Amphorae, now settled comfortably into their new winery on the Makura Ranch on the western slopes of Mount Carmel is fortunate to find itself in an exquisite setting, the ranch set in a green and luxuriant mouth o a long dormant volcano. Here winemaker Gil Shatzberg, now working with assistant winemaker Roey Ben-Basat is well on the way to adding to my relatively new hypothesis – that is to say that the better Israeli wines are moving more and more in the direction of elegance and away from the sometimes sharp-edges to which some objected. In an interesting sense, more in a European than a New World direction.

Although production for Amphorae was as high as 70,000 bottles during the 2004 and 2005 vintage, low yields and a good deal of war damage (tanks digging up major sections of vineyards, cutting water-supply lines, and tearing down fences allowing the cows and wild boars free access to the grapes in the Upper Galilee) production for 2006 will be only about 40,000 bottles. As always the winery's top-of-the line series is Amphorae, second wines appear under the Rhyton label and the wines in the Med.Red series are destined for early drinking. Look in the near future for new releases in the Med.Red series – those including a Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of Cabernet and Syrah and a white, probably of Chardonnay and Viognier.

Keep in mind while reading my tasting notes that many of the Amphorae wines were tasted from yet unblended component parts (much as happens at the Bordeaux tastings). The challenge to the taster in such cases is increased five-fold and the true test (not of the wine but of the critic) will be how closely wines will be to the barrel-tasting estimates on release and afterwards.

Rogov

Amphorae, Reserve, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (70%, 15% and 15% respectively). Dark royal purple in color, deeply aromatic, full-bodied, with caressing fine tannins and on the nose and palate a complex array of currant, blackberry, blueberry, cedar and herbs as well as hints of cola on the long, generous finish. Delicious now but showing its elegance and at its best from 2009-2014. Score 93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a gentle hand with the wood, this is a supple and velvety wine offering blackcurrants, blackberry and raspberry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of tobacco and anise. Tightly wound now but with time will show complexity and elegance. Approachable early but best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 92-94. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, full-bodied, with mouth-coating near-sweet tannins well balanced by cedary oak. Concentrated and intense but remaining elegant and balanced, showing generous aromas and flavors of spicy plums, currants and mocha. A long mineral and sage rich finish. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Deeply aromatic, full-bodied, with firm but gently caressing tannins and showing fie balance and structure. On the nose and palate blackberries, currants, and black cherries, those set off nicely by mocha, vanilla and oak that is simultaneously spicy and creamy. As I wrote last year at an earlier barrel tasting, forward but not at all vulgar and on its way to elegance. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 91-93. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Garnet to adobe-brick red, this full-bodied, firmly tannic but harmonious wine shows fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate currant, black cherry, spices and hints of minted chocolate on the long finish. Best from release-2011. Score 91. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Merlot, Organic, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Made from grapes raised organically and by fully organic methods in the winery, this deep ruby red wine and deeply aromatic wine is showing medium- to full-bodied, with still gripping tannins but showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate near-sweet black cherries, blackberries and currant fruits, those showing appealing hints of spices and spring flowers. Comes together in a plush, long, open-textured finish. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins need time to settle down and a gentle hand with the wood, this seductive wine shows ripe blackberry, currant and wild berries, those with overlays of dark chocolate and freshly ground Arabica coffee beans. Complex and concentrated but even now showing elegance and very good length. Best starting 2009-2010 and then cellaring comfortably until 2013. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Firm, with chewy tannins matched handsomely by spicy wood, both of those integrating nicely and revealing currant, black cherry, vanilla bean and near-sweet cedar wood. This one will be tight, focused and rich from release but will show its elegance only from 2009 and then cellar well until 2013. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Merlot, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, this outstanding Merlot offers up aromas and flavors of black and red cherries, cassis and cedar wood and appealing spicy overtones from the wood. Best from release-2010. Score 91. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark cherry red, medium- to full-bodied, with rich, ripe tannins and generous peppery and leathery overlays highlighting blackberry, boysenberry and red plum fruits. Destined for length, breadth and elegance. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Syrah, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in American and French oak barrels, full-bodied, with softly caressing tannins. Round, ripe and generous, with red plums, raspberries, cherry and exotic spices supported nicely by hnts of black pepper, vanilla and citrus peel. Best 2009-2015. Tentative Score 92-94. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Syrah, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): My earlier barrel tasting holds firmly: Firm and well structured tannins now integrating and showing a core of leather, spicy wood and earthiness that highlight rich currant, wild berry, anise and lightly beefy flavors. On the long finish generous hints of espresso coffee, violets and toffee. Destined for elegance. Drink from release–2012. Tentative Score 90–92. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Chardonnay 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing 1/3 in new French barriques and 2/3 in stainless steel, this light golden colored wine shows medium-bodied with appealing citrus and pear fruits, those highlighted by stony minerals and a light but tantalizing hint of figs. Floats on the palate but fills the mouth generously. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Viognier, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with peach, nectarine, pear and mineral aromas and flavors balanced by flinty minerals and hints of almonds that run through to the long and vibrant finish. Surprisingly long for a Viognier. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 14 Jan 2007)

Amphorae, Rhyton, 2003 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 Merlot and 9% Syrah. Medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating well with generous but gentle oak and showing raspberries, cherry and cassis fruits along with white chocolate, a hint of spices and, on the moderately-long finish, a tantalizing hint of freshly turned earth. Best from release-2009. Score 89. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2007)