Rogov's Tastes » Bustan

As there are near ego-maniacs in the wine field, so are there gentle souls who almost strive to avoid publicity. Ya'akov Fogler, who founded Bustan Winery in 1994 is one of those gentle souls. More important, his wines have consistently been excellent and interesting and with only two exceptions since his first release, have earned scores of 90 or above.

Fogler's small winery, situated on Moshav Sharai Tikva in the Shomron area, draws Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes from the Jerusalem and Judean Mountains, and produces about 2,000 bottles annually. The winery has earned a good name for its distinctly French-style wines, which have had a formal kashrut certificate since 1999. The winery has just released three new wines. Following are my tasting notes.

Best
Rogov

Bustan, Syrah, 2005: Wow! Full-bodied, with super-soft tannins and opening with a burst of sweet and savory tannins, those parting in the glass to reveal layer after layer of blackberry, plum and citrus peel notes, those complemented by notes of black tea, white pepper and, on the long finish a hint of peppermint. Concentrated, intense, well focused, supple and harmonious with a super-long finish. Perhaps Bustan's very best to date. Drink now-2013. Score 92. K (Tasted 22 and 26 Apr 2008)

Bustan, Merlot 2004: Aged in barriques for 22 months, dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color but despite that casting purple and orange reflections. Full-bodied, with big but velvety smooth tannins and showing a tempting array of blackberries, spices, dark chocolate, green olives and a light note of grilled meat. Luscious and long. Best 2009-2012. Score 92. K(Tasted twice with consistent notes 22 and 26 Apr 2008)

Bustan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Showing even better than at an advance tasting. Dark, almost impenetrable royal purple in color, full-bodied and powerful, with soft, mouth-coating tannins along with aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, blackberries, plums and spices, all with notes of chocolate, minerals and spicy cedar wood. Long and generous. Best 2009-2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 22 Apr 2008)