It has often been said that if the mountain won't come to Mohammed, Mohammed must go to the mountain". I'm not quite sure just who is Mohammed and who the mountain in this case, but on Monday, 26 February, the Dalton Winery held an open house in Tel Aviv to which they invited restaurateurs, sommeliers, wine merchants and wine journalists, there to taste a selection of wines, some already on the market, some just making their way to market and others still in barrels. My annual visit to the winery is scheduled for 12 April, but this was a good opportunity to get in some sneak previews and to do several re-tastings.

One can comfortably report that winemaker Na'ama Mualem is doing a fine job, gaining obvious control over the vineyards and the winery and producing wines that in addition to being increasingly sophisticated remain excellent value for money. If there is a house style for many of the wines, that style can be described as soft but mouth-filling, generous and giving, round and without sharp edges, and a discerning hand in the use of oak. I shall go into more detailed notes about the winery after my visit but following are my tasting notes from the event.

Best
Rogov

The Whites and Rose Wines

Dalton, Chardonnay, Reserve, 2006:Light golden straw in color, showing tantalizing hints of light but spicy oak, and opening nicely to show grapefruit, orange and apricot fruits, those backed up by good natural acidity to keep the wine both sophisticated and lively. Drink now-2008. Score 89. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Viognier, Reserve, 2006: Light golden in color, having spent only 4 months in oak to maintain fresh aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, showing aromatic on the nose and with an appealing array of white peaches, apricots and a distinct floral character, those backed up by hints of caramel and, on the long finish a note of cinnamon. Crisp and satisfying. Drink now-2008. Score 89. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Rose, 2006: A rich, fruity and aromatic rose made from a blend of 95% Cabernet Sauignon and 5% Merlot. In color somewhere between rose-petal pink and cherry-red wine and showing strawberry, raspberry and dried cherry flavors. Half dry but with sweetness well balanced by acidity, a refreshing and pleasant wine for sipping on its own or with food. Drink now. Score 87. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Canaan, White, 2006: Light golden straw in color, light- to medium bodied, this semi-dry blend of70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay, shows appealing citrus and tropical fruits, the sweetness matched nicely by lively acidity. Drink now. Score 84.K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

The Red Wines

Dalton, Merlot, Single Vineyard, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Supple, rich and generous. Aged in oak for 16 months, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and fine balancing acidity to add liveliness to the blueberry, currant fruits, those supported nicely by hints of spice and mint that run through to the long finish. Ripe, round and polished. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 91-92. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Merlot, Reserve, 2004: Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a moderate impact of having spent 14 months in oak, those in fine balance with acidity and fruits. On the nose and palate, generous red and black berries and near-ripe red plums on a light tobacco and herbal background. Look as well for an appealing hint of vanilla that creeps in on the finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Shiraz, Reserve, 2004: Full-bodied and concentrated withl soft tannins and generous but not-at-all overpowering sweet cedar and spices from the barriques in which it aged. Aromas and flavors here open with raspberries, go on to cherries and berries, red plums, pepper and an attractive earthiness. Generous ad long. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2008-2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium-to full-bodied with a layer of spicy and toasty wood to show for its 18 months in oak, but that, moderately-soft tannins and acidity coming together nicely in balance and structure. On the nose and palate blackberries, currants and a hint of purple plums, those complemented nicely by hints of spices and on the long finish lightly minted dark chocolate. Best from 2008-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Syrah, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Nearly black in color but a wine of remarkable elegance. Aromatic, with spicy and floral scents on first attack, those yielding to aromas and flavors of berries, and plums, all backed up by hints of white pepper, and, on the long finish surprising hints of peaches and apricots. On the long finish generous fruits and refreshing acidity. Best from release-2010, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Merlot, Dalton Estate, 2005: Dark royal purple in color, medium-bodied and with firm tannins matched nicely by vanilla and cloves from the French oak barrqiues in which it developed. A vibrant and lively young red with currant, raspberry and plum aromas and flavors matched nicely by a hint of exotic spices that run throughout. Long and generous. Drink now or in the next year or so.. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Shiraz, Dalton Estate, 2005: Dark, almost inky garnet towards black in color, medium-bodied, with soft but mouthcoating tannins balanced nicely by hint of vanilla and spices from the American oak in which it aged for 10 months. On the nose and palate, appealing cherry, plum and berry fruits, those matched nicely by undertones of earthiness, cardamom and white pepper. Ripe, round and generous. Drink now-2009. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Barbera, Dalton Estate, 2005: Made from grapes harvested at the heights of Mount Meron (about 750 meters above sea level), fermented in stainless steel before being transferred to one and two year old barriques for 10 months in order to maintain the fruitiness and typicity of the variety. Royal purple in color, with generous acidity, soft tannins and moderate wood influences, those well in balance with fruits, opening with wild berries and spring flowers, those going on to cassis, blackberries and a nice hint of licorice. Round, soft and satisfying. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 88. (Re-tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Zinfandel, 2005: Made from grapes selected from the Safsufa Vineyard on Meron Mountain, this dark royal purple wine spent 12 months in new American oak. Full-bodied, with generous near-sweet tannins and smoky and vanilla oak, opens on the palate to reveal black cherry, raspberry and plum fruits, those backed up nicey by hints of chocolate, vanilla and espresso coffee. A generous and mouth-filling finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Alma, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Garnet towards purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Merlot spent 16 months in French oak. On the nose and palate blackberries, purple plums and a teasing hint of bitter oranges, the fruits backed up nicely by Oriental spices. Medium- to full-bodied, with still firm tannins, spicy oak and acidity in fine balance. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)

Dalton, Canaan, Red, 2006: Soft and round, medium-bodied, with gentle tannins, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot (70%, 10% and 20% respectively) . Among the forward fruits that present themselves – cherries, plums and raspberries, those matched nicely by a spicy note that runs through. Not complex but quite pleasant. Drink now or in the next year.Score 85. K (Tasted 26 Feb 2007)