Tuesday, 12 February found me quite early in the morning making my way north to visit and do extensive tastings at the Golan Heights Winery. A pleasant breakfast and some technical but thoroughly interesting talk with senior winemaker Victor Shoenfeld about state-of-the-art vineyard (and sub-vineyard, down to blocks and even individual rows) control was followed by visits to several of the winery's vineyards and then back to the winery for tastings.

Reflecting the thorough professionalism of the winery, all but the sparkling wines had been opened about an hour before our arrival and completion of the pouring was taking place as we arrived and the tasting was set up in three "stations", each of those with three or four flights of wines. In addition to myself, the tasting was attended by CEO Shalom Blayer, Shoenfeld, the winemaking staff and several others of the professional staff of the winery. All in all 57 wines were tasted , those containing vertical re-tastings, advance tastings and barrel tastings. That may sound like a good many wines but at a winery of this size that is barely scratching the surface of all that is offered and all that is already in barrels for offerings in the future.

Being somewhat of a self-confessed romantic, I have to admit that there is something enchanting about sitting in a room with seven other people, all in all with more than 385 glasses set out, each waiting to be tasted and evaluated. And yes, the pulse still jumps a bit at such events and that for a combination of reasons most of which I sum up as "the aesthetic of wine". I will also confess that following completion of each of the three stations, I took a break for a cigarette.

Before my tasting notes three quick comments:

(1) The 2007 barrel tastings of red wines were tasted from components and the tasting notes are, as always in such cases, projections. Informed projections, but projections nevertheless.

(2) Some may note that I report not on the 57 wines tasted but only on 52. That is simply because two of those tasting notes are destined to appear first in the 2009 edition of my book and three are of experimental wines, the fate of which are yet to be determined by the winery. My guess is that some positive surprises await.

(3) Definitely worthy of note is that several of the vertical tastings of both reds and whites revealed that many of the wines re-tasted are showing even more cellar-worthy than originally predicted.

Enough…. My tasting notes follow. My sincere thanks to Victor, Shalom, the winemakers and the others that arranged the tasting, for their good company and for the tasting itself. Special thanks to Arnon for good company, fine conversation and a welcomed driving break for good espresso coffees on the way to the winery.

Rogov

Sparkling Wines

Golan Heights Winery, Blanc de Blancs, Yarden, 1999: Made by the traditional methode Champenoise, just yeasty enough to enchant, with rich citrus, peach and nectarine fruits and hints of spring flowers. Mineral-rich crispness, sharp, well-focused bubbles, a long mousse and a long and a tempting near-creamy finish. Drink now–2010. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Blanc de Blancs, Yarden, 2001: As I have written at earlier tastings, the best Blanc de Blancs to date from the winery. Made from Chardonnay grapes by the traditional methode Champenoise, this medium-bodied sparkling wine shows just the right balance between yeasty sour-dough bread, peaches, citrus and minerals. With a generous mousse and sharp, well-focused bubbles that go on and on, this crisp and sophisticated wine goes on to a long, mouth-filling finish. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Gewurztraminer

Golan Heights Winery, Gewurztraminer, Yarden, 2007: Golden straw in color, off-dry, medium-bodied, with appealing spicy and floral notes running through, those including white pepper, anise and cinnamon, a lovely wine with tempting summer and litchi fruits. On the long finish hints of rose petals and grapefruit peel. Drink now-2010. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Viognier

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2006 (Advance Tasting): As during earlier tastings, this release reminds me of the white wines of Condrieu and shows traditional a thoroughly traditional Viognier personality. Following an aromatic and floral nose, flavors and aromas of ripe Anjou pears, peaches, spring flowers and minerals along with hints of citrus. Lively, clean, fresh and long, the best local Viognier to date. Drink now-2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Viognier, Yarden, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Medium-bodied but gives the comfortable illusion of floating on the palate. Opens with citrus and light herbal and peach blossom notes, those going on to litchis, pears and papaya, all coming together in manners that are simultaneously lively and hedonistic but complex enough to give pause for thought. Long and generous. Drink from release-2011. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Chardonnay

