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>> Rogov's Tastes » Carmel - October 2005


Carmel
has just released two new wines in their Single Vineyard Series, both from the 2003 vineyard and both made from grapes entirely from the Kayoumi Vineyard in the Upper Galilee. Both wines were made by Canadian born, Adelaide trained winemaker Sam Soroka who is now well on his way to demonstrating his talents.

ROGOV

Carmel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kerem Kayoumi, Single Vineyard, 2003: Lucious and elegant, this deep garnet, full-bodied and softly tannic wine shows fine structure and balance. Reflecting its development in oak for 17 months with overlays of spices and smoke and, on the nose and palate a generous array of blackcurrants, blackberries and plums on first attack, these yielding nicely to hints of Oriental spices, chocolate and tobacco. Approachable now but best from 2007-2012 or longer. NIS 105. Score 92. K. (Tasted 25 Oct 2005)

Carmel, Shiraz, Kerem Kayoumi, Single Vineyard, 2003: Aged in small oak barrels for 13 months, this wine has been promising from its infancy but is showing even better now than during barrel and advance tastings. Firm and well-structured and with balance that bodes well for a soft, caressing and elegant future. Generous soft tannins here to show off a tempting array of currant, plum, blackberry and anise flavors and aromas, all of which culminate in a long, mouthfilling finish. Approachable now but best from 2008-2012. NIS 105. Score 91. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 24 and 25 Oct 2005)

On the far lighter side of life, Carmel has also just released its 2005 red and white Hiluleem wines. Since their first release in 1983 these have traditionally among the first Israeli wines to appear after the harvest. Not meant to be taken at all seriously, these are meant to be simple, fun wines for quaffing in large gulps much as might be Nouveau Beaujolais or Vinho Verde. One major change however – for as in past years where Carmel released these wines in huge quantities, this year's releases are relatively limited – and that a positive step for the winery has finally acknowledged that these are not wines truly to be sold and consumed very early on and not to be kept on the shelves (as has happened in the past) for a year or even more. Following are my tasting notes for both wines.

Carmel, Hiluleem Red, 2005: As light in body as it is in tannins, this super-young blend of Merlot, Carignan and Petite Sirah is about as simple as you can get, but shows pleasant cherry, berry and violet flavors, all on a slightly tart edge. Best served well chilled. Drink up. NIS 22. Score 83. (Tasted 23 Oct 2005)

Carmel, Hiluleem White, 2005: A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay, so light and acidic that you might even think you were drinking a glass of lightly alcoholic orange and grapefruit juice. Not to be taken seriously but fun if you're in the mood. Drink up. NIS 22. Score 81. (Tasted 23 Oct 2005)