On Wednesday (17 Jan 2007), my morning was devoted to barrel, advance and re-tastings of 25 of the wines of Binyamina. As has been the case in recent years, under the leadership of foward-thinking CEO Ilan Hassan, the winery, the fourth largest in the country with annual production of about 3 million bottles, has come a long way not only in the modernization of the winery but of gaining control over ever-improving vineyards and in the overall quality of their wines.

Visiting this particular winery on an annual basis offers a special pleasure for the critic, for one can easily see the ongoing improvement from vintage year to vintage year. My time was spent quite comfortably in the company of senior winemaker Sasson Ben-Aharon and winemaker Assaf Paz and I thank them, Ilan Hassan and the staff of the winery for their courtesies and an interesting tasting.

The winery releases wines in several series of interest: Special Reserve, Avnei HaChoshen, Yogev, Tiltan and wines and wines from what the winery considers it's boutique arm, The Cave. One change is being made. Wines that were until now produced in the winery's basic Binyamina series will undergo a name change and that series will now be known as Teva.

For those not fully familiar with Hebrew terminology, Avneh HaChoshen refers to the precious stones that adorned the chest-covering of the high priests during the days of the First and Second Temples; Tiltan is the name of a plant that has three distinct leaves on every branch (the logic being that these wines are blends of three different vintage years); Yogev is a man who works the soil, in this case a clear bow to the grape-growers; and Teva means nature or, less formally, personality, each wine in the series said to have its own nature.

My notes from the day's tastings follow.

Best
Rogov

The White Wines

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing partly in oak, partly in staniless steel, this bright golden, medium-bodied white shows appealing apricot and citrus aromas and flavors, those leading to an appealing buttery note on the long finish. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007).

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve 2005 (Advance Tasting): Light golden in color, medium- to full bodied, with fine balancing acidity and a hint of spices from the oak in which it aged. On the nose and palate citrus, peach and tropical fruits matched by an appealing hint of cream on the finish. Drink from release-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Special Reserve 2004: Lively golden in color with a hint of bronze creeping in, a medium- to full-bodied peaches and cream wine, showing spicy pear and apple fruits and hints of vanilla. Drinking nicely but not meant for further cellaring. Drink now. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Teva, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light golden straw in color, unoaked, purposely not having undergone malolactic fermentation and thus as crisp, lively and refreshing as one could want, with grapefruit, nectarine and a flinty dryness that cannot help but call to mind a Petit Chablis. Lovely and at the scheduled release price of about NIS 25 one of the best buys on the market today. Scheduled for release in February so keep an eye out for this one. Drink from release and for the next year or so. A damned good quaffer. Score 86. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Special Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light straw in color, medium-bodied, this unoaked white shows bright and lively aromas and flavors that shift nicely on the palate, at one moment orange blossoms and nectarines, at another a hint of gooseberries, and at yet another green apples and light grassy hints rising. Drink from release or in the next year or so. Score 88. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Leshem, HaChosen, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Light golden straw in color, medium-bodied, with citrus, sweet pea, herbal and grassy aromas and flavors that come together as a lively and appealing whole and finish with a light creamy sensation. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Viognier, Special Reserve, 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: Medium-bodied, light golden in color, with appealing aromas and flavors of citrus and apricot as well as hints of cinnamon and minerals, all with good balancing acidity and a warm earthy finish. Drink now–2008. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Viognier, Special Reserve, 2002: The first Viognier wine released in Israel. Unoaked and not fully reflecting the characteristics of the grape during its youth but now showing somewhat darker in color and with appealing citrus blossoms, orange and lemon notes as well as hints of fresh earth, those turning to ripe pears on the finish. Not re-born but clearly singing it's swan's song so drink up. Score 85. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Special Reserve, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Lively golden straw in color, medium-bodied, this off-dry and aromatic white opens with, litchis and a hint of spiciness and then goes on to a lemon almond and dried apricot character. Reminds one of the Gewurztraminer wines from Alto Adige. Drink from release. Score 86. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Special Reserve, 2005: As during its youth, a pleasantly aromatic wine with grassy, pear and apple aromas and flavors but lacking any of the spicy or litchi notes that would give this a Gewurztraminer personality. Drink up. Score 84. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Muscat of Alexandria, Teva, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Light- to medium-bodied, this semi-dry white shows generous floral aromas, opening on the palate to reveal fig and apricot flavors. Faulted because it lacks the acidity that would have kept it lively. A wine for people who like wines like this. Drink from release. Score 84. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