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2002: As do all of the Chardonnay releases from this vineyard, this one continues to show its buttery-oak pattern. Maturing gracefully and showing a bright golden-straw color. Ripe and complex flavors of pears, tropical fruits, hazelnuts and spices opening on the palate to reveal flinty and floral overtones along with generous but well-integrated oak and a long, vanilla-cream finish. Drink now. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2004: Showing every bit as nicely as at earlier tastings. Rich and complex full-bodied and creamy, with pears, ripe apricots, citrus and mango fruits backed up by light spicy and mineral overtones. With its generous oak now in fine proportion the wine is drinking beautifully now and should cellar comfortably until 2010. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Showing very nicely indeed. Full-bodied, opening with floral and citrus, those going on to tropical fruits and figs, all set off by hints of smoky oak, ginger and, on the long finish ripe pears. Approachable and enjoyable now but best 2009-2012. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Full-bodied, opening with subtle aromas of figs, pears and apples, going on to show a generous dash of smoky, toasty oak and then blossoming forth with pineapple, citrus peel and minerals leading to a long finish that is simultaneously creamy and bright. Enjoyable now but best 2009-2013. Score 92. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Deep golden in color with orange and green reflections, opening with notes of grilled nuts and then going on to show pear, fig and pie crust aromas and flavors. Finishes with apple and pineapple pie notes. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Pinot Noir

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2002: Medium- to full-bodied, with its soft tannins and gentle wood influence now integrated nicely. The floral note that was once here has faded but the wine continues to show the red berries, cherries and light herbal, coffee and vanilla overtones of its youth. Drinking well but not for further cellaring. Drink up. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2004: Dark ruby towards garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins well integrated and showing a generous array of blackberry, plum and black cherry fruits, those supported very nicely by hints of pine nuts. On the generously fruity finish a tantalizing hint of anise. Drink now-2012. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): My second barrel tasting of this wine and my earlier note holds firmly: Intense ruby towards garnet, medium to full-bodied, with well-focused cherry fruits at the core, those opening to reveal plums, dark chocolate and espresso coffee, all leading to a long blackberry-rich finish. Generous, balanced, and long, with wood and tannins integrating nicely. Best from 2009. Tentative Score 90–92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Pinot Noir, Yarden, 2007 (Barrel tasting): Medium-bodied, supple, fragrant and graceful, with silky tannins and almost jammy blackberry and currant fruits on a background of white pepper. On the moderately-long finish, hints of sandalwood and black cherries. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Nebbiolo and Sangiovese

Golan Heights Winery, Nebbiolo, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Smooth and supple, with licorice, tar and plums on the nose, those needing a bit of time in the glass to part and reveal blackberry, strawberry and freshly picked porcini mushrooms. Complex for a young-vine wine and with a long chewy finish. Possibly a varietal release; possibly destined as a blending agent. Worthy of our attention. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2000: I had predicted the demise of this wine as long as three years ago and two years ago I advised "drink up". Truth is I thought never to taste this one again but taste it I did and to my surprise, although past its peak, still giving pleasure. A blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, still showing medium-bodied, with its soft tannins now fully integrated and continuing to show berry, cherry, sage and tobacco notes. Still alive and kicking but truly best to drink up any you might have on hand. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2001: Another wine well outliving its predicted drinking window, in fact, although not destined for further cellaring still drinking quite nicely indeed. Dark garnet, still showing ripe but firm tannins and appealing currant, plum, tobacco and sweet oak. Drink up. Score 86. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2002: Well, at least this one did not disappoint me. Following through on the "2002 curse" a very nice little wine in its youth but now definitely beyond its peak, the once generous black fruits fading, the chocolate turning just a bit overly bitter and a hint of not-really wanted caramel creeping in. Drink up. Original Score 87. Current Score 82. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla 2003: Dark garnet, medium-bodied, with soft tannins and gentle vanilla influences from the wood integrated nicel. Opens to show spicy berry, red plum, violet and red cherry aromas and flavors. Soft round and still youthful. Not complex but very appealing. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2004: Reflecting its 12 months in barriques with a gentle hand and with its now soft tannins settled in nicely, showing soft round and caressing. On the nose and palate black and red berries, black cherries, licorice and spring flowers and, on the comfortably long finish a hint of orange peel. Drink now-2009. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2005: Medium- to full-bodied, with chewy but gentle tannins coming together to show an appealing array of berry, minted chocolate and spiced tea. Drink now-2010.Long and caressing. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Aromas and flavors of raspberries, strawberries and cassis, those on a medium-bodied frame with soft tannins and showing appealing hints of spicy oak and sawdust, all leading to a fresh finish. Best from release-2010. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Sangiovese, Gamla, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, medium-bodied, with caressing tannins, a smooth, round wine with raspberry and blackberry aromas and flavors on a chocolate and mocha scented background, all lasting through the long and easy-going finish. Drink from release-2012. Tentative Score 88-90. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Merlot

