Afternoon (Sunday, 13 Apr 2008) found me at the Vitkin Winery, there with Doron and Sharona Belogolovsky and winemaker Assaf Paz for re-tastings, advance tastings and barrel tastings. As many of us have learned,Vitkin has chosen to focus on varietal wines such as Pinot Noir, Carignan, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Franc and blends (e.g. Viognier, French Colombard and Gewurztraminer; and Syrah-Carignan, Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc). Call that just a little bit crazy if you like but it seems to work in several ways – the varietals and the blends somewhat out of the run-of-the-mill and the results quite successful.

The winery is currently producing about 40,000 bottles annually and this dynamic trio hopes to build a new winery (including a visitors' center) and to expand in the not-too-distant future. Whatever – the winery has certainly and justifiably captured the imagination of sophisticated wine drinkers. My thanks to Doron, Sharona and Assaf for their courtesies during my visit, for a fine tasting and for their good company.

Wines noted with prices are those currently available on the market. Those who may have a problem locating these wines can call the winery at 052-5866655 to find the outlet nearest you carrying them or to order directly from the winery. Although the winery is now exporting to Canada, their wines are not now in the USA. The winery can, however, make arrangement to accept orders and ship directly to private parties in the USA.

My tasting notes follow, those in the order of my tasting. Interestingly, many of the just released wines, especially from the 2007vintage showed somewhat more charm than at an earlier on-release tasting about two months ago.

Best
Rogov

Vitkin, Blanc, Israeli Voyage, 2007: A blend of 60% Viognier, 30% old vine French Colombrd and 10% Gewurztraminer, aged on its lees partly in stainless steel and partly in large oak casks. Light- to medium-bodied, freshly aromatic and showing red grapefruit, tropical fruit and white peaches on a lightly spicy background. Dry but with a very pleasant hint of sweetness that makes the wine fine either as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to grilled fish and seafood dishes. Finishes fresh and lively. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 65. Score 88. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Johannisberg Riesling, 2006: Light gold in color, opens with a floral and petrol nose and then goes on to reveal grapefruit, bitter orange peel and notes of green apples. Spicy and long. Drink now-2010. NIS 75. Score 88. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Gewurztraminer, Limited Edition, 2007: Light- to medium-bodied, light golden in color, so crispy dry that if this were a Champagne you would categorize it as "extra brut". On first attack a floral (look especially for rose petals) and spicy nose and on the palate litchis, peaches and peach pits,those supported nicely by a vague but tantalizing near-bitter overtone. Crisp, clean and refreshing. Drink now-2009. NIS 80. Score 88. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Pink, Israeli Voyage, 2007: Bright red enough that a glance might make you think this rose wine was cherry or raspberry juice. Anything but! Light- to medium-bodied, a blend of Tempranillo, Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, showing raspberry and cassis fruits, those with an overlay of jam-like strawberries. Crisply dry, with lively acidity, a refreshing and "fun" wine. Drink now. NIS 65. Score 88. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin Pinot Noir, 2006: Developed for about 10 months partly in new barrels and partly in 350 liter barrels formerly used with Viognier. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely, showing gentle spicy, mushroom forest-floor notes, those supporting cassis and fine red and black berries. From mid-palate on hints of roasted cashew nuts and smoke along with an appealing hint of bitter almonds on the finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 89. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Red, Israeli Voyage, 2006: Garnet towards royal purple, aged in new and used French oak for 10 months, showing good balance between lightly spicy wood, soft tannins and hints of vanilla and Mediterranean herbs all of which support aromas and flavors of currant, plum and berry fruits, all leading to a generously peppery finish.. Medium- to full-bodied, and well balanced, a blend of 45% each of Syrah and Carignan and 10% Cabernet Franc. On the generous finish Drink now-2009. NIS 70. Score 87. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Carignan, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Carignan grapes and developed in new 360 liter French oak casks for 15 months. Full-bodied, with firm tannins just starting to settle in, deep garnet in color and showing fine extraction. On first attack showsprimarily spicy black fruits those yielding to "let loose" notes of mint and freshly turned earth. Warm and generous with fruits and tannins rising on the long finish. Best 2009-2012. Score 89. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Ripe and polished, a blend of 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Petit Verdot. Agd in new French oak and showing gentle near-sweet cedar notes along with soft tannins that are integrating nicely. On the note and palate currants and black cherries, those parting to reveal notes of toasted white bread, figs and tobacco. On the long and mouth-filling finish a hint of mocha. Best 2009-2013, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Made from old vine grapes and oak-aged for 16 months. Full-bodied, impenetrably dark purple-black, with deep spicy overlays and firm tannins all coming together beautifully. On the nose and palate blackberry and blueberries, those matched nicely by notes of white pepper, tobacco and cedar and, on the long finish enchanting hints of raspberry jam. Drink now–2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Red, Israeli Journey, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins, and gentle wood influences, a round and generous, deep garnet blend of Carignan, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Opens with a light floral note, goes on to red plums, currants and berries on a light earthy-mineral background. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Carignan, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): As many of the Vitkin wines, reflecting the sensitive use of new and old oak with a gentle dose of spicy and vanilla rich wood, with tannins still firm but needing only a bit of time to settle down. On the nose and palate raspberries, dark cherries, minerals and spices. A long finish with tannins, fruits and notes of pepper rising. Best from release 2012. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Petite Sirah, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Whenever I taste one of Vitkin's Petite Sirah it is first the California wines of Helen Turley and then those of Rosenblum that come to mind, all to date having the traditional rich huckleberry, boysenberry and blackberry notes that we have come to associate with the better wines of this variety. And then kicks in the typical Vitkin touch – of minerals, chocolate-covered cherries and firm, somewhat chunky, country-style tannins that rise and linger very nicely on the long finish. Drink from release-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Cabernet Franc, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Cabernet Franc in all its dark purple glory. Deep but silky tannins, a light hand with the oak and full-bodied, opening to show aromas and flavors of blackberry and currant fruits, the aromas and flavors soaring and with a long, stylish finish. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)

Vitkin, Late Harvest 2006: With a bit of French Colombard and Viognier blended in, light golden, showing generous sweetness and concentration set off nicely by balancing acidity. Opens to show citrus and dried apricots those lightly honeyed and on a background of heather and spring flowers. Good intensity and length here. This one will age nicely. Drink now-2013. Score 89. (Tasted 13 Apr 2008)