Wednesday morning (2 Apr 2008) found me at the Amphorae winery to do a series of tastings, re-tastings and barrel tastings. From the founding of the winery in 2000, the senior winemaker was Gil Shatzberg. In 2008, a generous handful of winemakers playing musical chairs, Shtazberg moved to Recanati Winery and Italian trained winemaker Roey Ben-Basat has now settled into that position.

Production from the 2000 vintage was 23,000 bottles, and current production is about 80,000 bottles annually. Top-of-the-line series is Amphorae with a Reserve wine issued in selected years; second wines are under the Rhyton label. Both of these series are age-worthy as are the wines in the regular Amphorae series. Wines in the Med.Red and Med.Blend series are meant for relatively early drinking.

For those curious enough, amphorae is the Greek term for tall, double-handled jugs with narrow necks and bases, often made of clay, that were used by the Greeks and later by the Romans for storing and shipping wine. The original rhyton was an ancient Greek cup, most often shaped like a drinking horn.

My thanks to Roey for a good tasting, his good company and for his courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov

Amphorae, Chardonnay, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Developing partly in barriques and partly in stainless steel, light golden in color, showing a light oaky note that yields to citrus, peach and tropical fruits, those on a light mineral background. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amhorae, Viognier, 2007 (Advance Tasting): The color of damp straw and blended with 5% of French, Colombard, this unoaked white shows lively floral, peach and nut flavors, those opening to hints of apricots. Not complex but a good quaffer meant for early drinking. Drink now. Score 86. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae Reserve, 2003: Made only in years considered especially good (first release was from 2000 and the next will be from 2005). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (70%, 15% and 15% respectively). Generously but not offensively oaked, dark garnet to royal purple,, deeply aromatic and full-bodied, with caressing tannins. On the nose and palate an elegant array of currant, blackberry, blueberry, cedar and herbs with hints of cola on the long, generous finish. Best 2009–2014. Score 93. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, full-bodied with very generous smoky and dusty oak on first attack, that happily settling down as the wine sits in the glass. A deep-garnet blend of 90% Cabernet Saucvignon with 5% each of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, showing fie balance between the wood, soft tannins and aromas and flavors of spicy plums, currants and espresso coffee. A long mineral-rich and sage finish. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. .(Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Deeply aromatic, full-bodied with firm tannins, showing fine balance and structure. On the nose and palate blackberries, currants, and black cherries, those off-set by mocha, vanilla and spicy oak. Drink now–2010. Score 91. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with its once chewy tannins now settling down nicely and matched comfortably by spicy wood all in fine balance with currant and black cherry fruits, those supported by hints of chocolate and licorice and, on the long finish a hint of sweet cedar. Tight, focused, rich and long. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Merlot, 2004: Garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely with generous wood, all coming together with purple plum, raspberry and briar notes, all lingering nicely with a tantalizing hint of bitter herbs that rises on the finish. Drink now-2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing in French oak and showing notes of appealing dusty wood. Medium- to full-bodied, opening with traditional Syrah spices, black pepper, leather and earthy-minerals, those yielding nicely to blackberry, boysenberry and plums. Long and elegant, with tannins and fruits rising simultaneously on the finish. Tentative score 90-92. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Syrah, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A full-bodied, aromatic and generous blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, showing soft, caressing tannins and generous peppery plum, wild berry, exotic spices and hints of roasted meat and earthy minerals. Round, ripe and long with notes of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Best 2009-2014. Score 92. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Rhyton, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards royal purple, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot with the Cabernet dominating. At this early stage showing a bit flabby, the tannins soft, the fruits holding back and spicy and chocolate notes dominating. Builds as it sits in the glass, so perhaps better with time. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Rhyton, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Showing darker garnet in color and more concentrated than at an earlier tasting. Medium to full-bodied, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah (50%, 30% and 20% respectively) opening nicely and offering blackberry, black cherry and currant fruits. Look for hints of chocolate and spices on the generous finish. Drink from release–2009. Tentative Score 87–89. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Ryhton, 2004: A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 10% Merlot, dark garnet, medium to full-bodied, with distinctly Provencal aromas and flavors of wild berries and cassis matched by hints of fresh mushrooms and spices. A few sharp edges add to the wine’s country-style charm. Drink now–2009. Score 88. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Rhyton 2003: This medium to full-bodied blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 9% Syrah shows firm tannins integrating well with generous but gentle oak; revealing raspberries, cherry and cassis fruits along with white chocolate, a hint of spices and, on the moderately long finish, a tantalizing hint of freshly turned earth. Drink now-2010. Score 89. (Re-tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amhorae, Med.Blend, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, garnet with purple reflections, and showing soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Syrah and 4% Merlot, showing racy black fruits and spices. Round and ready and easy to drink. Drink from release. Score 88. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Med. Blend, 2005: Medium-bodied, soft and round, with gentle wood and tannins highlighting aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries, raspberries and spices, all with hints of tobacco and chocolate on the finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)

Amphorae, Med.Blend, 2004: . This blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% each of Syrah and Merlot, was aged in French oak for 14 months and is showing medium to full-bodied, with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and a well-measured hand with spicy oak. On first attack red currants and wild strawberries, those leading to bitter cherries, tobacco and appealing herbal overtones. On the finish a tantalizing hint of anise.. Drink now. . Score 89. (Re-tasted. 2 Apr 2008)

Winemaker Ben-Basat is also making what he calls a ratafia. I suppose he and I could debate over this for a while for I would call it a reinforced wine. Whatever, although the French are convinced that they coined the term "ratafia", the word actually originated in New Orleans as part of the special Creole dialect. When first used the term referred exclusively to liqueurs made from a large variety of fruits (kumquats, cherries, melons, watermelons, quince) that are steeped in either wine, brandy or distilled alcohol. It was never used to refer to liqueurs made from grapes. Somewhere in the mid-19th century the usage of the term shifted somewhat, and since then when used accurately the term is refers almost exclusively to fruit based liqueurs produced either at home or on small farms. As to tasting notes…

Amphorae, Late Harvest Chardonnay, Ratafia, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Call this one a liqueur, call it an aperitif or call it a reinforced dessert wine as you like. Made from late-harvested Chardonnay grapes, reinforced with especially imported Italian grape alcohol to 17% alcohol content, showing deep sweetness but that well balanced by acidity, and although generously alcoholic there is no heat felt here. Deep gold with an orange tint, showing honeyed apples, dried apricots and appealing spicy hints. Probably at its best for dipping biscotti. Drink from release. Score 88. (Tasted 2 Apr 2008)