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2003: Drinking beautifully now but with quite a future in front of it. Dark garnet, full-bodied, and with generous tannins but a well-polished wine showing a generous array of cherry, currant and berry fruits, those supported nicely by layers of Mediterranean herbs, vanilla and a gentle hand with smoky oak. On the long finish a tantalizing hint of green olives tip-toes in nicely. Drink now-2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2004: Dark garnet towards purple, medium to full-bodied, with tannins and wood integrating nicely and showing a generous array of berry, cassis and plum fruits, those supported by minerals, sweet cedarwood and, rising on the medium-long finish, an overlay of spices and tobacco. Drink now–2011, perhaps longer. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Inky dark garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and opening to show mineral, blackberry and raspberry aromas and flavors those supported by hints of licorice. Best 2009-2012. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Yarden, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): The most full-bodied Yarden Merlot in several years, with gripping but velvety smooth tannins and toasty oak. On first attack ripe raspberries and currants, those parting to make way for light herbal and earthy notes and finally plums and Oriental spices, all culminating in a long mineral-rich finish. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2001: Deeply aromatic, reflecting its 14 months in mostly new French barrels with generous spicy oak, that in harmony with ample but seamless tannins, all coming together in a dense but plush and luxurious wine. Full-bodied, showing appealing aromas and flavors that open in layer after layer, those including blackberries, near-jammy plums, chocolate, fresh herbs and, on the long finish, a rising hint of Oriental spices all with a light herbal bitteness, that offset comfortably by a hint of orange peel. Drink now–2014. Score 94. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery Merlot, Ortal Vineyard, Yarden, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Dark ruby towards garnet, full-bodied, with once firm tannins and spicy wood integrating nicely now. Opens to reveal a tempting array of blackberry, raspberry, plum and cassis fruits, those supported nicely by hints of smoky cedar wood and licorice, all leading to a gently spicy and notably long finish. Simultaneously complex, concentrated and elegant. Approachable on release but best 2009-2015. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Sha'al Vineyard, Yarden, 2005 (Barrel Tasting): Rich and concentrated, a powerhouse at this time waiting for its elements to come together. Already showing fine balance between still gripping tannins and wood with bold aromas and flavors of plum, currant, blackberry, licorice and spices all rising to a long tannic and mineral-rich finish. Approachable from release but best from 2009-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Merlot, Tel Faraj Vineyard, Yarden, 2005: Full bodied, with caressingly soft tannins and an abundance of blackberry, violet and lightly toasted oak on first attack, those opening to raspberries, mocha and sweet cedar, all building to a long and succulent finish. Best 2009-2014. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Syrah

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2003: Developing beautifully. Dark garnet in color, with soft, mouth-coating tannins and an appealing overlay of spicy wood reflecting its 18 months in oak. Opens with blackberry, purple plums and chocolate notes, those yielding to near-jammy raspberries, hints of earthy minerals and a note of peach pit. Long and generous with hints of spring flowers on the long finish. Drink now-2013. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Medium-dark ruby towards garnet, with firm tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely. Shows a generous array of near-jammy raspberries, blackberries, black cherries and plums, those supported nicely by hints of spices and herbs and a hint of polished leather. Drink from release-2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Garnet, but so dark that one might describe it as inky. Full-bodied, with spicy oak and generous soft tannins, showing fine structure and balance. Opens with raspberry and red currant notes, those going on to show generous hints of black pepper, anise and wild berries all coming to a long and generous chocolate and smoky finish. Best 2009-2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Developing nicely since my last barrel tasting (about a year ago). Full-bodied with firm tannins, tangy acidity and spicy wood integrating nicely. Opens to reveal a complex array of plum, currant, and berry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of earthy minerals, and generously peppered game meat with tannins and fruits rising comfortably on the long finish. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Yarden, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Still tightly wound and intense but showing good balance and structure that bode well for the future. On the nose and palate almost creamy oak and rich spicy, peppery and meaty overlays on supple blackberries blueberries and dried currants. Needs time to show its luxurious nature. Best from 2010-2015. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Syrah, Ortal Vineyard, 2004: Moderately dark ruby, full-bodied, with tannins integrating nicely with spicy wood. Opens with a burst of almost jammy aromas of raspberries and kirsch liqueur, those yielding beautifully to blackberry, cherry and plum fruits. In the background generous hints of anise and Oriental spices and a hint of freshly tanned leather. Best 2009–2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Cabernet Sauvignon

