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| >> Rogov's Tastes » Flam - January 2008 | |
On Wednesday, 2 January 2008 I made my way to the Flam Winery in the Jerusalem Hills, there to do barrel tastings, advance-tastings and several re-tastings. For those who may recall one of the "hot rumors" of some years ago, I must mention that the winery did not send a chauffer-driven stretch-limousine to pick me up and did not fly in a French chef to prepare lunch for me. After the tasting though we did munch in the winery on good foccaccia and some fine cheeses. And, although the winery is still missing a vital piece of equipment (that is to say, an espresso machine) the eatery next to the winery did supply espresso to follow the cheeses. On the completely positive side, the company of Golan, Gilad and Israel Flam was, as always, most pleasant and, on the even better side, these people know how and continue to make excellent wines. By the way – prices are noted for those wines currently on the market. My tasting notes follow. Best Flam, Syrah, 2007 (Barrel Sample): Still in its infancy and looking forward to a total of about 10 months in oak but already showing dark garnet with purple reflections, medium- to full-bodied with round, gently caressing tannins an a generously fruity personality. Look for raspberries and red currants on a lightly meaty and spicy background, all lingering nicely on the palate. Drink from release-2010. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2007 (Tank Sample): Not yet in barriques but already showing dark garnet towards royal purple in color. Full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and fine balancing acidity to highlight currant, wild red and black berries, those supported nicely by hints of spices, bitter-sweet chocolate and, on the long finish a hint of cherry liqueur. Best starting in 2010. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost inky-garnet in color, full-bodied, with soft tannins that caress nicely. Still in its extreme youth but already showing round and caressing, with clean currant, blackberry and citrus peel notes on first attack, those yielding to a light undercurrent of Mediterranean herbs. Long and generous. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 91-93. (Tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Superieure, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (86% and 14% respectively),oak-aged for 12 months in French and American oak. Medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins integrating nicely and with a nice "bite" of spicy wood. Concentrated on the palate, showing purple plum, blackberry and raspberry fruits, those supported by tantalizing hints of leather and smoked meat Drink from release-2011, perhaps longer. Score 91. (Tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Now in oak for 10 months and destined to remain there for several more months, this blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Petit Verdot is showing simultaneously intense and elegant. Opens with spicy wood and black fruits on the nose, those yielding comfortably in the glass to show blueberry and raspberry fruits with overlays of mocha, orange-peel and near-sweet cedar. Soft, mouth-coating tannins, a gentle hand with the wood, good balancing acidity and fine structure bode well for an elegant future. Approachable young but best from 2010-2014, perhaps longer. Tentative Score 92-94. (Re-tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): 86% Cabernet Sauvignon blended with 12% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, now in oak for 12 months and destined for aging several more months. Dark royal purple, full-bodied, with soft near-sweet tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Intense and multi-layered, opening with cherries and raspberries, those going on to show currants and blackberries and all on a gentle background of brown spices. Long and generous, with the tannins rising nicely on the finish. Best 2010-2014. Tentative Score 92-94. (Re-tasted 2 Jan 2008) Flam, Classico, 2006: My most recent tasting note holds firmly Aged in French and American oak for 6 months, this full-bodied, softly tannic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in equal parts shows a generous array of currant, berry and black cherry fruits on a background of lightly bitter Mediterranean herbs. Generous and mouth-filling. Drink now–2010. Flam, Superiore, 2005: A blend of 81% Syrah and 19% Cabernet Sauvignon. After 12 months in oak, this dark ruby-red, medium to full-bodied wine shows soft, fine-grained tannins and lively almost jammy cherry, raspberry and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of sweet cedar and spring flowers. Drink now–2010. Flam, Merlot, Reserve, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, medium to full-bodied, reflecting its 18 months in oak with soft, mouth-coating tannins and spicy wood. Look for a tempting light earthiness that supports blackberries, currants, and a touch of spiciness that weaves its way through the wine and then lingers nicely on a long, elegant finish. Drink now–2012. Flam, Cabernet Sauignon, Reserve, 2005: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Blended with 6% each of Merlot and Petite Verdot and oak-aged for 18 months, this deep garnet, full-bodied red’s chewy tannins are now integrating nicely but still showing generous wood. On the nose and palate a complex and elegant array of blackcurrant, black cherry, anise and Mediterranean herbs and on the long finish hints of vanilla and sage. Firm but yielding and lingering long on the palate. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009–2013. Score 93. A bit later on, together with bread and cheese: Flam, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2000: Drinking very nicely indeed at this stage. I rather like my most recent tasting note so that follows: Well focused, this deep purple, medium to full-bodied blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot spent 15 months in oak casks. A wine so deep you feel you can get lost in it, with flavors and aromas of red currants, ripe red fruit and delicious spices. Drink now–2009. Score 94. |
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