cherries, raspberries, toffee and burned orange peel. An original in every sense – not striving to be either a Vin Santo or a Port, but a wine that is bound to bring a smile to your face. Perhaps best with an after-dinner cigar, but those who don't indulge in that minor sin will find that this one goes well on its own or with fine cheeses. Score 89. K (Tasted 8 Mar 2006)