The morning of Sunday, 13 January 2008 found me at the Tzora Vineyards. There to meet with winemaker Eran Pick to do barrel, advance and re-tastings. California-trained and having done work-stages there as well as in Bordeaux and Australia, Pick was brought aboard by the winery's founder Ronnie James in 2006. As James has been a devotee (Tony Aspler described him as an "inspired viticulturist") of the importance of terroir, so is Pick maintaining that tradition, the winery now releasing wines in only four series, three of those named after the single vineyards from which the grapes were harvested and one a blend made from two vineyards.
Private investment has added state-of-the-art equipment to the winery and, together with the kibbutz which remains a part-owner the winery controls its own vineyards, those yielding Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Johannisberg Riesling and Gewurztraminer. The winery selects only about 40% of the grapes raised for their own wines, those they consider the very best, and the remaining grapes go to other wineries in the region. The Tzora wines have been kosher since the 2002 vintage.
Among other conclusions: (a) the winery continues to move in the directions of wine that have a distinct Mediterranean nature; (b) there is a clear direction towards a fine combination of concentration and elegance, and (c) I see a movement towards wines that while quite approachable on release will show somewhat greater aging ability than in the past.
My thanks to Eran Pick and to Dudu the winery's Mashgiach for a rewarding tasting and their good company. Should anyone be interested, the winery now has an espresso machine. Oh yes, after my tasting I met Ze'ev Dunie and, before catching the train back to Tel Aviv we lunched (hold your breath) at McDonald's (Big Mac in my case, Royal Mac in his case, both with chips and Coca Cola). No fear - we laughed heartily at ourselves.
Best
Rogov
Tzora Vineyards, Gewurztraminer, Shoresh Blanc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Bright golden in color, opening on the nose with what seem like sweet fruits but comes to the palate as completely dry showing litchi, kiwi and peach fruits. Medium-bodied, soft, round and caressing and ends with a light honeyed note that lingers nicely. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Givat Hachalukim, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, generously aromatic and opening to reveal a medium- to full-bodied red with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood and fruits. On the nose and palate opening with raspberries, those going to blackberries, currants and hints of orange peel. Firm but yielding, generous and long. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components but already showing the potential for elegance. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied (perhaps destined in the end to be full-bodied) with generous mouth-coating tannins and spicy wood in fine balance with red currant and wild berry fruits, those on a background that hints nicely of tobacco and freshly turned soil. Rich and firm but with the clear promise for elegance. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah, Shoresh, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost inky garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm, still gripping but near-sweet tannins needing time to integrate but already promising fine balance and structure. Opens with black currants and purple plums, those coming together nicely with grilled herbs, cigar tobacco and, on the long finish appealing hints of saddle leather and bitter orange peel. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Judean Hills, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and reflecting its 12 months in oak with a gentle spiciness. A blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas and flavors of cassis, blackberries and an appealing hint of vanilla. Easy to drink but with just enough complexity to catch our attention. Drink from release-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Givat Hachalukim, 2006: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, with softly caressing tannins and reflecting a gentle hand with oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with generous currant wild berry fruits, those matched nicely by hints of anise and white pepper. Finishes moderately long with a note of minted chocolate. Drink now-2009, perhaps somewhat longer. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Neve Ilan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing nicely as predicted at an earlier barrel tasting. Medium- to full-bodied, deep garnet towards royal purple, with tannins now softening and integrating nicely with wood and fruits. Opens with raspberries and red currants, those yielding to red plums, spices and earthy minerals. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shoresh, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark royal-purple, with appealingly herbal and earthy notes. Medium to full-bodied, showing generous cherry, berry and cassis fruits, those finishing with hints of coffee and tobacco. Drink from release–2010. Tentative Score 88–90. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon, Meubanim, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Meubanim is a sub-section of the Shoresh vineyard, an area of particularly low yield and that judged to be individual enough in personality that the grapes were separated for this special blend. Full-bodied, with firm almost puckering tannins and leathery and gamy on the nose but showing promise for integration and a muscular kind of elegance. Opens to reveal red currants, raspberries, chocolate and tobacco. Long, intense and mouthfilling. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Merlot, Shoresh, 2005: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely. Opens to show a fine array of berry, black cherry and citrus peel, those leading to a moderately long finish. Still showing a bit sharp on the palate but with a bit of time in the bottle this will settle down very nicely. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2008)
Tzora Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Neve Ilan, 2005: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, dark ruby towards garnet in color, full-bodied with tannins showing more gripping and with somewhat earthy and herbal aromas and flavors rising, the fruits are more subdued than at an earlier tasting. Continuing to show black fruits and hints of licorice. Perhaps at the onset of a dumb period. To be re-tasted in six months. Hold this one for a while. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 13 Jan 2007)
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