Phone call from Tal Shaked inviting me to taste several local wines about which he refused to say a single word.

No critic or wine lover worth his salt would dream of rejecting such an invitation so at precisely 15:30 this afternoon Tal picked me up in his car and we began to drive. Tal, for those who may not know him, is a charming young man but even though he was willing to discuss just about any subject under the sun he revealed absolutamente nada about the wines in question or even about to where precisely in the country we were driving. I was beginning to think that like Billy Pilgrim, I had been caught up in a Kurt Vonnegut novel.

On arrival at our destination we were met by Kobi and Oran Shaked and I was led to a cellar that held both a storage room and a tank and barrel room and there the mystery begin to unravel. The three have formed a new winery, "Trio" by name, the first wines, approximately 4,000 bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon from the 2006 vintage and the second of about 8,000 bottles from the 2007 vintage and an anticipated 15,000 from the 2008 vintage. From what I gather, the three are equal partners in the venture, with Oran serving in the role of winemaker.

All in all I tasted both of the 2006 wines, now in bottles and quite soon to appear on the market and from a dozen or more tank and barrel samples of what will eventually be blended into the 2007 wines with primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes as well as a small amount of Merlot coming largely from the Judean Hills and the Upper Galilee. With a generous selection of oak casks (Bordeaux and Burgundy style) from both North America and France, the barrel and tank tastings were a challenge – each reflecting its specific oak and/or the use of oak staves.

Rogov

First releases are a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, "Trio – The Spirit of Jerusalem Heights" or "Trio – The spirit of the Jerusalem Hills"(final name yet to be decided) and the second "Trio – The Secret". My tasting notes follow. I believe the tasting notes fairly well sum up the intent and philosophy of this new winery.

Trio, The Spirit of The Jerusalem Hills, 2006: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, with a light and tantalizing hint of spicy wood and gently mouth-coating tannins integrating nicely and parting easily to show the fruits. Medium- perhaps medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet in color and opening in the glass to reveal red currant, blackberry and raspberry fruits along with gentle hints of white chocolate all of which linger nicely on the long finish. Elegant in a not-at-all pretentious manner and despite its hints of complexity as easy to drink on its own or with lamb chops, steaks or even grilled lobsters. Drink now-2010. Score 90. (Tasted 9 March 2008)

Trio, Secret, 2006: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, with still gripping tannins and just the right dose of spicy and vanilla-rich oak to add charm but not hide the fruits. Needs a bit of time but as this one develops in the bottle look for a full-bodied and round wine one that is both muscular and gentle at the same time, opening in the glass to reveal a generous red fruit personality, the fruits tempered nicely by spices, cigar tobacco and hints of dark chocolate. At a guess, as the wine matures look as well for a hints of cedar wood and mint. Best from 2009. Score 92. (Tasted 9 Mar 2008)

As to the 2007 wines – fascinating tasting from different barrels and different tanks but far too early to write tasting notes. As to direction though – these three young (well, certainly when compared to me) guys are most certainly doing things right!