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2000: Full-bodied, still youthful, with firm tannins and generous oak well balanced by currants, blackberries and spicy cedar wood those opening to plums and black cherries, all matched nicely with vanilla and an appealing herbal overlay followed by a long finish. Drink now–2011. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2001: Full-bodied with finely tuned balance between wood, tannins and fruits. Showing plum, wild berry and spicy currant fruits, and reflecting its 18 months in oak with appealing overlays of vanilla, cedar, tobacco and cocoa. Drink now–2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2002: Dark garnet towards royal-purple, full-bodied, with firm tannins and spicy oak yielding nicely to reveal flavors and aromas of red currants, cherries and berries on first attack, those giving way to layers of sweet cedar, vanilla, leather and, on the long finish, a hint of anise. Rich, generous and elegant. Drink now–2012. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2003: My earlier tasting note holds firmly: Aged in French oak for 18 months and showing generous but gentle wood influence. Soft mouth-coating tannins support generous blackberry, back cherry and plum fruits and, on the long finish, hints of Oriental spices and a light herbal-tobacco sensation. Best 2009–2015. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2004: A wine that outshines its vintage year. Deep, dark, and brooding. Generous smoky oak and tannins now settling down to reveal rich currant, cherry, blackberry and plum fruits along with hints of asphalt, earthiness and Mediterranean herbs all leading to a generous and spicy finish. Drink now–2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2005 (Advance Tasting): Brooding dark ruby-red, full-bodied, with near-sweet tannins and spicy oak wrapped around black currants, berries, spices and a hint of dark chocolate. Look as well for enchanting hints of citrus peel and vanilla on the long finish. Fine balance and structure bode well for the future. Best 2010–2018. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2006 (Barrel Tasting): Full-bodied, with soft tannins and spicy oak integrating nicely. On the nose and palate ripe black and red berries and currants on a background of spicy oak, all touched with hints of spices, vanilla and a light mineral-earthy overtones. Best 2010-2015. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarden, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Tasted from components but already showing a clean, fresh mineral note that runs through. Full- to medium-bodied, with soft, nicely integrating tannins and gentle hints of sweet-and-spicy wood, opens to reveal fine currant and berry fruits. Best from 2010. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2001: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet-purple, full-bodied, with finely-tuned balance between generous well-integrated tannins and judicious oak, this exquisite wine shows complex tiers of aromas and flavors of red currants, berries, and spices on the first attack, those opening to include light earthy and herbal overlays. Plush and opulent, with a long, complex finish. Among the best ever made in Israel. Drink now–2013. Score 95. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2003: Intensely dark ruby towards royal purple, full-bodied, with caressing tannins and a moderate oak influence. Opens with blackcurrants, blackberries and minerals, goes to meaty, earthy and herbal aromas and flavors, and then to spices and a long and elegant fruity finish. Firmly structured with excellent grip and complexity. Best 2010–2020. Score 95. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Cabernet Sauvignon, Elrom Vineyard, 2004 (Advance Tasting): God, the gods, the vintners and the winemakers must be doing something right at the Elrom Vineyard which seems to be giving usconsistently exquisite Cabernet Sauvignon. Full-bodied, with still firm tannins and spicy wood well on the way to integrating and already showing elegance and finesse. Look for layer after layer of currant, blackberry and wild berry fruits, those supported beautifully by notes of cedar, sage and tar, all leading to a near-sweet fruity finish that lingers on and on. Approachable now but best 2010-2016. Score 94. K (Tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Katzrin

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2000: A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Showing beautifully now, its blackberry, cherry and currant fruits supported by spicy oak, notes of cigar tobacco and hints of freshly turned earth. Dense, deep and intense, with finely tuned balance and structure, a simultaneously bold and elegant wine. Drinking very well now but not yet at its peak. Best 2009-2015, perhaps longer. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery Katzrin, 2003: Dark garnet, a full-bodied blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, with gently mouth-coating tannins and smoky oak integrating nicely. Shows layers of black currant, black cherry and berry fruits, those yielding and coming together with peppery and herbal aromas and flavors culminating in a long blueberry and white chocolate finish. Best 2010–2018. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008)

Golan Heights Winery, Katzrin, 2004 (Advance Tasting): Showing every bit as well as during barrel tastings. Dark garnet towards royal purple, with orange and violet reflections. Shows generous oak and still firm tannins, those in fine proportion and well balanced by blackberry, blackcurrant and cherry fruits, those on a background of white pepper, Mediterranean herbs and, on the long and generous finish hints of vanilla and peppermint. Best 2009-2016. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 12 Feb 2008) *

*Scheduled for release approximately December, 2008