On Tuesday morning (11 March 2008), I made my way to the industrial area of Yahud, there to do tastings, re-tastings and barrel tastings at the winery of Orna Chillag.
Rogov

After studying oenology in Piacenza, Italy, and working at the Antinori wineries in Tuscany, Orna Chillag released her first wines in Israel in 1998. For several years she used the facilities of the Saslove winery but now located in a still sparkling new facility in the industrial area of the town of Yahud, on the central plain, the winery relies on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Upper Galilee and the Judean Mountains and recently planted its own Syrah, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Production has grown from 4,000 bottles in 2002 to about 15,000 annually in 2007 and 2008.

In addition to regular releases in two series, Primo Riserva and Giovane (pronounce that JoVahNee), and a first rosé wine from the 2006 vintage, Chillag also produced a line of kosher wines under the label Orna, of which 15,000 bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon were released in the United States from the 2003, 2004 and 2005 vintages.

In retrospective, Orna has received positive reviews from me since she fist started but in recent years her wines have shown even better and the winery has developed its own signature – one that reflects Israeli soil and climatic conditions but that at the same time reveals her deep feelings for the micro-world of Tuscany. Following are my tasting notes. Those wines noted with prices are currently on the market.

Chillag, Merlot, Giovane, 2005: A blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 10 months in French barriques and now showing even better than at an earlier tasting. Giovane, Merlot, 2005: As deep in its rich garnet-red color as it is in tannins, and reflecting the oak casks in which it is developing with a gentle hand, this medium to full-bodied wine shows berry, black cherry and currant fruits, those matched with gentle hints of bitter herbs and, on the long finish, a hint of peppermint. Drink now-2011. NIS 75. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Giovane, 2005: Blended with 10% Merlot, showing a distinct Tuscan flair, this deep garnet, round and medium to full-bodied wine shows soft tannins and a tempting array of black cherries, raspberries and cassis all on a warmly spicy background. Long and generous. Drink now–2010. NIS 75. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primo Riserva, 2003: Aged in French oak for 18 months, this full-bodied red with its youthful tannins now nicely tamed, shows appealing and forward aromas and flavors of black currants, purple plums and ripe berry fruits, those matched nicely by spicy oak and, on the long finish, tantalizing hints of freshly turned earth and mushrooms. Needs a bit of time to let the tannins settle in. Drink now–2011. NIS 110. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauignon, Primo Riserva, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark, almost inky-garnet in color with once firm tannns now settling in nicely and reflecting its 18 months in French barriques with light overtones of smoky cedar wood. Rich blackberry, cherry and licorice flavors with overlays of spicy oak and licorice. Long and elegant. Drink from release-2011. Score 90. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Merlot, Primo Riserva, 2004: Medium to full-bodied, with now soft, round tannins, minerals and gentle toasty oak reflecting the 21 moths the wine spent in barriques. Comes together to show appealing blueberries, blackberries and mineral aromas and flavors that linger comfortably. Give this one 15 minutes in the glass to open both its aromas and flavors. Drink now–2010. NIS 110. Score 89. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Merlot, Primo Riserva, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Supple and round but with fine structure, Chillag's best to date. Blended with 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 22 months in French barriques, showing dark garnet in color. Full-bodied with tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood, fresh acidity and generous fruits. On the nose and palate black cherries, plums, toasty oak and roasted coffee, finishing with plum and lead-pencil notes. Best 2009-2012. Score 92. (Tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, Primo Riserva, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. Blended with 10% Merlot, reflecting its 22 months in French oak with generous but judicious spicy wood in fine balance with soft tannins and opning to show a tempting array of blackberries, currants and oriental spices, all leading to a rich, long and blueberry-laden finish. Best 2009-2012, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Re-tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon-Petite Sirah, 2005 (Advance Tasting): A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. Oak aged for 20 months showing medium- to full-bodied and with still firm near-sweet tannins, those just starting to settle down and opening to reveal generous black fruits, those on a light background that hints nicely of licorice and bitter almonds. Easy to drink but with just enough complexity to grab and hold our interest. Drink from release-2010. Score 90. (Tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Merlot, Giovane, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend this year of 86% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Petite Sirah. Developed for 10 months in French barriques showing medium- to full-bodied with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins and opening to reveal plum and blackberry fruits those highlighted by notes of sweet toast, vanilla and minerals. Drink from relese-2010. Score 89. (Tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Petite Sirah, Giovane, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep, dark and rich, full-bodied, with firm country-style tannins and showing beautiful huckleberry, blackberry, lack cherry notes on a background of vanilla, minerals and chocolate covered cherry notes. Long and generous. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 11 Mar 2008)

Chillag, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Barrel Tasting) Tasted as a component and not yet destined for a specific series. Showing dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and at this embryonic stage showing a gentle hint of spicy French oak. Opens to reveal traditional Cabernet aromas and flavors of blackcurrants and blackberries, those matched nicely by hints of tobacco and chocolate. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 11 Mar 2008)