The Red Wines

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Showing better than at an early barrel tasting (about 1 year ago). Full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely with spicy and lightly smoky wood, those yielding nicely to generous red berries, cassis and spices. Concentrated and intense but on its way to elegance. Best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Special Reserve, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and reflecting a generous but well-balanced wood influence from its 18 months in oak. On the nose and palate currant and blackberry fruits supported nicely by generous hints of Mediterranean herbs and, on the medium-long finish, a note of tobacco. Drink now-2008. Score 87. K

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvigon, Teva, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Dark cherry red towards garnet, medium-bodied, with light hints of spicy oak and an appealing cherry, blackberry personality. On the short but generously fruity finish an appealing hint of tobacco. Drink from release-2008. Score 85. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Developing nicely in the barrel and now showing dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its aging in French oak barrels with hints of spicy wood and generous near-sweet tannins. On the nose and palate raspberry, strawberry and vanilla, those supported nicely by herbal and spicy notes. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Merlot, Special Reserve, 2004: With its youthful acidity now integrated, this garnet-red medium- to full-bodied wine now shows near-sweet tannins and spicy oak in good balance with wild berry plum and currant notes. Drink now-2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Special Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing even better than at a barrel tasting a year ago. Dark garnet in color, with once firm tannins now settling down nicely and showing a gentle hand with spicy oak. Fine balance between those and plum, black cherry and cassis and, on the background, appealing hints of lather and chocolate all leading to a long, mouth-filling finish.. Drink from release-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Syrah, Hachoshen, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, dense and concentrated, but showing fine balance and structure. Firm tannins need time to integrate with spicy wood and to show the black and red berries, cheriesand licorice flavors that are here, lingering comfortably and showing a long fruity finish. Potentially the best wineto date from Binyamina. Best 2009-2013. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Syrah, Hachoshen, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 2 – 3% of Viognier as is the rule with this wine for Binyamina, medium- to full-bodied and softly tannic wine shows smooth, and ripe, bright and lively. True to the Syrah traits, with berry, cherry and plum aromas and flavors all of which linger nicely on a well balanced finish. Best starting in 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Syrah, Hachoshen, 2004 (Advance Tasting): My earlier tasting note holds firmly: With 15 months in oak, showing medium to full-bodied, with soft, well integrated tannins and light herbal-earthy aromas and flavors complemented nicely by plum, berry and cassis fruits. Hints of tobacco and chocolate on the finish. Drink now–2008. Score 87. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Tiltan, n.v.: This wine, the fourth release in the series and definitely to best to date. Made from grapes harvest in the 2003, 2004 and 2005 harvest, each developed in woo for a different period of time. Full-bodied, with soft, caressing tannins and a moderate hand with peppery wood, the wine opens on the palate to reveal currants, black cherries and herbal aromas and flavors, all of which are concentrated but never heavy or clumsy. Finishes with generous tannins and an appealing hint of sage. Best 2008-2012. Score 90. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, The Cave, 2003: Dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins and generous spicy oak but those integrating nicely, the wine showing fine balance and opening on the nose and palate to reveal currant, blackberry and plum fruits, those supported nicely by hints of tobacco and Meditrranean herbs. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Yogev, 2005: My most recent tasting note holds firmly: A medium-bodied blend of 50% each of Cabernet and Merlot, aged in oak for 8 months. Generous currant, raspberry, red plum and cedar aromas and flavors, a smooth textured appealing wine with a moderately long lightly herbal finish. Drink now-2008. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2007)

Binyamina Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Yogev, 2005: Medium-bodied, with light spicy oak and bright cherry as well as red and black berry aromas and flavors that linger nicely. Ripe and open and, on the moderately long finish appealing hints of licorice. Drink now-2009. Score 88. (Tasted17 Jan 2007)

Dessert Wine

Binyamina, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Special Reserve, n.v.: Declared a non-vintage wine even though the grapes all came from the 2005 harvest, this light golden, medium-bodied, dessert wine shows generous sweetness balanced nicely by acidity. On the nose and palate good Gewurztraminer spiciness and litchis together with hints of dried apricots. Finishes with a tempting peppery-smoothness. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Tasted 17 Jan 2007)