On Tuesday, 21 February, I devoted much of my day to a tasting at Binaymina wineries. After arriving fairly early in the morning I was treated to breakfast at the winery's visitors' center and I must say that the amount of food (quite tasty at that) placed on the table would have been more than enough for a battalion of hungry soldiers just back from a three day field exercise. No complaints though – for the food, the espresso coffee and the good company of winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon made a good start to the day.

More important - my tastings demonstrated that Binyamina, currently producing about 2.8 million bottles annually continues to earn its place as one of those wineries most definitely "on the way up". What may tend to confuse some, however, is what seems to be the increasing number of series released by the winery: Special Reserve, The Cave, Tiltan, Chushan, Yogev and the entry level Binyamina. My tasting notes follow. To make life a bit easier, I have listed the wines within the series to which they belong.

I also tasted two "twin wines", the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon in the Special Reserve series, twins because one bottle had been sealed with a traditional cork and the other with a screwcap. I am going to start a separate thread about that …..right now though, after a pleasant little lunch of humous, sours, hot sauce, mixed salad and cold beer it's time for a nap, so that will be only this evening.

Best
Rogov

Special Reserve

Binyamina Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, all showing medium- to full-body, firm but yielding tannins and generous red berry and cassis fruits, those on a background of Oriental spice and light herbaceousness. Best from 2007. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color with orange reflections, made from grapes harvested on the Golan Heights. Full-bodied, with generous blackcurrant and blackberry fruits backed up nicely by hints of tobacco and earthiness and a mouthfillingly long finish. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Still in embryonic form but already showing medium- to full-body and firm tannins, those opening to show a good array of ripe and spicy plum, cassis and berry fruits. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina Merlot, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with moderately firm, near-sweet tannins well balanced by currant, wild berry and cherry fruits. A bit acidic on the palate at this stage, so definitely meant for re-tasting. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Well done! Deep garnet in color, with still firm near-sweet tannins and generous spicy wood but those showing balance and harmony to reveal generous plum, wild berry and currant fruits. On the background hints of leather and chocolate. Best starting in 2007. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Special Reserve, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, reflecting its 14 months in oak with firm tannins and generous smoky wood and vanilla. Blended and developed together with 2% of Viognier grapes, medium- to full-bodied, with good balance and showing clean blueberry, blackberry and plum fruits along with hints of spices, smoked meat and earthiness. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tastings): Showing medium- to full-body, generous but not overdone acidity and appealing pineapple, peach and tropical fruit aromas and flavors. Blended with 30% of unoaked Chardonnay, the wine has a tempting hint of cream on the finish. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Aged sur lie in French barriques, with a lively golden color and crisply refreshing spicy pear and apple fruits, this medium to full-bodied white shows appealing nectarine and vanilla flavors on the moderately long finish. Drink now–2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Special Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Medium-bodied, light golden straw in color, this crisp and lively unoaked white shows appealing apple and pineapple aromas and flavors. Not complex but very pleasant. Drink from release. Score 87. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Viognier, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, light golden in color, with appealing aromas and flavors of citrus and apricot as well as hints of cinnamon and minerals, all with good balancing acidity and a warm earthy finish. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Viognier, Special Reserve, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Aged sur lie in 80% new barrels and 20% formerly used for Chardonnay, with gentle acidity that yields to buttery-mineral nuances and with lemon and apple aromas and flavors as well as a lightly earthy note on the finish.. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Chushan

