The morning ,Thursday 22 Mar 2007, was devoted to tastings at Domaine du Castel. I am quite certain that every Israeli who takes part in this forum knows Castel. For those out of the country who are not yet familiar with this winery, Castel released its first wines – a mere 600 bottles - from the 1992 vintage. The winery is now producing about 100,000 bottles annually. More important, from their first releases the winery has been recognized as one of the very best in Israel. Some say that the red wines are distinctly Bordeaux in style. I, on the other hand, have always said (and owner-winemaker Eli Ben Zaken has not always agreed with me) that the wines have a soul that falls somewhere between Bordeaux, Tuscany and the Judean Hills.

Ben Zaken, now working with his son Ariel, has consistently made some of the very best wines in the country. The physically beautiful winery, with its exquisitely desiged chai (barrel room) holding more than 500 barriques, is located on Moshav Ramat Raziel in the Jerusalem Mountains. The winery relies entirely on grapes grown in the area of the winery, mostly in their own vineyards, others in vineyards under their full supervision. Grape varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Chardonnay.

Following are my tasting notes. Three of these wines are now on pre-release sale at the winery, the 2004 Grand Vin Castel, and the 2005 "C" Chardonnay and Petit Castel. The first of those is priced at NIS 2222 for a case of 12, the "C" for NIS per case; and the Petit Castel for NIS 1188 per case. Further information and an order form can be obtained by phoning Keren at the winey (02 5342249) or by sending an email to keren@castel.co.il An order form may also be requested by fax to 02 5700995. Once the wines reach the stores prices will increase by 15-20%.

My thanks to Eli Ben Zaken and his staff for a fine tasting and for their courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov

Castel, Grand Vin 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A tentative blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the balance of Petit Verdot and Malbec. Firm, solid and concentrated, dark ruby, full-bodied and opening to show intense aromas and flavors of berries, black cherries, currants and bitter chocolate, those caressing and generous and, on the long finish a hint of crystallized fruits. Dense, near-sweet and remarkably rich and finishes with gripping and mouth-filling length. Muscular but gentle, intense but elegant. Don't be surprised if this one calls to mind some of the better wines of the Medoc. Best starting in 2010. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Tasted 22 Mar 2007)

Castel, Grand Vin, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Medium dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with once searing tannins now settling down and showing admirable structure and balance. On the nose concentrated currant blackberry and plum fruits, those supported by spicy wood, Mediterranean herbs and, on the long finish light hints of anise and citrus peel. Approachable early but best from 2009-2013, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Re-tasted 22 Mar 2007)

Castel, Grand Vin, 2004: Showing every bit as well now as at barrel tastings. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc coming together as a remarkably satisfying whole. Dark garnet towards inky black , full-bodied, with deep and still firm tannins integrating nicely with smoky and spicy wood and fruits. Opens with blackberries and chocolate, those yielding to currants and raspberries and finally to an array of chocolate, licorice and tobacco that play on the palate. Long, generous and elegant. Approachable now but best 2008-2012, perhaps longer. One of Castel's very best. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 22 Mar 2007)

Castel, Petit Castel, 2005: A blend primarily of Merlot, that supplemented by Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in oak for 16 months appealing dark red-ruby, aromatic and opening with red berries and spices those going on to black cherries, licorice and chocolate, those blossoming on the palate to reveal hints of licorice and a light floral note. Generous and with a tantalizing hint of sweetness on the long finish. Castel's second wine but with no need to take second place. Best 2008-2011. Score 91. K (Tasted 22 Mar 2007)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Bright gold in color, with yeasty and nutty aromas complementing tropical fruits, ripe apple and a crème brulee sensation, all reflecting the wine's 12 months in French oak with a gentle hand. A rich, full, lightly buttery white, with tantalizing spicy notes and fine balance and length. A good candidate for cellaring. Best stating in 2008. Score 92. K (Tasted 22 Mar 2007)

Castel, "C", Chardonnay, 2005: Bright golden, full-bodied and concentrated, perhaps the most Burgundy-like wine of the winery but still with their own signature of a light but not imposing buttery and spicy sensations. As at barrel tastings, rich, complex and opulent, with multiple players of cigrus, figs, pears, summer fruits and toasty oak, all opening beautifully on the palate. Finesse and elegance are the key-words here. Approachable now but best 2008-2011. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 22 Mary 2007)

Component Tastings

Also tasted were a variety of components, those all still in barrels, none destined as varietal releases but all bound for blending. Following are a few hints from those tastings (more formal tasting notes will await a separate article that I will be writing in the near future)

Malhec, 2006: Garnet towards purple, full bodied and earthy, showing berries, purple plums and soft tannins integrating well. Round and satisfying.

Malbec 2005: Super-dark, almost inky black, soft but chewy tannins, opening to show red and black fruits, generous chocolate and a good hint of licorice. Medium-to full-bodied, round and mouthcoating.

Cabernet Franc, 2006: Dusty oak dominates at first but opens nicely to show medium- to full-bodied, with soft but mouth-coating tannins and generous black fruits, those backed up nicely by light herbal, earthy sensations.

Merlot, 2006 – Sample 1: Dark garnet towards royal purple, on the nose plums and violets Soft, round, gently tannic with berry, black cherry and cassis fruits complemeted by light earthy, musky aromas and flavors.

Merlot, 2006 – Sample 2: Dark but bright ruby towards garnet, with silky tannins and opening to reveal red berries, cherries and cassis. Good acidity here and overall fine balance in a medium-bodied frame.

Petit Verdot, 2006: Inky purple, aromatic, with ripe cherry and cassis aromas and flavors, hints of licorice dusty wood and supple tannins, all with a generous spicy overlay. If I had to give a single descriptor to this wine aborning that would be "primal".

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 – Sample 1: Medium dark, full-bodied, garnet towards purple, gripping tannins, black fruits and vanilla

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 – Sample 2: Dark garnet towards purple, full-bodied, firm tannins just starting to yield, good black and red fruits, hints of cocoa and an appealing herbal overlay.

Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 – Sample 3: Almost inky purple in color, medium- to full-bodied, with soft but mouthcoating tannins, and light earthy and spicy overlays highlighting currant and blackberry fruits.

Cabernet Sauignon 2006 – Sample 4: Medium-dark ruby, medium- to full-bodied, with soft, near-sweet tannins, floral and sweet earthy aromas, and a fine array of black fruits opening to reveal light mushroom and olive hints.