Rogov's Tastes » Five Wineries in Golan Heights

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>> Rogov's Tastes » Five Wineries in Golan Heights - March 2007

Sunday (25 March, 2007) was devoted to visits to five small to medium –sized wineries located on the Golan Heights. My comments about the wineries and notes for the wines I tasted follow. My sincere thanks to each of the wineries that opened their doors to me and greeted me warmly. Special thanks to Israel Eshed, the CEO of Golan Tourism, who took care of logistics and accompanied me throughout the day.

My comments and tasting notes follow.

Best
Rogov

Odem Mountain

Founded by Michael Elfasi and his sons Adam and Yishay in 2003 and situated
in a recently constructed modern facility on Moshav Odem in the northern Golan Heights, the winery relies on grapes grown in its own vineyards, including one organic vineyard, as well as from other vineyards on the Golan and in the Upper Galilee. Currently producing wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz, the winery is considering future releases of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Production for 2003 was 6,500 bottles and for 2004, 2005 and 2006 about 30,000 in their top-of-the-line Alfasi and Reserve series, in the mid-range Nimrod and Odem Mountain series and under the label ‘Volcanic’ for wines made from organic grapes. The winery also produces one red and one white dessert wine.

Odem Mountain, Alfasi, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): An oak-aged blend, this year of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and unfolding on the palate to show a generous array of currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by hints of sweet herbs and green olives. Drink from release-2010. Score 89. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet-Merlot, Alfasi, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Best yet from the winery. An oak-aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot showing fine balance between still firm tannins and spicy wood, those yielding in the glass to reveal black fruits, sweet herbs and, on the long finish, hints of green olives and anise. A distinctly Mediterranean wine. Best 2008-2011. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Much as at barrel tastings a year ago. Deep garnet towards royal purple in color, medium to full-bodied, with generous soft tannins and spicy wood in good balance with blackberry, currant and cassis fruits and, on the moderately long finish hints of cedar and freshly cut herbs. Drink from release–2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 22 Mar 2007).

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2004: Dark garnet towards inky black in color, full-bodied, with soft tannins and a moderate oak influence, all in fine balance with blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those supported by hints of herbs and sweet cedar. Drink now-2009. Score 89. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, Reserve, 2004: Oak-aged for 15 months, almost inky-dark purple in color, medium-to full bodied, with generous but not dominating spicy wood. Opens to show wild beries, cassis, black cherries and appealing hints of chocolate that linger nicely. Generous and mouth-filling. Drink now. Score 88. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Reserve, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Deep ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy and vanilla-rich wood. On the nose and palate, berry, black cherry and cassis, those backed up by sweet herbs and a hint of anise. Moderately long and complex. Drink from release-2010. Score 89. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Nimrod, 2005: Dark cherry red towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied and reflecting its 10 months in oak with soft, mouth-coating tannins and hints of smoke. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries and black cherries, all lingering nicely. Drink now-2009. Score 87. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon, Volcanic, 2005: An unoaked blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot.. Garnet red, medium-bodied, softly tannic and generously fruity, this wine was made from organically grown grapes. On the nose and palate blackberry and currant fruits, a hint of wood and abundant acidity that makes the wine refreshing but someone one dimensional. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, Nimrod, 2005: Garnet towards purple in color, reflecting its 10 months in oak with gentle spicy and vanilla overlays and showing appealing berry and cassis fruits. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and with a moderately-long finish. Drink now. Score 87. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nimrod, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and generous but not overpowering oak. Currant, blackberry and plum fruits with a nice hint of dark chocolate on the finish. Drink now. Score 86. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and showing generous berry and black cherry fruits. A bit on the acidic side and thus somewhat one-dimensional. Drink from release. Tentative Score 83-85. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Merlot, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and gentle spicy oak influences. Look for aromas and flavors of blueberries, cranberries and cassis. Without complexities, a good quaffer. Drink from release-2009. Score 85. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Showing spicy, floral and earthy aromas and flavors on first attack, those opening to reveal currant, berry and black cherry fruits. A blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Syrah, finishing with appealing leathery and cigar-box hints. Drink from relese-2009. Score 86. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Odem Mountain, Volcanic, Chardonnay, 2006: Aged for 5 months in new French oak, light golden in color, with an aromatic nose and light wood influences. Opens in the glass to reveal citrus, pineapple and ripe melon fruits, those supported nicely by hints of flinty minerals. Drink now. Score 87. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter

