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>> Rogov's Tastes » Alexander - March 2006

Yesterday found me at the Alexander Winery, there in the company of owner-winemaker Yoram Shalom and two of his staff doing barrel tastings and advance tastings.

Founded in 1996 by Shalom and located on Moshav Beit Yitzhak in the Sharon region, the winery receives its grapes largely from contract vineyards at Kerem Ben Zimra, the winery having full control over those vineyards. Primary output to date has been of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Currently coming on line are Syrah and Grenache.

Growth has been steady, increasing from about 12,000 bottles in 2002 to 45,000 in 2005. With the 2006 vintage the winery will switch over to kosher production and anticipated production for that harvest is 60,000-70,000 bottles. In addition to producing two top-of-the-line series, Alexander the Great and The Wine of Alexander, the winery also releases Sandro, which might be thought of as a second wine, a Port-style wine and private label wines for several restaurants. The winery continues to comfortably earn its four stars in my book, those indicating a winery consistently producing high-quality wines.

On a potentially amusing note, the winemaker commented that he is considering making a GSM wine. The usual Australian GSM is of course a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Considering that the winery has no access to Mourvedre grapes, he is thinking in terms of Grenache-Syrah-Merlot.

On a more serious note, my tasting notes follow.

Best
Rogov


Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes harvested from 26 year old vines (and believe me, in Israel that is vieilles vignes indeed), this medium- to full-bodied dark garnet red wine shows soft tannins, spicy wood and a tempting array of mineral, black fruit, herbal and chocolate aromas. On the long finish look as well for cloves and a teasing hint of iodine. Best starting in 2009 and then cellaring comfortably for 4 – 5 years longer. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Reflecting the oak in which it developed with firm, near-sweet tannins, hints of smoke and a complex array of currant, herbal and mineral aromas and flavors. Generous and long. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Re-tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander the Great, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Generous wood and tannins here but those in fine balance with currant, plum and herbal aromas and flavors, those complemented on the long and concentrated finish by mocha and sweet cedar. Long and geneous. Best 2007-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. (Re-tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, bright and clear dark ruby in color, with generous soft tannins and already showing vanilla and spices from the casks in which it is aging. On the nose and palate rich blackcurrant and blackberry fruits along with hints of earthiness. Generous and long. Approachable from release but will cellar nicely until 2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel): Deep royal purple in color, with firm but nicely integrating tannins and hints of spicy wood and tobacco balanced nicely by a generous array of black plum, raspberry, cassis aromas and flavors. Seductive black plum, raspberries, cassis and chocolate coming together and lingering as an elegant whole. Best from 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Merlot, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely. Round and generous with cassis, blackberry, black cherry fruits accompanied by hints of pepper and nutmeg. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 86-88. (Re-tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Grenache, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): No final decision has been made yet as to whether this will be released as a varietal wine or as a blending agent but oh, what a lovely wine at this early stage of its development. Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins that give the wine some sharp edges at this stage but already opening to reveal dark plum, blackberries, herbal and spicy aroma and flavors. Potential for excellence. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Syrah, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple in color, full bodied, with deep but remararkably soft tannins. Already showing hints of spicy wood, freshly turned earth, and spices, those on a background of black fruits, all the time with a hint of smoked meat. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Rose, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Grenache grapes, this deep pink towards ruby wine shows light- to medium-body, crisp acidity and a fun array of tutti-frutti aromas and flavors that is bound to make you smile, those including bananas, raspberries, strawberries and chopped citrus peel. Especially pleasant on its own or with Japanese food. Drink from release. Score 87. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Unoaked, straw colored, with good concentration and bright and lively, offering up generous lime, citrus peel, green apple and grapefruit matched by hints of herbs, honeysuckle and sweet peas on a tart and lively finish that lingers nicely. Drink from release. Score 88. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Chardonnay, Lisa, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium bodied but sitting plump on the palate, developing in new Burgundy oak casks and already showing an appealing oak influence. Lively and appealing with citrus, melon, and apple aromas and flavors, those lingering nicely on the long finish on which you will find hints of figs and pie crust. Drink from release. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Chardonnay, Lisa, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with tantalizing hints of cream and yeast. Opens with a distinct pineapple hint but that turns in the glass to fig, pear and apples, all with a spicy and pleasingly light bitter overtone. Drink now. Score 87. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)

Alexander, Chardonnay, Yama, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Opens quietly on the nose and palate but with time in the glass opens beautifully to reveal gentle smoky wood, pears and melon, those with overlays of caramel and toffee. Subdued elegance. Drink now -2007. Score 88. (Tasted 13 Mar 2006)