The morning and early afternoon (Tuesday, 12 Nov 2006) were devoted to a tasting at the Carmel winery. The tasting took place at the Rishon leTzion winery in the company of chief winemaker Lior Laxer and Sam Soroka who is the winemaker based at Zichron Ya'akov and is responsible for Carmel's upper-level wines, and Adam Montifiore. The day was devoted to tasting and in some cases retastings of those upper-level wines.

The wines will speak for themselves through my tasting notes. Also picked up, and no less important, is that wherever Carmel may be going with its mass-market wines, those of us who have come to appreciate the turnaround of Carmel into a winery well capable of producing excellence, have no need to fear, for all signs are in place that talented winemakers are doing a truly excellent job, selecting grapes with care, not being afraid not to release a single vineyard wine in a year which they judge the grapes from that vineyard not to be up to their standard, and continuing to show an attitude of excitement and creativity towards their wines.

On the off-chance that anyone is wondering (remembering what happened a year ago), I was not picked up in a stretch limousine and a French chef was not flown from Paris to prepare my lunch. In fact lunch was a rather pleasant 250 gram hamburger with fried onions, chips and a cold draft beer.

For those who may not be familiar with the vineyards mentioned in the tasting notes, Zarit, Ben Zimra and Kayoumi are located in the Upper Galilee and Sha'al is on the Golan Heights.

Best
Rogov

Carmel, Johannisberg Riesling, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Not so much a literal barrel tasting as this was from the stainless steel tanks in which the wine is developing. Bright and juicy, more off-dry than sweet and with tangy acidity highlighting green apple, grapefruit and mineral aromas and flavors. Good concentration in a medium-bodied wine that seems to float gently on the palate. Best from release. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Chardonnay, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): With 75% of this wine developing in stainless steel and 25% in 300 liter Burgundy oak, showing an aromatic Chablis-like personality, with minerals and light spices backing up hazelnut and pear, fig and citrus. On the long finish a hint of toasted brioche. Best from release-2009. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Carignan,. Zichron Ya'akov, Appelation, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark but sparkling purple in color, deeply aromatic, with 10% of Petit Verdot blended in to add backbone, made from old vine grapes. Firm tannins and generous toasty wood at this point but with fine balance and structure and simply needing time for the elements to integrate. On the nose and palate purple plums, blackberries, hints of pepper and near-sweet cocoa, all leading to a generous and long finish. Best from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91.. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Merlot, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Made from old vine Merlot blended with 7-10% of Cabernet Franc. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely and showing tempting aromas and flavors of ripe berries, plums, chocolate and licorice. Rich, round and delicious. Best 2008-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): A blend of about 70% Cabernet and 30% Shiraz, this medium- to full-bodied, lithely tannic wine is anything but a blockbuster, but how it fills the palate beautifully! On first attack light earthy-meaty aromas and flavors, those yielding to blackberries, currants and black cherries and finally, on the long finish returning to appealing earthy overtones. Approachable from release but will deepen with age. Best 2008-2011, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Appelation, Upper Galilee, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 7% of Cabernet Franc, this firm and concentrated red shows bright, juicy currant and raspberry fruits, those with overlays of near-sweet cedar wood, sage and on the finish a hint of licorice. Don't be surprised if you mistake this for a Washington State Cabernet. Best 2008-2011, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Petite Sirah, Appelation, Judean Hills, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): If ever Petite Sirah had a bad name within Israel it was the fault of Carmel but these days they are going a long way in overcoming that once negative image. Made from 35 year old vines at Givat Yishayahu, this almost impenetrably dark purple wine and still firmly tannic wine opens in the glass to show a rich array of dark plum, wild berry, peppery, herbal and spicy cedar notes. Dense enough to be thought of as almost chewable but opening to show its harmony and grace. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

A side note, to the above tasting note: As I was tasting I could not help but compare this mentally to the 2005 Petite Sirah of Vitkin Winery. One day I will taste these two side by side. The interesting question despite stylistic touches reflecting the touch of different winemakers will be in comparing the impact of terroir on these wines.

Carmel, Merlot, Single Vineyard, Ben Zimra, 2004: Garnet towards royal purple in color, ripe, round and polished, and showing fine balance and focus to highlight its dark plum, blueberry and dusky spice flavors. Finishes with hints of oak and red bell peppers. Long and generous. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K. (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Shiraz, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. Full-bodied, intense and concentrated, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing layer after layer of spicy oak, smoked meat and tar, those highlighting red berries, black cherries and licorice. Best 2008-2015. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvigon, Single Vineyard, Zarit, 2004: Deep garnet towards royal purple, reflecting its 15 months in oak with judicious oak, solid tannins that are integrating nicely and finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Opens with currants and dusty oak, those going to spices and blackberries, and from first sip to last hints of vanilla, freshly cut tobacco leaves and a hint of mint Long and generous. Drinking nicely now but best 2008-2011. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Single Vineyard, Kayoumi, 2004 (Advance Tasting): What a difference a vineyard makes, not necessarily in quality but in style (thinking of the Zarit in the tasting note above and this wine). Aged in oak for 15 months, dark, almost impenetrable purple in color, with generous firm tannins and smoky wood both needing time to come together with currant, blackberry, plum and mineral aromas and flavors, those showing hints of Mediterranean herbs and light Oriental spices. Long and generous. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Limited Edition, 2004 (Advance Tasting): A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvigon, 20% Petit Verdot and 15% Merlot, already showing soft tannins and generous but gentle wood, those in fine balance with currant, blackberry and black cherry fruits, all melding together in gentle ways with light hints of pepper, anise and cigar box aromas and flavors. Round and caressing, elegant and long. Approachable on release but best 2009-2013, perhaps longer. Score 93. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Single Vineyard, Sha'al, 2005: As at past tastings, continuing to show medium- to full-bodied, generous sweetness and fine balancing acidity along with traditional Gewurztraminer litchis and spiciness, those matched by peach and nectarine fruits and, on the long finish hints of rosewater and honey. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel, Gewurztraminer, Late Harvest, Single Vineyard, Sha'al, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Moderately sweet with rose petal and orange peel overtones to honeyed pear, apricot and litchi fruits. Succulent and with a long-lingering finish. Drink from release-2010. Score 90. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)

Carmel Vintage, Fortified Petite Sirah, Judean Hills, 2004 (Advance Tasting): I won't refer to this grape alcohol reinforced red wine as a "Port-style wine" but I will make the comparison, for with its Tawny Port-style chocolate, raisins and spice box aromas that is precisely what it calls to mind. Rich and opening to reveal coffee and a hint of bitter almonds to balance the sweetness. Drink from release. Score 89. K (Tasted 12 Nov 2006)