Established in 2002 on Kibbutz Ein Zivan on the Golan Heights by Tal Pelter, who studied oenology and worked at several wineries in Australia, the winery plans to move soon to nearby Kibbutz Merom Golan. Drawing on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, Grenache, Merlot, Semillon and Chardonnay grapes from the Golan, the Upper Galilee and the Jerusalem Mountains, the winery, one of only four in the country to produce a sparkling wine, releases wines in two series: T-Selection and Pelter. Production from the 2002 vintage was about 4,000 bottles and current production is 30,000–35,000 bottles annually. Be there no question but that Pelter is one of the rising stars on the local wine scene.

Pelter, Shiraz, T-Selection, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark crimson in color, opening with a generous jolt of vanilla on the nose, this full-bodied, round and elegant wine shows a generous array of plum and currant fruits, freshly tanned leather and an appealing earthy-herbaceousness. Soft but gripping tannins here that linger well into the long finish. Elegance is the word. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T Selection, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Reflecting its development in new French oak for 14 months with spicy wood and mouth-coating tannins, both integrating nicely. Full-bodied, with a generous array of black fruits on first attack, those opening to reveal overlays of fresh Mediterranean herbs, and finally on the long finish, espresso coffee and dark chocolate and the barest but tantalizing hint of crushed raspberries. Best 2009-2013. Score 92. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Cabernet Franc, T-Selection, 2004: My barrel tasting note hold firmly: Dark purple towards black in color, lush and elegant with a rich array of ripe raspberry, plum and berry fruits, those matched nicely by herbal and chocolate aromas and flavors. Firm tannins, especially on the finish but with just the right levels of French oak influence and both balance and structure that bode well for the future. Best 2008–2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007).

Pelter, Shiraz-Grenache, T Selection, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Dark garnet towards inky purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins integrating nicely but needing time. Reflecting its 14 months in French barriques with spicy cedar, this blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Grenache, shows concentrated purple plum, blackberry and citrus peel notes, those on a tantalizing background of what at one moment seems to be sweet herbs and the next turns to licorice. Drink from release-2014. Score 92. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Deep ruby towards garnet, full-bodiied, with a generous backbone of wood and tannins, those integrating nicely. On the nose and palate blackcurrants, blackberries, raspberries and cherries, those supported by appealing earthy and herbal notes. Deep, long and smooth. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Aged in American oak for 18 months, this blend of 50% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz shows a medium-dark garnet color, a strong acidic backbone and appealing spices and vanilla from the wood, none of which hold back layers of blackberry, cherry, herbal and earthy aromas and flavors. Good concentration, ripeness and smoothness lead to a long and generous finish. Drink now–2012. Score 91. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Trio, 2005: A blend this year of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Medium- to full-bodied, reflecting its 14 months in oak with moderate smoky, almost musky aromas and soft tannins integrating nicely. Opens to show a tempting array of cassis, berry and black cherry fruits, those leading to a long, lightly spicy finish. Best 2008-2012. Score 91. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Chardonnay, 2006: Light- to medium-bodied and unoaked, showing fine acidity to keep the wine lively. Light golden straw in color, aromatic and showing crisp peach, citrus and flinty minerals. A delightful match to oysters. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 54. Score 89 (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Sauvignon Blanc, 2006: Light damp straw in color, unoaked and with fine balancing acidity to set off fresh and refreshing aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, white peaches, green apples, and, as in last year's release, a hint of celery. Nothing complex here but a wine that enchants. Drink now or in the next year or so. NIS 65. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Semillon, 2006: Fermented partly in stainless steel and partlyl in barriques for three months. Straw colored, opening with citrus peel and pear aromas and flavors, those going to melon and green apples, all with an appealing spicy overlay. Drink now-2009. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Quarto, Limited Edition, 2005: A special label release for Tel Aviv's Orca restaurant. A rich Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Csbernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Deep royal purple in color, full-bodied, with still firm tannins just starting to settle down. Opens to show berry and cassis fruits those on a lightly spicy background and with a long red fruit finish. Best 2009-2012. Score 90. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Pelter, Blanc de Blanc Brut, n.v.: A non-vintage wine but with Chardonnay grapes entirely from the 2003 vintage. Gentle yeast and hints of nicely toasted white bread with sharp bubbles that go on and on. Fresh, aromatic, well focused and intense, with grapefruit and lime fruits backed up by hints of cloves, ginger and roasted nuts. Drink now–2010. Score 90. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan

