From the moment that Chateau Golan released its first wines, those from the 2000 vintage, a great many people have chuckled not-so-quietly at the winery's choice to label their wines somewhat pompously as Royal Reserve, at the perhaps questionable taste of the poem on the rear labels of their wines and at the shape of the bottles which are difficult to stack in wine refrigerators. Even more people have commented that at prices of up to NIS 165 per bottle on release, these wines are simply beyond the means of many wine lovers.

The fact, however is that despite the chuckling and the complaints, the winery is managing very nicely to sell all of their wines. Perhaps even more important, winemaker Uri Hetz has managed within just a few short years to turn this into one of most up-and-coming wineries in the country, the wines often attaining high levels of excellence. Following are reviews of five recently released wines. No one will call the wines "good value for money" but calling them excellent is most definitely in order.

Best
Rogov

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2003: Aged in oak for 12 months, this deep garnet towards royal purple medium- to full-bodied blend of Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (86%, 13% and 1% respectively) shows fine balance between generous tannins, spicy wood and currant, berry fruits, those backed up nicely by hints of herbaceousness and, on the long finish hints of licorice and green olives. Concentrated well focused. Approachable now but best from 2007-2010. NIS 140. Score 90. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2006)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2003: A oak-aged blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% of Cabernet Franc, still young and tight but with excellent focus and concentration. Full-bodied with still firm tannins waiting to settle down and already showing tempting aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, black cherries and anise, those matched nicely by hints of herbaceousness on the generous finish. Best 2007-2012. NIS 130. Score 90. (Re-tasted 14 Jan 2006)

Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, Limited Edition, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Blended with 15% of Grenache to flush out the elegance of the wine, this is a classic Syrah with distinct Mediterranean overtones. Combining assertiveness with complexity, this spicy, gamy wine offers up appealing smoke and black pepper along with deep raspberry and floral aromas and flavors. Drink now–2009. NIS 165. Score 90. (Re-tasted 17 Jan 2006)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Franc, Royal Reserve, Limited Edition, 2003: Showing even better than at an earlier tasting. Full-bodied, earthy and aromatic with an appealing array of currant, plum and wild berry fruits, those backed up nicely by vanilla and spices from the oak as well as an appealing hint of earthiness that appears on the moderately long finish. Rich and concentrated. Drink now-2010. NIS165. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 20 Jan 2006)

Chateau Golan, Eliad, Royal Reserve, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: A barrel-aged,deep garnet blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Rich, intense and complex, with concentrated fruits and spices on the noise and palate. Look for layers of plums, blackberries, currants and spicy oak. Needs time to show its elegance. Best 2007–2012. NIS 152. Score 91. (Re-tasted 20 Jan 2006)

Note: Prices are in Israeli Shekels and the exchange rate today is approximately US$1.00 = NIS 4.6

February 2006