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chushan, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with spicy, vanilla-rich wood and near-sweet tannins in good balance with blackcurrant, wild berries and minerals, all leading to a long and appealing spicy finish. Best stating in 2007. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chushan, Tarshish, 2003: Deep garnet towards purple, full-bodied, with mouthcoating tannins and tightly closed unless decanted several hours before drinking. Given time the wine will show harmony, and in addition to traditional blackcurrants, sweet berries and spices, generous mineral, toasty and vanilla notes. Best 2007-2011. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Syrah, Chushan, 2004 (Barrel Tasting): With 14 months in oak, now showing medium- to full-bodied, with soft, well integrated tannins and light herbal-earthy aromas and flavors complemented nicely by plum, berry and cassis fruits. As the wine develops look for hints of tobacco and chocolate on the finish. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Syrah, Chushan, Odem, 2003: Full-bodied, firm and concentrated, dark garnet in color, with firm and mouthcoating tannins opening in the glass to reveal near-sweet berry, plum, meaty and earthy aromas and flavors, all balanced nicely and with a long finish. Needs decanting if served at this stage. Best 2007-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Chushan, Sapir, 2003: A full-bodied and firmly tannic blend of 40% each of Cabernet and Shiraz and 20% of Merlot. Oak aged for 15 months, showing good balance between wood tannins and a tempting array of aromas and flavors, those including chocolate, tobacco, dusty-oak and minerals, all on a warm background of blackcurrants, blackberries and spices. Worth decanting at this stage. Best starting in 2007. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Chushan, Shoham, 2004: Developed for 16 months in oak, now aging more rapidly than originally predicted. Deep golden straw in color, with smoky oak on the ascendant but with appealing citrus, tropical and melon fruits. Drink now-2007. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc Fume, Chushan, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Light golden in color, medium-bodied, lively, vibrant and focused, reflecting cold fermentation in stainless steel tanks and then 6 months in oak with a gentle hints of spices and vanilla along with aromas and flavors of pears, melon, honeysuckle and fresh cut hay, all with a pleasing tart edge that lingers nicely on the finish. Drink now Score 88. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Chardonay-Viognier-Sauvignon Blanc, Chushan, Yishpa, 2004: Medium-bodied and crisply dry but losing its flush of youth, now a bit darker in golden color than it was, no less fruity (look for pears, apples and citrus) but with the once appealing hint of licorice now taking on an earthy-herbal nature. Enjoyable but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Yogev

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yogev, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and sur-ripe plum and berry fruits and generous alcohol that gives the wine a near-sweet finish. Drink from release-2007. Tetative Score 84-86. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Biyamina, Rose, Yogev, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 50% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, this light- to medium-bodied peach colored towards pale pink rose shows clean and refreshing berry, cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors. Simple but lovely. Drink from release. Score 85. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Yogev, 2005 (Advance Tasting): An light golden straw colored and aromatic unoaked blend, this year of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Medium bodied, with appealing pineapple, peach and apple aromas and flavors, a well-done quaffer. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Tiltan

Binyamina, Tiltan, n.v. (Advance Tasting) : I confess that I have yet to find the true logic behind producing a dry red wine that is blend between three vintage years, especially when one of those vintage years was particularly problematic. Whatever, this is the third release in this series and by far the best to date. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages, this medium- to full-bodied blend shows generous wood and tannins but those in good balance with spicy and lightly earthy black fruits. On the finish nice hints of herbs and vanilla add charm. Drink from release. Score 88. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

The Cave

The Cave, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2002: Developing nicely, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot was oak aged for 20 months. Now showing medium- to full-bodied, with solid tannins that open in the glass to reveal a generously fruity and elegant wine. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries and vanilla, those matched nicely by hints of Mediterranean herbs and leading to a moderately long and mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2008. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

The Cave, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components, those coming together to provide a full-bodied, now firmly tannic red with generous spicy oak, all crying for time to integrate and show their potential. Already showing potential elegance with blackcurrant, plum and blackberry aromas and flavors. Best from 2007. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied, with gentle smoky and spicy influences from the wood and with soft, nicely integrating tannins. Not overly complex but with appealing currant, black cherry and berry fruits backed up nicely by a hint of spiciness. Drink from release. Tentative Score 84-86. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Merlot, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Soft and round, medium-bodied, with silky tannins integrated nicely with gently spicy oak and berry-cherry aromas and flavors. Not complex but a good quaffer. Score 84. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Tempranillo, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): The best Tempranillo from Binyamina to date. Medium-bodied and supple, with soft tannins and a hint of spice from the oak along with black cherry, mineral and light earthy flavors and a hint of rhubarb on the finish. Drink from release-2008. Tentative Score 85-87. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Tempranillo, 2004: Ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied, with firm tannins and black cherry, grape, mineral and earthy aromas and flavors. A simple quaffing wine. Drink now. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, 2005: Not at all complex but fresh, fruity and appealing, with green apple, citrus and peach fruits set off nicely by good balancing acidity. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Emerald Riesling, 2005: Aromatic and floral, with flavors of citrus and summer fruits. Moderately but not offensively sweet. Drink now. Score 83. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)

Binyamina, Muscat, 2005: Floral, with hints of peppermint backing up its lemon and grapefruit personality. Moderately sweet but lacking the acidity that would have made it more lively. Drink now. Score 82. K (Tasted 21 Feb 2006)