Founded in 1998 by Yo’av Levy and Assaf Kedem on Moshav Kidmat Tsvi in the Golan Heights, the first facility of this winery was located in a cow shed and initial production from that vintage year was 1,800 bottles. Today, entirely under the auspices of Levy, the winery is currently producing about 25,000 bottles annually, all from grapes grown in their own vineyards on the Golan Heights, and target production is 50,000. Until 2005 the winery released only Cabernet Sauvignon wines and will be releasing their first Merlot from the 2006 vintage. The wines are in two series: Reserve and Bazelet Hagolan, the first aged in oak for about 20 months, the second for 8–10 months. Since the 2004 vintage production has been kosher.

Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, full-bodied and deeply aromatic with still firm tannins in fine balance with wood and fruits. On the nose and palate spicy blackberry, currant and citrus peel, and, on the long finish, a generous hint of espresso coffee. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Rich, ripe, smooth, generous and well-balanced with currant, berry and plum flavors coming together with near-sweet tannins and tempting smoky oak. Best 2008–2012. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet towards royal purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins in fine balance with acidity, spicy wood and fruits. On first attack, blackcurrants and black licorice, those followed by wild berries, earthy minerals and Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re0tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2003: Full-bodied, with tannins on the ascendant and holding the wine back somewhat. Opens slowly to reveal currants, berries, orange peel, Oriental spices and pepper, all leading to a near-sweet and lightly oaky finish. Drink now-2009. Score 89. (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Medium- to full-bodied, with chunky country-style tannins and a hint of sweet cedar wood that runs through. Opens to show traditional Cabernet currant and blackberry fruits, those matched by hints of light earthiness and sweet herbs. Best from release. Tentatie Score 86-88 K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Youthful garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and showing a pleasing array of currant, blackberry, vanilla and, on the long finish minerals and a layer of toasty oak. Spoiled somewhat by a rising musky aroma that comes in from mid-palate. Drink now. Score 85. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes, 25 Mar 2007)

Bazelet Hagolan, Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Youthful royal purple in color, medium- to full-bodied with near sweet tannins and lightly spicy oak highlighting plum and currant fruits. In the background light toasty bread and smoked meat that linger nicely. Drink from release. Tentative score 85-87. (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan

Founded by Uri Rapp and Emmanuel Dassa and located on the southern Golan Heights, with their first releases from the 2004 vintage, the winery produces kosher wines that are fully organic and to date are based entirely on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes raised in its own vineyards. Current releases in two series, Eitan and Bashan are 10,000-15,000 bottles annually, and tentative plans are to grow to production of 50,000-100,000 bottles.

Bashan, Merlot, Eitan, 2005: Dark ruby towards garnet in color, reflecting 16 months in oak with firm tannins and spicy wood, those yielding in the glass to show black fruits, eucalyptus and black olives all coming to a medium-long finish. Score 86. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, Eitan, 2005: A dark garnet blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, developed in oak for 14 months. Opens with a strong medicinal aroma and although that fades somewhat after a while in the glass it remains difficult to get to the black fruits that are struggling to get through. Score 83. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007).

