A good part of the morning, Thursday, 12 April, was devoted to barrel, advance and re-tastings of the wines of Avidan Winery. Founded in 2000 by Shlomo and Tsina Avidan who are now also working with their daughter Shira, this boutique winery is located on Kibbutz Eyal in the Sharon region. The winery relies on Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Merlot grapes selected from various vineyards in the Upper Galilee and the Judean Hills and is currently producing about 15,000 bottles annually. The winery is soon to move to larger facilities on the kibbutz. Wines are released in three series – the age-worthy Reserves, the varietal Avidan wines and the Blend des Noirs series, meant for earlier consumption. The Avidan wines have been of interest since they first appeared and this year the winery rises to my list of "up-and-coming" wineries.

My thanks to the Avidans for an interesting tasting and for their courtesies.

Best
Rogov

Avidan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A traditional Cabernet with a twist. Oak aged for 16 months, full-bodied, blended with 15% of Merlot, and showing traditional blackberry and blackcurrant aromas and flavors but (and this is where the twist comes in), bold for its firm tannins, and distinctive peppery and anise overtones leading to a long and mouth-filling finish. Best 2008-2012. Perhaps the best from the winery to date. Best 2008-2012.Projected release price - NIS 119. Score 91. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Made from an Australian clone but with a distinctly Rhome nose and palate. Developed for 16 months in French oak, a generous mouthful of blackberry, blueberry, plum and cherry fruits, those overlaid nicely by hints of leather, earth and Oriental spices that go on to a long finish. Best 2008-2011.Projected release price - NIS 119. Score 90. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Merlot, Blend des Noirs, 2005: A blend of 1/3 each of the varietals named, each oak-aged for 10 months before the final blend was made. Medium- to full-bodied, dark garnet, with tannins now integrating nicely with spicy wood and showing an appealing array of currant, plum and berry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of tobacco and saddle leather. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 69. Score 87. (Re-tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Merlot, Cabernet, Shiraz, Blend des Noirs, 2005: Oak-aged for 10 months, dark garnet towards royal-purple, this blend of grapes (50%, 35% and 15% respectively as listed on the label) shows
medium- to full bodied, with firm, almost gripping tannins, those opening to reveal aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants and espresso coffee, all leading to a medium-long near-sweet finish. Drink now-2008. NIS 59. Score 86. (Re-tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Peite Soleil, 2006: Call this Vendange Tardives or late harvest as you like. Made from Chardonnay grapes, with a nice hint of wood from six months of aging in Burgundy style barrels, and showing citrus, tropical and crème brulee aromas and flavors. Intentionally off-dry so perhaps not for everyone but lively, appealing and with just enough complexity to make you think. NIS 69. Score 87. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

As to barrel tastings, the following notes are based on not yet blended wines and the projections are my own. As sometimes, I say, another opportunity at waiting a few years to see (a) how accurate and thus how wise or (b) how inaccurate and thus how foolish I was. Also tasted were several varietal wines destined for blending, but those will hold for the article I am now writing about the challenges, the joys and the dangers of barrel tastings.

Avidan, Shiraz, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Almost impenetrably deep garnet in color, opening with a light but pleasing musky aroma that fades in the glass and opens to reveal a wine so dense full-bodied that one might think of it as having the consistency of syrup. All of which is fine though as the wine unfolds on the palate revealing soft tannins, rich blackberry, dark plum and peppery spices. Generous tannins here but those nicely integrated and overall showing fine balance. Long and generous. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Petite Sirah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep garnet in color, full-bodied, and with ripe and supple tannins. Opens with a mint-like nose, that going on to aromas and flavors of plums, blueberries and huckleberry fruits, all backed up by light hints of spices and grilled meat, all lingering nicely on the chewy finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Avidan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and generous black fruits supported by earthy minerals. Given time will develop intriguing tobacco and chocolate aromas and flavors. Generous fruits rise on the long finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

And finally, two dessert wines:

Avidan, Ruby, n.v (Advance Tasting).: Call this a Port-style wine or call it Ruby as written on the label if you like and I'll forgive you for this brandy reinforced red wine, by whatever name, is one of the few worthwhile red dessert wines made in Israel today. Naming names aside, dark ruby in color, rich and complex, loaded with spices, walnut, nutmeg and espresso coffee on raspberry and cassis fruits. Smooth, well balanced, with no syrupy feeling the wine will be ready to drink from release. Score 89. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)

Gold (Tentative Name), n.v. (Advance Tasting): A white dessert wine based on Chardonnay grapes, the wine reinforced with brandy to a 17% alcohol level. Generous maple syrup sweetness set off nicely by spices, orange peel and an appealing floral hint that lingers nicely. Drink from release. Not complex but easy to enjoy. Score 87. (Tasted 12 Apr 2007)