Tuesday, 25 January 2005, found me at Chateau Golan for extended tastings with winemaker Uri Hetz. In addition to early 2004 barrel tastings, I also did advance and re-tastings, among the most fascinating of which were those wines that Hetz allowed to undergo spontaneous fermentation relying on wild yeasts..

Considering that the subject of coffee served at wineries has come up before and quite a few continue to IM me about that, let me comment that this was an excellent tasting, the company and the discussion was most rewarding and many of the wines I tasted were excellent but the coffee, for lack of a better term "lacked charm". It's okay. Considering all of the rest, I forgive them!

Best,
Rogov

Royal Reserve, Merlot 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, medium- to full-bodied, with generous but yielding tannins and tempting layers of plum, currant and black cherry fruits matched nicely by a light hint of herbaceousness. Rich and long. Best 2006-2010.Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 25 January 2005)

Eliad, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): A barrel-aged,deep garnet blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc. Rich, intense and complex, with concentrated fruits and spices on the noise and palate. Look for layers of plums, blackberries, currants and spicy oak. Needs time to show its elegance. Best 2007-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 25 January 2005)

Royal Reserve, Cabernet Franc, 2003 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, earthy and aromatic, with an appealing array of currant, vanilla and herbal flavors that fold together well. A long, deep finish showing richness and concentration. Best 2006-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 25 January 2005)

Royal Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Deep and tannic, still young and tight but showing excellent focus and concentration. Full bodied, packed with tannins waiting to integrate but with the inherent balance to develop beautifully, the tannins integrating with time to reveal a smooth and supple wine with aromas and flavors of currant, black cherries, anise, attractive earthy- herbal overtones and hints of green olives. Tentative Score 91 – 93. Best 2006-2012. (Re-tasted 25 January 2005)

Royal Reserve, Syrah, 2003 (Advance Tasting): Blended with 15% of Grenache to flush out the elegance of the wine, this remains as it did during barrel tastings a year earlier a classic Syrah with distinct Mediterranean overtones. Combining assertiveness with complexity, this spicy, gamy wine offers up appealing smoke and black pepper along with deep raspberry and floral aromas and flavors. Tentative Score 89 – 91. (Re-tasted 25 January 2005)

Royal Reserve, Cabernet Franc, Rose, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Somewhere in color between bright cherry red and that of red rose petals, far deeper than one might think at first glance, this medium-bodied, soft and round rose shows very appealing aromas and flavors of raspberries, cassis and cranberries, turning almost sweet on the surprisingly long finish. Meant for youthful drinking, that is to say from release and then for another year. Score 87. (Tasted 25 January 2005)

2004 Barrel Tastings

It is very early days for these wines, but not so early that one cannot form some firm impressions, the most important of those being that winemaker Uri Hetz continues to develop a series of often fascinating signature wines.

Sauvignon Blanc, 2004: Several samples, one developing in three year old barrels, showing citrus, melon, pear and grapefruit flavors; another in newer barrels reflecting figs, bees' wax and light herbaceousness; and yet another, having been allowed to ferment spontaneously, now in larger barrels showing greater roundness and (in the most positive sense) a truly savage nature. All with promise but the last demonstrating that J.J. Rousseau might have been right after all – there truly can be a "noble savage"

Syrah, 2004: Allowed to undergo spontaneous fermentation and relying entirely on wild yeasts, this dark, tannic and remarkably bright wine opens at first with an almost passionate raspberry sensation, that yields to reveal a medium-bodied somewhat rugged, lightly peppery and chewy wine that will call to mind the wines of St. Joseph in the Rhone Valley.

Grenache, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with moderate levels of soft tannins on a background of syrupy plum, cassis and wild berry flavors. Probably to be blended with the Syrah.

Petite Verdot, 2004: Dark purple, with orange and violet reflections, deeply tannic, with earthy, tobacco overtones opening to reveal tempting black fruits.

Merlot, 2004: Deep garnet, dark, full bodied and firmly tannic. Anything but a wine that would be thought of as "feminine" and with enormous potential.

Cabernet Franc, 2004: Deep royal purple in color, with generous black fruits and already showing hints of lead pencil, herbal and black fruits.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark purple towards black, with cassis, wild berry fruits and already showing good balance between tannins, wood and ripe fruits. Potentially excellent.

While at the winery I also re-tasted the Eliad, Syrah and Merlot wines of the 2002 vintage. Simply forgot to post those above as my tasting notes for all three hold firmly from an earlier tasting. Following are those tasting notes:

Royal Reserve, Merlot, 2002: This deep royal-purple oak-aged blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon shows firm, well-integrated tannins and appealing currant, wild berry and plum aromas and flavors, together with gentle overlays of spicy chocolate and vanilla. Drink now–2006. Score 88. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2005)

Royal Reserve, Syrah, 2002: Big, rich, dense and tannic, and already showing roundness and richness, this wine is a deep garnet to purple color and has generous plum, herbal and earthy aromas and flavors. Somewhat astringent in its youth but integrating very nicely now. Best 2005–2008. Score 90. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2005)

Eliad, 2002: Still young and tight, this blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot has crisp tannins and generous currant, black cherry and cedar as well as leathery-earthy aromas and flavors, with a long finish in which the tannins and wood meld beautifully. Best 2005–2010. Score 92. (Re-tasted 25 Jan 2005