Bashan, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, Nave, 2005: A dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot that spent 14 months in oak casks. Opens with a light bottle stink but that passes quickly to reveal a clean, well-balanced wine with soft tannins and appealing currant, berry and eucalyptus aromas and flavors. Not complex but quite appealing. Score 86. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Eitan, 2005: Living nicely up to its barrel tasting promise. Medium to full-bodied, this organic wine shows good balance between sweet oak, generous yeasts and on the nose and palate appealing ripe and spicy black fruits. Best from 2008. Score 88. K (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: Dark garnet, reflecting its 16 month in oak with pepper, vanilla and soft but mouth-coating tannins. On the nose and palate generous blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, those finishing moderately long with hints of chocolate and Mediterranean herbs. Drink now-2008. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Eitan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): The best yet from this small winery. Dark royal purple and firmly tannic at this time but showing fine balance and structure that bode well for the future A well focused Cabernet, with currant and plum fruits highlighted nicely by mineral and herbal notes and, on the moderately-long finish a nice hint of toasty oak. Drink from release. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, with silky tannins integrating nicely and showing intense plum, berry and herbal aromas and flavors. Not complex but very appealing. Drink from release. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Bashan, Merlot, Eitan, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): A lovely wine. Garnet towards royal purple in color, medium-bodied with soft tannins and showing generous berry, black cherry and milk chocolate aromas and flavors. A caressing if not long finish. Drink from release-2009. Tentative Score 86-88. K (Tasted 25 Mar 2007)

Maor

Established by Danny Maor on Moshav Ramot on the Golan Heights, the winery’s first release was of 3,200 bottles from the 2003 vintage. Current production is about 5,000 bottles annually, drawing on grapes from the Golan Heights and the Upper Galilee, those including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc.

Maor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Blended with 15% of Merlot and 3% of Cabernet Franc, this generously oaked, dark garnet wine shows aromatic and tempting. Soft tannins give the wine a round, well-balanced personality, that flushed out by traditional currant, berry, black cherry and light herbal aromas and flavors. On the long finish look for a hint of freshly roasted coffee. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Ma'or, Cabernet Sauvignon, Classic, 2004: Blended with a small amount of Merlot, deep ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Look for aromas and flavors of raspberries, red plums and cranberries, those supported nicely by hints of freshly turned earth and green olives. Drink now-2009. Score 88. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet in color, medium to full-bodied, with generous but not dominating wood and firm tannins well balanced by fruits and acidity. On the nose and palate currants, wild berries and vanilla, all lingering nicely. Drink now–2008. Score 87. (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Deep garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied and concentrated, with rather firm tannins and a somewhat heavy hand with the oak, the wine shows aromas and flavors of very ripe plums and berries as well as hints of sweet herbs, mocha and chocolate in the background. Drink now. Score 85. (Re-tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Syrah, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet towards royal purple in color, with generous but soft tannins and hints of spicy wood. Well balanced and showing appealing red plum, cassis, herbal and chocolate aromas and flavors, all leading to a generous and mouth-coating finish. Best 2008-2011. Tentative Score 87-89. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Syrah, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Dark garnet in color, with solid but yielding tannins and spicy oak those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Opens to show plum, currant, tar, tobacco and mineral notes, all of which continue through a long and chocolate tinted finish. Best yet from the winery. Drink from 2008. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied with soft tannins, fine concentration and a complex array of black and red fruits, those complemented by generous hints of Mediterranean herbs and, on the long finish, an appealing hint of freshly unearthed mushrooms. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)

Maor, Syrah-Merlot, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Deep purple towards inky black in color, firm and well focused and capturing the traditional herbaceousness of Merlot and the minty, berry and meaty flavors of Syrah, all coming together in a concentrated but soft and round manner. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 27 Mar 2007)