On Thursday 27 March, I visited the Binyamina winery, there with winemakers Sasson Ben-Aharon and Assaf Paz first to see some of the new equipment that has come aboard, to visit what seems to be an ever expanding barrel room (now with almost 30% more barrels than on my previous visit about a year ago), and then to an extensive set of tastings.

With far better control over their vineyards than in the past, with increasingly modern equipment now in the winery, and with two talented winemakers aboard, it is clear that the winery is making quality steps forward on an annual basis not only in their top-of-the line series, Avnei HaChoshen and Reserve but also in their mid-priced Yogev series and their entry-level series Teva. What has surprised me somewhat is that even though the wines are receiving warm reception abroad (about 25% of the winery's output of about 2.4 million bottles annually) the winery has yet to shatter the glass ceiling that will allow greater acceptance, especially of the two top series, among more sophisticated wine drinkers in Israel.

My thanks to both Sasson and Assaf for an interesting tasting, their courtesies, their good company and two good cups of fine espresso coffee.

For those not in the know (that is to say, who do not speak Hebrew: Avnei Hachoshen refers to the precious stones that adorned the vest of the high priest in the days of the Temple; Yogev is the Biblical term for a farmer, in this case a clear bow to the grape-growers; and Teva means nature.

Note: Those wines in the Avnei HaChoshen series noted with prices are just now making their way to the market.

Best
Rogov

Avnei HaChoshen

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Avnei HaChoshen, Leshem (Opal), 2006: Reflecting its six months in oak with a gentle overlay of spices, this medium-bodied white shows generous citrus and peach notes along with appealing mineral crispness and hints of freshly cut grass and mint. Drink now-2009. NIS 95. Score 87. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Avnei HaChoshen, Yashfeh (Jasper), 2006: A gently oaked, medium-bodied blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier (40%, 35% and 25% respectively). Golden straw in color and aromatic, a crisply dry blend of pineapple, citrus and white peaches on a lightly spicy background. Drink now-2009. NIS 95. Score 88. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Avnei HaChoshen, Yashfeh (Jasper), 2007 (Advance Tasting): Golden straw in color, floral on the nose but crisply dry and with fine balancing acidity. Shows peach, apricot and melon fruits leading to a long, refreshing finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 88. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Avnei HaChoshen, Shoham (Onyx) 2005: Deep golden straw in color, reflecting its 16 months in new oak with full-bodied and generous cedar wood and near-creamy texture. Good balance between those and appealing citrus, tropical fruits and a light hint of mint that comes in on the finish. Drink now-2009. NIS 95. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Avnei HaChoshen, Sapir (Sapphire), 2005: As it was last year, a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Shiraz and 25% Merlot. Oak aged for 15 months, showing dark ruby towards garnet, opening with licorice and mint on the nose and palate, those going to bitter-sweet chocolate and Mediterranean herbs and then to red plums, cassis and spicy notes. Drink now-2010.NIS 145. Score 89. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Syrah, Avnei HaChoshen, Odem (Ruby), 2005: Blended with 2-3% of Viognier, intensely darkgarnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generous near-sweet tannins and smoky oak integrating nicely. Shows red berries, cherries and red plums along with hints of leather and meatiness. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. NIS 145. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Syrah, Avnei HaChosen, Odem (Ruby), 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, soft, round and juicy, with a generous array of blueberries, blackberries, purple plums and a mélange of herbal and spcy notes that lead to a long finish. Best from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90.. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avnei HaChoshen, Tarshish (Aquamarine), 2005: Dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, and aged in new French oak for 16 months. Opens with super-soft tannins, those firming as the wine develops in the glass, medium-bodied, with appealing currant and red plums on the nose and palate, those backed up by a hint of sweet herbs on the moderately long finish. Drink now-2011. NIS 145. Score 89. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avnei HaChoshen, Tarshish (Aquamarine) 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied with still firm tannins waiting to integrate but already showing appealing cassis and blackberry fruits, those complemented by hints of minted chocolate. Best 2010-2013. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Reserve

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc, Reserve, 2007: Light gold, medium- to full-bodied, with gentle oak influences and showing citrus, pear and tropical fruits with an appealing hint of bitterness that comes in on the medium-long finish. Drink now-2009. Score 87. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2006: Developed partly in oak for 10 months, partly in stainless steel, this bright golden, medium-bodied white shows appealing apricot and citrus aromas and flavors, those leading to an appealing buttery note on the long finish. Drink now -2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Shiraz, Reserve 2005: This dark garnet wine’s once firm tannins are now settling down nicely and showing a gentle hand with spicy oak. Fine balance between those and plum, black cherry and cassis and, on the background, appealing hints of leather, chocolate and minerals all leading to a long, mouth-filling finish. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Zinfandel, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): The winery's first release of a varietal Zinfandel and quite a success. Opens with California muscles but those settle down in the glass to reveal wild berry, cherry, raspberry as well as peppery and licorice notes. Powerful but ripe tannins and a long finish. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 88-90.K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Yogev

Binyamina, Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay, Yogev, 2007: Unoaked, light- to medium-bodied, with crisply clean aromas and flavors of citrus, pineapple, tropical fruits and a near-sweet finish. Not complex but appealing. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Rose, Yogev, 2007: Rose petal pink with a hint of adobe, a blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Light- to medium-bodied, with generous strawberry and raspberry fruits, a light, easy to drink quaffer. Drink now. Score 85. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Teva

Binyamina, Pinotage, Teva, 2007: (Barrel Tasting) Medium-bodied, dark and youthful royal purple in color at this stage and showing a generous core of blackberry, wild berry and cherry fruits, those on a background of firm but ripe tannins. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Tempranillo, Teva, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark royal purple, with near-sweet tannins, a soft, round red with aromas and flavors of blackberries, vanilla, toast and minerals. A thoroughly modern Tempranilo showing balance and complexity. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Cabernet Blush, Teva, 2007: Semi-sweet, bright pink in color with generous red fruits. A bit more balancing acidity would have helped. Drink now. Score 82. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Binyamina, Muscato, Teva, 2007: Far, far better than the 2006 edition, this light, sweet, pleasantly frizante wine shows appealing floral, citrus and citrus peel notes with just enough acidity to keep it lively. Meant for youthful drinking. Score 85. K (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)

Miscellaneous

Binyamina, Petite Verdot, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Made from Negev Desert vines. Medium- to full-bodied, an unusual, almost unique wine Intense aromas and flavors of stony minerals, pomegranate and cassis fruits, those supported by a fascinating array of dill, anise and licorice. From a variety that is rarely bottled on its own and lacking a bit of backbone, almost surely to be used as a blending agent. (Tasted 27 Mar 2008)