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>> Rogov's Tastes » Benhaim - March 2007

My morning ,Monday, 12 Mar 2007, was devoted to a visit to and tastings at the Benhaim winery. Founded in 1997 by the Benhaim family on Moshav Kfar Azar. The winery is currently producing 32,000-35,000 bottles annually from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Muscat. Also under development are vineyards with Shiraz and Traminette. The winery also produces a Port-style wine. With their own vineyards now planted on the eastern slopes of Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee, the winery is planning to expand its production to 50,000–60,000 bottles. Wines are released in three series—Grande Reserve, Reserve and Traditional and have been kosher since the 2001 vintage.

My thanks to the Benhaim family for their courtesies during my visit and tasting. My thanks as well for one of the last existing bottles of the winery's 1998 Grande Reserve which will be re-tasted and reported on within the next few days.

 

Best
Rogov

 

Benhaim, Grande Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Showing somewhat better than at earlier tastings. Reflectng more than two years in new oak with full-body, generous spicy and dusty wood and firm tannins that, as in its infancy tended to overpower the fruits. Given time in the glass opens to reveal currant, purple plum and chocolate, but the wood rising again on the finish. Drink now-2009. K. Score 86. (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Grande Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001: Dark garnet with distinct clearing at the rim, full mature but still drinking nicely. The once generous oak and firm tannins now integrating somewhat but still holding back the black fruits that feel somewhat muted and rise only on the medium-long finish. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Grande Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000: As in its youth, still with very generous spicy and smoky oak and firm tannins, those opening slowly in the glass to reveal a generous earthy, herbal and mineral personality. Drink up. Score 85. (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999: Some may disagree with me, but even after this seventh tasting of this wine, I still find it reflecting its 26 months in oak as a wood and tannin bomb. Now, perhaps singing its swan song, those opening to reveal super-ripe plum fruits. A hint of barnyard flavor sneaking in. Drink up. Score 80. (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Still in an embryonic state but showing dark royal purple towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with generous soft-tannins and the onset of spicy and dusty oak. On the nose and palate black currants, berries and plums, with light herbal and green olive overtones Round and well-balanced. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A medium- to full-bodied blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah (90%, 7% and 3% respectively), with soft, mouth-coating tannins and showing generous dusty and spicy oak from its 24 months in barriques. Opens slowly to reveal currant and blackberry fruits, those matched nicely by generous hints of Oriental spices and leather. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Bemhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003: Deep ruby towards garnet in color, this blend of Cabernet Sauignon, Merlot and Petite Sirah (88%, 7% and 5% respectively) opens with generous oak and tannins, but those now integrating nicely to reveal currant, berry and purple plum fruits, those with appealing overlays of chocolate and vanilla. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tradition, 2003: My previous tasting note holds firmly: A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 5% Petite Sirah, this dark garnet, medium to full-bodied wine reflects its 14 months in barriques with generous spicy oak and tannins that are now settling down nicely and showing fine balance with currant blackberry, chocolate and notes of espresso coffee on the long finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Merlot, Traditional, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend but already showing medium-bodied, with soft, mouthcoating tannins and spicy wood. Youthful royal purple in color, opens on the palate to show generous wild berries, spices and a hint of chocolate. Best from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Merlot Traditional, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards ruby in color, medium-bodied, and showing its 18 months in oak with firm tannins and generous sweet and spicy-cedar wood. Blended with about 10% of Cabernet Franc, opens to reveal blackberry and black cherry fruits, those complemented nicely by a hint of chocolate that lingers nicely on the medium-long finish. Drink from release-2009. Score 86-88. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Merlot, Traditional, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Made entirely from Merlot grapes blended from several vineyards. Dark garnet, medium-bodied with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing a judicious hand with spicy oak. On the nose and palate blueberries, currants and chocolate, those with a light herbal overlay. Smooth, soft and moderately long. Drink from release-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, La Petite Sira, 2004: Not a typographical error, the sira in question being a small boat, reflecting the family's love of sailing. In fact, a blend of 60% Petite Sirah and 40% Merlot, those aged in oak for 12 months. Super-dark garnet in color, medium-bodied, showing silky tannins and generous black fruit. A fun quaffing wine. Drink now. Score 85 K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Chardonnay, Traditional, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Light golden in color, reflecting its 12 months in new oak with generous spicy and vanilla-rich wood that dominates on the first attack but then opens to reveal appealing citrus, pineapple and tropical fruits. Drink from release. Score 85. K. (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Marina, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Made from Petite Sirah grapes from the 2004 harvest, those blended with some of the same wine from the 2003 vintage and given additional alcohol by adding grape juice of the 2005 vintage year. Bright garnet in color, medium-bodied, with super-soft tannins and generous but not cloying sweetness. Said to be in the style of Port but with its primarily cherry, raspberry and currant fruits perhaps better to think of this as a pleasant enough and easy to drink red dessert wine. Drink from release. Score 85. K (Tasted 12 Mar 2007)

 

Benhaim, Muscat, 2004: Treating wine made from Muscat grapes to oak is a fairly unusual practice but this one, had 12 months in large oak casks. Generous sweetness here but that nicely balanced by acidity and showing smoky, spicy aromas and flavors of peaches, apricots and mango. An appealing dessert wine. Drink now-2008. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 12 Mar 2007)